MilesnMiles wrote:Moss,it's had a cheap $200 spray ober at some point, plus original paint and bare metal. I've tried polishing and cutting to no avail, so Gibbs it is
1973 Plymouth Roadrunner
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Thought I should update the build details on my car as the tend to be littered about the site on different threads.
Edited March 2017
Motor
1972 340 block +30
Eagle rotating system
Mahle forged pistons 10 1
Xe268 comp cam
RHS/INDY cylinder heads machined and ported from IMM Engines
Air gap inlet
Mopar Lecce ignition
TTI headers and dual exhaust with Dynomax boxes
650 Speed Demon carb with annular boosters
2,400 JW convertor
727 Dunc built with TF2 shift kit, new prop and UJs
489 rear open with 3.23 gears
Edited March 2017
Motor
1972 340 block +30
Eagle rotating system
Mahle forged pistons 10 1
Xe268 comp cam
RHS/INDY cylinder heads machined and ported from IMM Engines
Air gap inlet
Mopar Lecce ignition
TTI headers and dual exhaust with Dynomax boxes
650 Speed Demon carb with annular boosters
2,400 JW convertor
727 Dunc built with TF2 shift kit, new prop and UJs
489 rear open with 3.23 gears
Last edited by MilesnMiles on Sun Mar 05, 17 10:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Johnny Dart
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Haven't updated this thread for a while. Sold the car last May, bought in back in December and been busy on it ever since. Replaced much of the ignition and charging system over winter and just refitted the propshaft today.
Had it rebuild and balanced plus a new slip yoke (from a Bristol) that work was undertaken by H Chard in Bristol who can balance huge boat props so my job was realively simple.
Next few threads will be with pics and are on the joys of stripping ou the steering column etc to fit a new ignition switch.
Had it rebuild and balanced plus a new slip yoke (from a Bristol) that work was undertaken by H Chard in Bristol who can balance huge boat props so my job was realively simple.
Next few threads will be with pics and are on the joys of stripping ou the steering column etc to fit a new ignition switch.
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So I decided to replace the ignition switch. This is not a short job. Lots of parts to remove but besides a three leg puller nothing special needed.
I had to drop the column so as to get the switch wiring and connector block out of and then into the headset area which is a tight fit.
After much time test fitting I finally started to put it back together only to find that the steering lock hits the new switch
There's no leeway for error so I assume that the aftermarket switch is a fraction bigger than the original one and so I had to settle for removing the steering lock otherwise it catches badly on the switch and would soon gauge a chunk out of it.
Don't need the steering lock, but getting that ring on and off and trying to get the very tough oil in and out is no fun.
Next step is to adapt the wiring to accept the new ignition switch, it's not just a straight swap and plug and play. More fun
to come.
I had to drop the column so as to get the switch wiring and connector block out of and then into the headset area which is a tight fit.
After much time test fitting I finally started to put it back together only to find that the steering lock hits the new switch
There's no leeway for error so I assume that the aftermarket switch is a fraction bigger than the original one and so I had to settle for removing the steering lock otherwise it catches badly on the switch and would soon gauge a chunk out of it.
Don't need the steering lock, but getting that ring on and off and trying to get the very tough oil in and out is no fun.
Next step is to adapt the wiring to accept the new ignition switch, it's not just a straight swap and plug and play. More fun
to come.
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- IMG_0269.JPG (152.42 KiB) Viewed 6735 times
- Cannonball
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Its handy on the big Dodge Pete, wire the ignition up to another switch, burn the baby out, stage it n pull the key out that lock keeps the car nice n straight along that old black rubber strip,,Pete wrote:Good pictures Miles, I want to get rid of the steering lock on my Challenger, similar vinatage, I hate the steering lock
www.dwatts80.fsnet.co.uk
WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, CLOBBER THE COMPETITION ITS CLOBBERIN TIME
OFTEN OUTNUMBERED NEVER OUTGUNNED,
HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,
I HAVE A NVQW
LIFE GOES PRETTY FAST, IF YOU DONT LOOK ROUND A WHILE YOU MAY JUST MISS IT,
THE PASS IS THE JUICE,
LOVED BY FEW,
HATED BY MANY
RESPECTED BY ALL
WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, CLOBBER THE COMPETITION ITS CLOBBERIN TIME
OFTEN OUTNUMBERED NEVER OUTGUNNED,
HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,
I HAVE A NVQW
LIFE GOES PRETTY FAST, IF YOU DONT LOOK ROUND A WHILE YOU MAY JUST MISS IT,
THE PASS IS THE JUICE,
LOVED BY FEW,
HATED BY MANY
RESPECTED BY ALL
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Be warned, the steering lock comes on when you switch the ignition off, not when you remove the key. I found this out the hard way. The idea was to check the plugs after a full power run down a stretch of dual carriageway near me. There was a layby at the end of a long straight and slight left hand bend. I cut the ignition at about 100mph and started to coast round the bend towards the layby when the steering lock came on and I drifting across the road with an lorry coming the other way. Just managed to switch the ignition on again. Nearly Bananarama! myself.
1970 Road Runner, 505CI, 4 speed, GV overdrive, 3.91 gears.
11.98 @ 117mph on street tyres
11.98 @ 117mph on street tyres
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