db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Tue Mar 19, 13 8:23 pm

Les Szabo wrote:
db wrote:I forgot to mention I welded the timing slots as you suggested Pete, so that's the absolute max timing it'll reach now.
And of course I managed to refit the dissy 180* out so got a nice backfire and flames out of the carb.

Reminder to self... CHECK EVERYTHING!!!!!
Glad you got it all sorted, now comes the fun part, enjoying all that extra power now its running on song, and you still got the carb to go..

Don't forget if you bolt on an N20 kit Paul to reduce your timing by a degree or 2 if you plan on running any more than 150 shot...depending on your CR and the fuel your using.

Les

Paul / Les ... I took 2 deg per 50 hp + 1 for luck. Therefore 50 hp - 3 deg ... 75 hp - 4 deg ... 100 hp - 5 deg

db · Post by db » Tue Mar 19, 13 10:32 pm

Thanks Jon, I'm trying not to get ahead of myself so I'm not even gonna think about n2o yet

Thanks Dave, Ade suggested disabling the secondaries and borrowing the jet to try in the primary.

Do I just disconnect the vac operating rod to disable the secondaries?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Mar 19, 13 10:41 pm

You do not have to disconnect - just stop the travel, hence the cable tie.

I have never bothered, just experiment with the jetting. I have tended to square jet if the venturi are the same size.

REMEMBER: This is the FUN bit!!!!

db · Post by db » Wed Mar 20, 13 11:12 am

Ah, silly me

Yes I'm getting into it now Pete, I'm seeing a bit of a result with each change so lots of enthusiasm at the moment

db · Post by db » Sat Mar 23, 13 6:29 pm

Valve lash done today. Hot clearances were 16 thou, cold was 18 so they're now all set to that.

I've a full set of main jets on the way, cheers Ash

I've been offered a pair of wheels to try in place of my rears, so I can start eliminating the cause of the vibration.

Hopefully by the time the wheels & jets turn up, the snow and slush will have buggered off and I can do some serious road-testing

db · Post by db » Thu Mar 28, 13 9:23 pm

It's like Christmas here

750dp from Jon
Brand new set of jets from Ash
Rebuild kit from Real Steel

I've stripped the new carb- I did try banging it on the car straight out of the box but fuel pi55ed out. I only realised when I had it half stripped that one bolt was missing out of the rear fuel bowl- that would explain the leak then...

I'm happy to rebuild it though- the old gaskets would never cope with coming apart for jetting changes, etc and I'd expect the seals to have hardened.

I'll get the old carb properly jetted and running right before I try the dp just so I have a baseline to compare it with.
My old carb has Maxjets so I've had to do a conversion to work out the equivalent Holley jet sizes.
I've wired the secondaries shut and gone up from 70.25-ish to 72. I'll wait til the roads are a bit cleaner before I take it out tho, they're white with salt just now!

I've also found a tyre shop that reckon they can fit my 18.5 x 29's on their balancer- result

Les Szabo · Post by **Les Szabo** » Thu Mar 28, 13 10:53 pm

Yes, get that VS running ok 1st and then you got a base.

72pri/74sec on the DP is a good start or 80's in the back with no PV. Removing the PV normally= around a 8>10 increase in jet size.

Once running ok add a 2" spacer and see the difference, should add some torque.....

Try 1st gear with the clutch out and rolling along on a warm mtr, keep the revs low and pump the throttle some, if it feels a bit flat when you go for it, up the shooter size on the front till it feels stronger and the tyres start to protest or you feel the difference. A stick car is a bit different to set up than an auto but reckon that will work.

Get that lot running well on song and with a 10" slick and 4.5's you should have an easy mid to low 12sec car there next time your at the Pod and a killer pro street car....can't see that being more than 3500lb all in?

Les

db · Post by db » Fri Mar 29, 13 10:25 am

Thanks Les, that's the sort of info only years of experience can give. You're saving me from a lot of trial and error mate

Yes you're about right with the weigh I think, maybe a little less. Thats amazing, I thought 13's would be optimistic!

There's no rear pv in the dp so I'll pop 80's in it then.

Les Szabo · Post by **Les Szabo** » Fri Mar 29, 13 1:20 pm

Yeah try 80's in to start, bit hard to tune a street car without it being on WOT for any length of time and then a quick read of the plugs, mind you, you got an AFR set up?, so in theory you should be able to get it set as good if not better.

As I said 12's should be a walk in the park Paul although I know thats not what really turns you on, which is a shame as you got everything there to make that into an 11 sec car on mtr with a few tweeks (850>950dp+head work), those Eddys you got are good for over 500hp with a bit of work, and you'll still stomp the streets with ease, but I am getting a bit carried away here....

By the way....what CR are you at?....hope its around 10.5:1 ish.

