Mopar Muscle Association UK

You can't use studs with headers. It makes it impossible to get them in or out without taking the whole engine out.
This is why they make header bolts.

The best way to fit a big block with headers attached is to fit it the same way the factory did it. From underneath with the engine mounted on the K-frame.

Oh bugger! Hadn't planned on that. Engine bay looks wide enough? Has nobody dropped it in from above?

Headers will hit just about everything if you try to install the engine from above with 'em on. There's a fair chance you'll have to have them on and off a few times anyway to dink 'em for clearance. You might well be able to leave the studs in the heads and fit the headers, I did that on Jem's Belvedere, there was enough room when I jacked the engine over to one side. Surprised me actually, I didn't think you could, but as the studs were putting up a real fight to come out, I thought I'd at least try it...

Cheers Blue. What I might do is fit the headers with bolts loosely, then tighten everything once in situ. That way I've got a bit of movement to juggle it in (as the actress said to the bishop).

Hey Gringo , lift the motor one side & feed the header in from underneath , once you got the drivers side in the pas side will be a walk in the park , turn the steering to full lock each way when you fit the headers , makes life easier.

Don't know what headers you got but the cheaper one's will have clearance issues & you'll have to heat em up & ding em here & there as Blue said.

You won't get em in if you use exhaust studs as Dave pointed out.

Anyway , i HATE HEADERS , would rather have an early night with the wife.

Anyway , i HATE HEADERS , would rather have an early night with the wife.

[/quote]

Yeah, they ain't easy. They are second hand and came with the motor. The motor came out a Charger, so fingers crossed they'll have the right dings and dents already to make them fit...

Should be Ok then Gringo.

Take them spark plugs out before you snap em off.

Brutus wrote:Should be Ok then Gringo.

Take them spark plugs out before you snap em off.

They are only in there to block the holes when painting, etc. But yeah, good idea...

IF you manage to get the engine in with the headers on you'll probably need to take the drivers side one off again to fit the starter...

Hey Blue, we're going to try and do the engine and box as one. It's amitious, but worth a try!

Tidying the engine bay this weekend, then hopefully fitting the motor next weekend. Got a mate who is going to help renew a lot of the engine bay wiring. Was going to get a new ali radiator, but that means sorting a trans cooler. So going to have the original 26" rad recored locally. Been quoted £220? Sound any good?
Still on course for Wheels Day, but it's getting close. Chances are I'll have teething problems, so I'm just hoping to get them all sorted in time.

mark thats exactly what i was quoted 220+vat for a rad ! instead i brought any ally one off kerry (originals) on here 150 to my door they fit easy to , plus fitting an aux trans cooler is defo a good move for any trans and when you come to mod the motor some more you already gona have the cooling capacity , your call mate but i aint looked back since i fitted the ally rad seems to hold more water to as for using studs on the manifolds i use them just means i have to remove the engine mount bolts and raise the motor before they will drop down

Hey Jim, as it happens, I was going to go for one of them ali rads from Originals. The only reason I was going to stick with mine and get it refurbed, was because the car would be back on the road quicker. You got me thinking now...

Where did you get your trans cooler from? And what size, and money are we talking about?

cant remember where i got the trans cooler from , size is about 10x12" i run copper lines from the box but you can run braided or similar , as for price they aint a lot of money mite be worth a call to duncan or dave b before anyone

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... de=MOCAT/2

How about this 1?