Steering box adjustment

octanejunkie · Post by **octanejunkie** » Fri Dec 05, 14 11:40 am

On other old cars, (Mercedes in my case) to take up the slop in the steering box, its always been said to adjust it with the wheels at full lock left or right. This is because there will be less wear at this point, so any slack is taken up at this point. If done in the straight ahead position (where there is generally more wear), then it can cause binding and damage when the wheels are turned towards full lock. This sound plausible, and is the method i've used on old Mercedes.

However, on looking into Mopar steering boxes, it seems that any slack is adjusted out with the wheels in the straight ahead position.
For my 74 Roadrunner, i have a chassis manual, and it does indeed say that its done this way. It also says that you should disconnect the link arm from the steering gear, which could be a pain in the arse.

So, how have you guys adjusted your steering boxes on here?
My car has a fair bit of slop and wanders around a bit. You can see when wiggling the steering wheel that its in need of adjustment. Can i do it on the drive with wheels on the ground, or do i really need to put it on a ramp and start knocking out balljoints etc?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Dec 05, 14 12:31 pm

You have to do it the factory way.

But you will also find play in the suspension bushes unless they have been replaced in recent years. These will put play into the steering too.

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Fri Dec 05, 14 4:30 pm

What Dave said

For the relatively small cost get a full set of new ball joints, bushings etc and spend a day doing it. Check idler and all connections

It's easy enough job but you might need a puller set.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Dec 05, 14 6:21 pm

Next job after after that is to replace all those rotted out K frame donut bushes that allow the engine and car to move around. I used new poly bushes and it transformed the car. New steering box helped too. All on a 73 RR.

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Fri Dec 05, 14 6:31 pm

Agreed, it's all part of sensible housekeeping.

Do the above and you won't need to do it for years to come

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Dec 08, 14 1:29 pm

Hi Jon....I did mine on my Polara exactly as the manual says. The idler arm is easy to get off with a puller and a G clamp on the jaws to stop it slipping off. I have a puller that you can borrow if you want? Can pop it in the post to you. To be honest, I paid about £15 for it and its been an invaluable tool in the box for popping joints to put new boots on etc so might be worth investing?? Here if you need it though matey

Cheers Steve

octanejunkie · Post by **octanejunkie** » Mon Dec 08, 14 8:45 pm

Steve wrote:Hi Jon....I did mine on my Polara exactly as the manual says. The idler arm is easy to get off with a puller and a G clamp on the jaws to stop it slipping off. I have a puller that you can borrow if you want? Can pop it in the post to you. To be honest, I paid about £15 for it and its been an invaluable tool in the box for popping joints to put new boots on etc so might be worth investing?? Here if you need it though matey

Cheers Steve

Much obliged.

Car goes into the workshop this week to start making a list of woe. While its on the ramp, i'll do the adjustments, and see what else is crumbling and fuba..