Maybe we'll see the proof at the Nats if you get there this year.....

Les

db · Post by db » Fri Mar 29, 13 11:13 pm

Yup 10.5:1 mate, the heads are Barton ported Eddys.

I have great hopes for my lovely AFR gauge, I've always struggled reading plugs an all that

sidewaysjas · Post by **sidewaysjas** » Sat Mar 30, 13 9:32 pm

Hi Paul

Would be great if you run 12's after all the hard work, still reading the thread.

Jas

Les Szabo · Post by **Les Szabo** » Sat Mar 30, 13 10:16 pm

db wrote:Yup 10.5:1 mate, the heads are Barton ported Eddys.

I have great hopes for my lovely AFR gauge, I've always struggled reading plugs an all that

This just gets better every time I ask a question Paul, you sure your not gonna suprise everyone at the track with a 12 sec run here with a throttle stop set up, its looking that way.

What stage porting?....I suppose your gonna tell me its max port and you got 2.08 inlets as well in there and a strip clutch........well forget the 750dp...you'll be needing a 950 mate.

I reckon you know exactly what your doing here and just messing with us?

Just 1 thing I would suggest with all this good stuff....and thats an MSD6 ignition, don't know if that chrysler elec ign is gonna fire all that fuel any good on WOT

...but you already know that.

Les

db · Post by db » Tue Apr 02, 13 11:04 am

Honest truth Les, all I know I've learned from the guys on here.
99% of my engine building/tuning has been bikes and I've only ever taken road bikes down the strip so I've no experience of my own. I've just found I love to learn about these motors and what makes power and speed and yes I think I'm getting slowly drawn into dragstrip thinking

The motor came from Pete Wiseman, out of his Sox & Martin Barracuda. (Alex Doig and Blue had a lot to do with it)

Not sure about the porting details and I think it's stock valve sizes.
Here's all I know-

BRAND NEW MP 360 Short Block.
Milodon deep sump & Pickup and Windage tray,
High Vol Oil pump.
ARP bolts throughout
Edelbrock Indy aluminium heads Ported by Ray Barton cw Roller Rockers.
M1 Inlet manifold Single plane.
.580" Ultradyne Cam & solid Lifters.
BRAND NEW TTI Headers.
BRAND NEW Ministarter.
BRAND NEW alternator & alloy Brackets.
MARCH Pulley set & Serpentine Belt.

18 spline 4-speed, stock clutch.
S&W Ford 9", Detroit locker, 4.50:1
18.5" x 29" MT's

Of course, the better the car is, the more it'll show up my driving 'skills'

db · Post by db » Tue Apr 02, 13 2:34 pm

I've got stuck into the new carb- all stripped and I have the kit ready to rebuild it.

I pulled the rear wheels off yesterday to get them balanced and I found some fluid in the hubs. Fluid is not only coming out of the overflow but from the end seals too!
I've also found a bit of metal powder on the magnetic drain plug

Luckily the gear faces look perfect.
I can only imagine some swarf or weld spatter was stuck inside from when it was made and I didn't clean it out well enough!!

I'll give it a good flush out and replace the fluid.
I'll fit a proper vent.
Don't know what to do about the seals though... They're brand new and I can't see any damage or any reason for them to leak unless they were faulty... Any ideas?

Les Szabo · Post by **Les Szabo** » Tue Apr 02, 13 3:14 pm

Ah right ok Paul, well you gotta learn from somewhere mate, and where best but on here from people that have been there and done or are doing it. I learnt most of it at the track and from other racers.

As I have already said, thats a real nice combo you have their, I reckon with those Eddys and an 850 or even a 950 if you get really into it money permitting, that motor should put out approx 400hp, probably a bit more, Pete will know more about that perhaps.

To show its capabilty, at 3500lbs? w/400hp? and 10x28" slicks that car should run.....

60 Foot E.T. : 1.67
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.57
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 89.75
1/4 Mile E.T. : 12.00
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 112
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 6,114

This Wallace calculator is the best I have used and quite accurate, but not an absolute of course, running the car is the only way.

Or you could try this one, drag your mouse over the graph for different HP's at ET's
http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_horsepower ... d_time.php

I personally think that using a 750dp will lose you around 2/10'ths over a n 850, driving technique will come, you just gotta be a bit more brutal with it all and practice. A V-gate shifter if they still exist would be the best but its a bit naff to use on the street.

To be quite honest, I was never a fan of 4spds for Racing, best set up would be a manual 727 with a nice 4200 ish verter and a brake perhaps, but of course thats £££'s and would take some of the fun out of street driving.

Anyhow, will look forward to seeing it run at the Nats

Les

Mopar Muscle Association UK

db's 66 Belvedere FOR SALE

12's