Mopar Muscle Association UK

Google says 2-5 years shelf life for unopened engine oil, 6-8 for synthetic. Usual caveats about storage temperature etc.

First job is to replicate the original mount with an adaptor made of 1/8” ally plate. This picks up the pedal box mounts and additional bracing points and allows me to fit a manual master cylinder in the correct location. Mopar master cylinders have pipe exits to the right, straight into the valve ...

I hate American power brakes anyway but when it’s a monstrosity like this blocking access to everything on this side of the engine it was on my to do list. Whilst struggling to work around it the front brake pipe broke off so it went to the top of the list…

Highly unlikely it has been internally balanced, it would take a load of Mallory metal and would be very costly. Weighted flexplates are avilable to work with a 318 torque convertor but make sure you know if its a 904 or 727 you are bolting it to as they use different diameters.

My 360 had a damper like this. The style Dave has highlighted is another possibility.

I made a new license plate bracket suitably ventilated so as not to restrict airflow to the long Derale cooler.

I have a 2800 stall convertor to fit so a bit of additional transmission cooling isn’t a bad idea. I don’t want the trans running stone cold either so the fluid goes trough the standard cooler in the bottom of the rad and then through an auxiliary cooler mounted out front. 5/16” Kunifer for the hard ...

Bit of research Today showed Hayden make a low profile fan clutch for applications like this, only 2.77” tall that’ll do nicely. On order.
https://www.haydenauto.com/en/products/ ... fan-clutch

Rad can’t move any further forward without cutting the front panel, I’ll only do that as a last resort but it is an option.

Champion 3 core rad installed, I like these as they are bolt in, stock hoses and shrouds fit and they are fully welded and are a sensible price. Only downside in my case is I need about 1/2” more clearance to fit a viscous fan, I should be able to rework the mounts to shift the engine back a bit ...

All well and good Dave but stock pumps have 5 1/6” connections, competition versions are 3/8”, I believe the extra diameter is necessary for sufficient flow.

Around the time of the pandemic Carter pumps were nowhere to be had for many months. When they became avilable again they had suddenly lept up in price,it’s the world we live in now. Expensive as they are it’s still the most cost effective solution.

4 hole spacer on a dual plane intake. Think about this one, unless you are planning 500hp and 10 second quarter mile passes you really don’t need an electric pump. 3/8” sender and line, Carter competition or Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump with a small Holley regulator will get the job done, is ...

People in general are far less interested in old stuff these days, life has changed. Prices are totally driven by demand and if demand drops off it’s entirely possible you’ll see that 5k Charger before you’re too old to drive it. I’ve never looked at these cars as investments and I’ve probably lost ...

You would need to look at what your chosen EFI system needed for fuel delivery, it might also want a return line. Some systems need a swirl pot and an in tank pump. When I looked at it it all gets very expensive and I really don’t see the benefit over a good carb and a decent tune up, your choice.