Indicator switch CJ Chrysler by Chrysler

[AndyB]

Greetings all

Does anyone (cough cough Dave cough) know if I can get a replacement indicator switch locally for the CJ? I'm hoping Chrysler Australia raided the Yank parts bin and I don't have to go down the Aussie route!

Thanks in advance.

Andy

[Getawaydriver]

Hi Andy,
I have the same car as you, albeit a South African version. (Dodge SE in cars for sale section)
I replaced my indicator switch cam last year and found that it was the same as a 68 mopar turn signal cam for cars such as a 68 dodge dart or charger.
It only cost $10 plus shipping from America. I think I bought it on ebay. Because it was just the cam that I replaced it didn't matter that my car was right hand drive like yours. You can also buy the turn signal switch which comes with a new cam, but I'm not sure if the plastic switch mount can be rotated in the same way for a right hand drive car although they appear to be the same.

See links http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/swit ... tallation/

http://www.classicvaliants.com/for-sale.html

https://www.hemiperformance.com.au/shop ... vh-vj.html?

Hope this help,
Regards,
Phil.

[AndyB]

Awesome Phil Thanks. I will get online straight away!

Thanks again, Andy

[Dave999]

yes i can confirm.

mine has a 68 barracuda switch in it

i had to trim off one bit from the plastic mounting and of course work out from the old switch how the wires go as the colors didn't match.

you probably won't need the whole switch. you can just buy the cancel cam if that's what is broken. they press fit or are screwed down..i.e swappable expensive low quality plastic crap

one thing i can recommend when you put the screw in the holds down the stalk use loctite

one thing i DO NOT recommend is using a 3 prong puller to take off the crush can

mine stretched and now the bottom has a 5 mm dome it was never intended to have which leaves a gap between it and the column shroud.

which is how i have managed to do up the screw that holds the stalk when it comes undone..... (fat feeler gauge, patients and ingenuity)

which is why i recommend a small dab of loctite.

most bits that are not styled Australian are 6 cylinder 67 68 A body parts.

however your electrics use GM style modular connectors for the indicator switch. preslock i think they are called i might be wrong you will need to push the new pins into the old connector block. file down a section of hack saw blade into a thin strip with no serations. push the fat end into a cork and make yourself a plastic modular connector removing tool. slide it down the business end and ping back the blade lock tab to push the wire and connector back out the rear.
your ignition uses Mopar bullets for ignition switch until mid 73 and distributor until the end in 82
you have local spade/lucar/Lucas/blade connectors for your bulkhead connectors 1 is lights 1 is for ignition all else runs through grommets in bulkhead

lock tab lucar/spade connectors for instrumentation senders
bulbs and holders are US bayonet or offset bayonet push fit holders
dissy is Bosch europe below the plate. US mopar on top unless its a v8 in which case it can potentially be lucas europe below the plate and mopar on top
ignition boxes and regulators are US mopar
blinkers relays and ciggy lighter are all US mopar
wiper motors are lucas wipers bows and blade same as similar era british stuff .
lights are aussie hella up front apart from headlights which are usually sealed beam rubbish
rears are aussie mopar along similar design lines to US
alternator and starter are Bosch or aussie prestolite/email

there are some 10mm blade spade connectors you can get female lucar/spade in 10 mm but 10 mm crimp on male blades are hard to find as they are usually part of the device to be plugged in, case mounted, however on our cars sometimes used in the fusible link section of your battery cable on the way to the ammeter bound up with loom tape. but only on 1974 onwards cars

wiper switch is aussie but not unique
headlights switch is world wide mopar used from 1960 until 1996 you just need one with the correct number of contacts on it

gauges are aussie VDO and the fuel gauge is not compatible with US senders which expect 5 volt not 12
gauge guts needs to be matched to sender.

aussie dash does not use 5 volt regulated supply like US it is all 12 volt use 3 watt bulbs so you don't melt the green domes in the dash pod

In all cases apart from hemi 6 engines, pitman arm, idler and RHD dash trim and heater there is a US bit that will fit with (with a bit of fiddling) and do the job even if it doesn't look right.

and with aussie cars there is often a bit of ford or holden that costs 1/2 the money that fits, axle brakes brake bias pads shoes bearings seals etc

Girlock (aussie girling /lockheed) chrysler and ford holden (yours should have these)
PBR (aussie brakes) (chrysler and holden)
Kelsey (US/Aussie brakes) (chrysler and US chrysler and ford)
Borg warner (axles) Chrysler ford holden Nissan toyota GM US, Morgan, marcos, lotus, TVR, South african military

always find the part for chrysler valiant get the part number from manufacturer, and search aussie google and ebay for the part by number rather than mention chrysler valiant or mopar that way you are not subjected to MOPAR TAX chrysler specialists have a smaller customer base and buy parts in 10s or 100s they do not have the clout in oz to get the good deals that the aussie ford and holden specialist do who buy stuff by the 1000.
as you pay import duty and tax on the part and postage you want it as cheap as possible

and if its a US sourced part you only want to pay it once from US to UK not US to AUS to UK.

in many cases www.rockauto.com 68 dart section is your wallets best friend.

Dave

[AndyB]

You've outdone yourself again Dave

Thanks very much, think I'll have to archive your response for when the rest of the electrics invariably pack up!

Cheers again, Andy

[Getawaydriver]

Hi Andy,
Did you replace the turn signal switch cam?
I might be a bit late, but I've got a pullers to remove the crush can if you need it.
Regards,
Phil.

[AndyB]

Hi Phil

Thanks for your kind offer. I managed to make a puller and got the job done so one more fiddly job ticked off!

Cheers, Andy