Anton's 68 Charger - 2012 Update
Moderator: Moderators
re-assembled
Spent the whole day re-assembling the axle and front suspension and here are some photos.
- Attachments
-
- 4.JPG (111.24 KiB) Viewed 2232 times
-
- 3.JPG (111.08 KiB) Viewed 2232 times
-
- 2.JPG (121.11 KiB) Viewed 2232 times
-
- 1.JPG (117.69 KiB) Viewed 2232 times
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
I got this when asking about it on another message board.
According to FFI, you are right Roppa440. The strut is responsible for holding the lower control arm in place when using poly bushings. If it is not set right the arm can slide back and forth on the bushing during braking and cornering. They have seen up to 3/8" gap at the K-frame to LCA juncture.
As far as rubber holding the bushing/arm in place, the same thing, but not immediately notable. The strut length is critical as HP2 pointed out and a bind can occur which works against the control arm causing premature wear on the bushing. Also the suspension maybe noticeably harsh.
Now. I looked into the movement of my LCA last year before I installed the torsion bars because of what has been said in various places about poly LCA bushings.
I looked for wear or evidence of movement on the poly bush and for any evidence of the LCA hitting the frame at any point.
I found non.
I also moved the suspension up and down in slightly more than its normal range and found that the poly strut bush in the K-frame had enough give in it to allow the LCA to move without binding or pulling forward at the extremes of movement.
Now it could be that I am lucky and that my strut is a perfect length when fitted with poly at the front. But I am never lucky in any other aspect so I doubt mine is a one-off.
If I were fitting poly (or even stock replacement) bushes for the first time I would check the suspension movement very carefully. It there is anything wrong with the way the suspension moves then there is something physically wrong with the set-up.
Rubber bushes move a great deal more than poly bushes. That means the LCA bush as well. If the stock LCA bush is all that is stopping the LCA from moving then it will fail eventually. It is only the strut keeping the LCA in position no matter what type of pivot bush you use.
My poly-graphite LCA bush was a damn tight fit. I had to press it in with a hydraulic jack. If yours is not a tight fit then maybe you should think about either finding a better one or fitting the stock rubber one.
According to FFI, you are right Roppa440. The strut is responsible for holding the lower control arm in place when using poly bushings. If it is not set right the arm can slide back and forth on the bushing during braking and cornering. They have seen up to 3/8" gap at the K-frame to LCA juncture.
As far as rubber holding the bushing/arm in place, the same thing, but not immediately notable. The strut length is critical as HP2 pointed out and a bind can occur which works against the control arm causing premature wear on the bushing. Also the suspension maybe noticeably harsh.
Now. I looked into the movement of my LCA last year before I installed the torsion bars because of what has been said in various places about poly LCA bushings.
I looked for wear or evidence of movement on the poly bush and for any evidence of the LCA hitting the frame at any point.
I found non.
I also moved the suspension up and down in slightly more than its normal range and found that the poly strut bush in the K-frame had enough give in it to allow the LCA to move without binding or pulling forward at the extremes of movement.
Now it could be that I am lucky and that my strut is a perfect length when fitted with poly at the front. But I am never lucky in any other aspect so I doubt mine is a one-off.
If I were fitting poly (or even stock replacement) bushes for the first time I would check the suspension movement very carefully. It there is anything wrong with the way the suspension moves then there is something physically wrong with the set-up.
Rubber bushes move a great deal more than poly bushes. That means the LCA bush as well. If the stock LCA bush is all that is stopping the LCA from moving then it will fail eventually. It is only the strut keeping the LCA in position no matter what type of pivot bush you use.
My poly-graphite LCA bush was a damn tight fit. I had to press it in with a hydraulic jack. If yours is not a tight fit then maybe you should think about either finding a better one or fitting the stock rubber one.
Thanks for the info Dave.
I have fitted the poly LCA bush and yes i used a press to fit it so hopefully i wont have any problems. i also made sure my torsion bars where seat tight into the LCA so hopefully when they are under tension it will be impossible for the LCA to move back.
Dave any advice on replacing the steering shaft seal on power steering box as after i put it back in the car it started to leak and now i have to take it back out to fix it. I love all these set backs
.
Thanks again for remembering the LCA problem.
Anton
I have fitted the poly LCA bush and yes i used a press to fit it so hopefully i wont have any problems. i also made sure my torsion bars where seat tight into the LCA so hopefully when they are under tension it will be impossible for the LCA to move back.
Dave any advice on replacing the steering shaft seal on power steering box as after i put it back in the car it started to leak and now i have to take it back out to fix it. I love all these set backs

Thanks again for remembering the LCA problem.
Anton
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
You can do it with the box in place but you still have to remove the steering column. Not actually ever done this job myself though. It is called the worm shaft seal.dawesapd wrote:Dave any advice on replacing the steering shaft seal on power steering box as after i put it back in the car it started to leak and now i have to take it back out to fix it.
- Attachments
-
- GRP19_12.jpg (157.94 KiB) Viewed 2151 times
problems with exhaust link pipe
I got a new set of header off Baccaruda and fitted them yesterday and when i went to fit the link pipe to the silencers i noticed that the link pipe was running off center to the car and realized that one side was about 20mm longer than it should be. to fix the problem i cut off the old connectors on the link pipe and the cut the end and flared out the end. i the cut the collectors off my old headers and welded then in place making sure the short side was 20mm longer and problem solved i hope.
next problem to fix is the leaking steering worm gear seal.
next problem to fix is the leaking steering worm gear seal.
- Attachments
-
- new coat of paint and job done
- 3.JPG (86.5 KiB) Viewed 2111 times
-
- old header collectors welded on
- 2.JPG (65.65 KiB) Viewed 2111 times
-
- before with old home made connectors on
- 1.JPG (68.56 KiB) Viewed 2111 times
The car is all back together and back on its wheels.
I'm still waiting for the steering box seal which will hopefully be hear next week. the ride height is perfect and my drum brakes are far better than they have ever bean.
I'm still waiting for the steering box seal which will hopefully be hear next week. the ride height is perfect and my drum brakes are far better than they have ever bean.
- Attachments
-
- Back on her wheels and boy i like hear stance
- 10.JPG (114.1 KiB) Viewed 2062 times
-
- 9.JPG (98.13 KiB) Viewed 2062 times
-
- 8.JPG (104.31 KiB) Viewed 2062 times
-
- 7.JPG (141.27 KiB) Viewed 2062 times
-
- rear axle
- 6.JPG (92.14 KiB) Viewed 2062 times