DIY Powder coating kits

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Dec 17, 04 10:10 pm

Sorry, Neil - not nige! Must pay attention.

db · Post by db » Mon Dec 20, 04 1:27 pm

I've had lots of powdercoating done over the years an i have nowt but praise for it. 1st thing i had done was a motorbike frame about 18 years ago- its done 25000m in all weathers since and still aint rusted anywhere ( even the front downtubes which get quite a battering!) Recently had a Lancia engine cradle/subfame thingy done, not as tough a finish and has a couple of chips after a year ( not sure which type of coating either were) also had the Lancia alloys done in metallic silver- brought em up like new and as good a finish as you could get wi paint i reckon.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Dec 20, 04 2:04 pm

whats the deal with clear powder coating or did I dream that one?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Dec 20, 04 2:47 pm

Powder clearcoats - used a lot in the US for OEM and Aftermarket wheels, usually Acrylic based powders for higher clarity and smooth flow. Is applied over the machined alloy faces (and/or colour infill, spokes, etc) for protection (with a very light chromate pretreatment to the alloy).

In Europe, polyester based clearcoats are favoured, due to better paint compatability. Euro wheels are usually fully painted - primer powder (epoxy/polyester hybrid, (front and backside), wet silver or colour base followed by clearcoat. Polyester clearcoats are also pretty good for refinish work and I guess that`s what most coaters will use inthe UK.

Just for your further enlightenment - clear powders topcoats (acrylic) are applied to BMW 5 series and I think also on some Volvos.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Dec 20, 04 3:20 pm

So if I had some trim pieces or whatever all polished up lovely I could get them clear powder coated and this would preserve the gloss? Can't really use paint as it doesn't like to stick to shiny surfaces.

Also thinking about emblems and such which pit and loose the enameled detail - clear powder coat all over and no deterioration.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Dec 20, 04 3:53 pm

Ah, coating over trim? Trim, usually stainless or chrome - don`t go there, as there are problems with adhesion to these metals - something to do with the metal quality and how it`s treated on manufacture (boron nitrided in the case of stainless). The grades of stainless have different finishing techniques. It may stay looking good for a while but eventually the paint will give way. The metal surfaces need to be free of all contaminant for any chance of a useful life. as you already said Alistair, paint doesn`t like to stick to shiny surfaces and that includes powder paints. I think it will be too big a headache to deal with - just keep on polishing.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Mon Dec 20, 04 5:25 pm

Hooeey! Am I glad I'm the paint man and not the powder coating man!

I do a bit with Ransberg electrostatics and understand how it works, but that's where my expertise ends...you just carry on doing a great job Neil!

I'll be clearcoating my polished wheels using a transparent sealer and adhesion promotor with a two pack lacquer...I'll let you know how I get on Alistair 8)

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Dec 20, 04 5:54 pm

Ivor, as I`m sure you`ll know, the success of a paint job is all in the preparation. If you do it yourself, you get the quality you need or want dependant upon effort. At least you are in control. I`ve only had limited experience of wet application - I know it`s difficult and time consuming compared to powder application. I`ll continue to guide and/or feed people with as much info they need to make a better judgement so they can make their own mind up on whats best for them.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Dec 21, 04 9:40 am

Ivor - you do that. I saw some pics of a guy who'd done a Harley motor, all polished then cleared and candied in various shades. Looked awesome but I bet as soon as it had run for like 10 minutes it was knacked. Or would it?