Hi all,
Have issues with the 1972 Charger (Aussie) 5.2 318 cu in Fireball. Went to take it out for drive in June on a sunny day before going to Oz and it fired up first go. I moved it out of my parking space and switched it off to check fluids and tyre pressures etc....then went to start and nothing. Immediately thought it was the battery so went for my battery jump pack and it still wouldn't fire up. Turns over fine, engine spinning, starter working. I called the RAC and while I waited in the sun an AA van pulled up. The young fella wanted to look at the car and he tried his best to jump the car but admitted old cars weren't his thing. RAC turned up as he was there and both of them got to work trying to get me started. The younger RAC guy did know a bit about old cars and took to the voltmeter to check everything out.
In the end it was established that we had a spark issue, not a fuel issue (although I did buy a new mechanical fuel pump just in case as it is probably original 47 year old kit). The RAC man suggested it was the coil, which I did wonder as they just stop without warning (have had it happen in the outback myself). We pushed it back to my parking space and I ordered a coil. Having changed that, it kicked over for a split second and then nothing again. I had a local classic car mechanic come out last Friday and tried everything again. He suggested pulling the plugs out and cleaning them up (the RAC guy did and found a lot of fuel on them). So could it be plugs and HT leads that need attention followed by a carb tune (it's a new 2BBL carb - why the former owner bought a new 2BBL and not a 4BBL manifold and Holly I do not know).
Also - since I flushed the radiator and put Prestone in, I noticed in all the attempts to crank the engine a small (5-10 mls) of antifreeze on the passenger side floor mat, so the heater matrix must also now be screwed (or a hose).
Any ideas not relating to setting it on fire?
BW
Braden.
Starting issues - won't ********* start
Moderator: Moderators
Re: Starting issues - won't ********* start
Orange box or voltage regulator. Is it electronic ignition ?
Mine went through this. Fires up fine, then fries voltage reg on shutdown. Dead as a dodo. Traced eventually to a dodgy alternator...
Mine went through this. Fires up fine, then fries voltage reg on shutdown. Dead as a dodo. Traced eventually to a dodgy alternator...
"Cum homine de cane debeo congredi." Woof.
Current Charger status - "Working !"
Current Charger status - "Working !"
Re: Starting issues - won't ********* start
MMm
sounds like a VH charger will have had points ignition and a single ballast resistor originally i think
potentially
ballast resistor
ignition switch
corrosion
check you get 12 volts on the guard/inner wing side of the ballast resistor when the key is in RUN
if you don't then its busted ignition switch or corrosion in either the fuse box or one of the plastic 10 way bulkhead connectors
if you get 12 at one end check you get 8 volts at the other end
if you don't the ballast resistor is burnt out.
disconnect and clean both bulkhead connectors
remove and reseat all fuses. if the holder is green. clean it with a tiny wire brush
remove and remake all connections at fuse box
good for another few years
if its points. clean reset
if its electronic the reluctor should be something like 8 thou off the pickup at a point.
if its electronic and you want a cheap ignition with no Ballast resistor look up HEI in search to find me chuntering on about how to fit it
ballast resistors come in single and double. UK suppliers US automotive etc have them so do rockauto in the states
for an aussie you usually need a single ballast and the one off a 68 dart would do for points or electronic
if its a double you will need one off a post 73 dart
ballast resistors have a ceramic jacket filled with ceramic powder and a thin wire if the powder (potentially 46 years old) absorbs enough humidity it allows the wire to corrode which makes it thinner, it gets hot and burns out
if you are using a car that has spent the last 20 years being used infrequently. its worth disconnecting cleaning and reconnecting the main connectors
if any wire is gnarly, undo the wrap until you find clean wire. cut strip get new wire and new crimp or older on spade connector with appropriate rubber cover and shrink wrap
shrink wrap
linemans splice
solder new wire splice
slip over shrink wrap. hair dryer or heat gun it tight
strip end and crimp or solder on new connector as appropriate remember the rubber boot if its a single wire connector
connect or fit into plastic modular connector you will need to make a tool to ping out old connectors.
tool long rivet with the rivet stick ground into a flat blade works well and the rivet head gives you purchase . wedge into end of a bit of dowel up to the flange on the rivet head with some epoxy and you have a tool you won't loose
look up cling wrap for wiring looms on ebay this is a none sticky tape that is like thick black cling film you can re wrap any unwrapped loom with it and hold the loose end with shrink wrap.
its expensive but it is the original stuff and as you can see most of it on your loom has lasted 40+ years.
sticky insulating tape will peel off and just make a mess.
Dave
sounds like a VH charger will have had points ignition and a single ballast resistor originally i think
potentially
ballast resistor
ignition switch
corrosion
check you get 12 volts on the guard/inner wing side of the ballast resistor when the key is in RUN
if you don't then its busted ignition switch or corrosion in either the fuse box or one of the plastic 10 way bulkhead connectors
if you get 12 at one end check you get 8 volts at the other end
if you don't the ballast resistor is burnt out.
disconnect and clean both bulkhead connectors
remove and reseat all fuses. if the holder is green. clean it with a tiny wire brush
remove and remake all connections at fuse box
good for another few years
if its points. clean reset
if its electronic the reluctor should be something like 8 thou off the pickup at a point.
if its electronic and you want a cheap ignition with no Ballast resistor look up HEI in search to find me chuntering on about how to fit it
ballast resistors come in single and double. UK suppliers US automotive etc have them so do rockauto in the states
for an aussie you usually need a single ballast and the one off a 68 dart would do for points or electronic
if its a double you will need one off a post 73 dart
ballast resistors have a ceramic jacket filled with ceramic powder and a thin wire if the powder (potentially 46 years old) absorbs enough humidity it allows the wire to corrode which makes it thinner, it gets hot and burns out
if you are using a car that has spent the last 20 years being used infrequently. its worth disconnecting cleaning and reconnecting the main connectors
if any wire is gnarly, undo the wrap until you find clean wire. cut strip get new wire and new crimp or older on spade connector with appropriate rubber cover and shrink wrap
shrink wrap
linemans splice
solder new wire splice
slip over shrink wrap. hair dryer or heat gun it tight
strip end and crimp or solder on new connector as appropriate remember the rubber boot if its a single wire connector
connect or fit into plastic modular connector you will need to make a tool to ping out old connectors.
tool long rivet with the rivet stick ground into a flat blade works well and the rivet head gives you purchase . wedge into end of a bit of dowel up to the flange on the rivet head with some epoxy and you have a tool you won't loose
look up cling wrap for wiring looms on ebay this is a none sticky tape that is like thick black cling film you can re wrap any unwrapped loom with it and hold the loose end with shrink wrap.
its expensive but it is the original stuff and as you can see most of it on your loom has lasted 40+ years.
sticky insulating tape will peel off and just make a mess.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying