Gringo's Charger.
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Anonymous
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latil
- Posts: 12076
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 05 10:37 pm
- Location: Steve Pearson MMA/014. East Grinstead and Carmarthen.
Apart from 3 areas of welding and the steering joints,it's all straightforward stuff. Take the front seat and belt out,remove the rear belts they're not compulsory for that vehicle. Number plate lamp easy fix,headlight alignment-I've never found a testing centre that won't do it for you free of charge during the test. A few evenings work.
1965 Belvedere 2 426 Wedge.
Climate change,global warming,the biggest tax raising scam ever devised by man for mankind.
Motivating Our People,Accelerating Rapidly.
Climate change,global warming,the biggest tax raising scam ever devised by man for mankind.
Motivating Our People,Accelerating Rapidly.
nearside head lamp is ok
roll car 6 foot in front of a wall
wait till its dark
both headlamps on main
chalk the centre of the pattern for each
measure up wall from floor to chalk on good headlamp
get bad headlamp to the same hight
next from centre of good headlamp measure to wall dead streight
this mark will be the true straight ahead
measure how much, if, at all it differs from the good pattern mark on the good headlamp
adjust bad one the same
do the same again on dipped to check they both match
if they don't then you either have
a seperate light for main and dipped and the routine must be done again for both sets of lights or
one of your bulbs is in upside down. a twin fliament bulb comes in two types
lightbulb shaped old style round globe
or halogen shaped bullet with a black tip
lightbulb shaped bulbs have a metal cap (as part of the lamp) in front of them that reflects centre of beam back to be reflected forward again. if its missing you are on a hiding to knowhere if the MOT man is that strict because you will nver get a decent pattern to work his headlamp checking machine
halogen can in theory only go in 1 way they have a small reflector built into the filament structure. if they have been bodged in the wrong way this throws the beam right off. compare the way it is orientated in its holder with the good one.
if you have a lack of adjustement the plastic plugs that go into the headlamp bucket surround, the springs and the cross head adjusters are reasonably common across Chryslers of a specific vintage its just the length of the adjuster screws that differs.
if stuck you can bodge it with various things wedged behind the headlamp bucket i used one of those butterfly bolts used for holding things onto stud partitioning and a stack (think i bought a bag of 25) flat washers from wickes until i got a new adjuster screw and plastic plug for the bottom headlamp bucket adjuster. the headlamp will have 2 fixed points (spring clips) and 2 adjusters, bolt with a profile under the head that fits into a slotted tab off the bucket (cross "round off that phillips screwdriver" type headed bolt) these screw into a plastic plug with a threaded hole through it. thes are a push fit and as such can be pulled out and knackerd by over zealous adjustement.
Dave
roll car 6 foot in front of a wall
wait till its dark
both headlamps on main
chalk the centre of the pattern for each
measure up wall from floor to chalk on good headlamp
get bad headlamp to the same hight
next from centre of good headlamp measure to wall dead streight
this mark will be the true straight ahead
measure how much, if, at all it differs from the good pattern mark on the good headlamp
adjust bad one the same
do the same again on dipped to check they both match
if they don't then you either have
a seperate light for main and dipped and the routine must be done again for both sets of lights or
one of your bulbs is in upside down. a twin fliament bulb comes in two types
lightbulb shaped old style round globe
or halogen shaped bullet with a black tip
lightbulb shaped bulbs have a metal cap (as part of the lamp) in front of them that reflects centre of beam back to be reflected forward again. if its missing you are on a hiding to knowhere if the MOT man is that strict because you will nver get a decent pattern to work his headlamp checking machine
halogen can in theory only go in 1 way they have a small reflector built into the filament structure. if they have been bodged in the wrong way this throws the beam right off. compare the way it is orientated in its holder with the good one.
if you have a lack of adjustement the plastic plugs that go into the headlamp bucket surround, the springs and the cross head adjusters are reasonably common across Chryslers of a specific vintage its just the length of the adjuster screws that differs.
if stuck you can bodge it with various things wedged behind the headlamp bucket i used one of those butterfly bolts used for holding things onto stud partitioning and a stack (think i bought a bag of 25) flat washers from wickes until i got a new adjuster screw and plastic plug for the bottom headlamp bucket adjuster. the headlamp will have 2 fixed points (spring clips) and 2 adjusters, bolt with a profile under the head that fits into a slotted tab off the bucket (cross "round off that phillips screwdriver" type headed bolt) these screw into a plastic plug with a threaded hole through it. thes are a push fit and as such can be pulled out and knackerd by over zealous adjustement.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
indicator issue
check you get on off on off power to the wires that go into the housing by sticking your mutlimeter in to the connector and earth it to the car
then check with connector connected and multimeter into bulb holder each contact with the black lead earthed to the bulb holder casing
if the lamp don't work you need a new bulb or the housing is not earthed.
take the indicator housing off and clean up its mouning holes...if the oportunity arises to put in a spiky washer do it and cover it in vasaline or grease
the dash light i believe is swichthed so its off when the indcators is on and vice verca. hence has to get its instruction from the indciator relay, i'd leave it until i get all external lights working....this could be an indicator error indication, the indicator relay may depend on a certain resistance to function correctly
1) bulb is knackerd
2) bulb holder earth contact is corroded where it pushed into metal back of guage pod
3) guagepod is not earthed(no dash lights would work and no guages except the speedo)
4) one of the cables from the indicator switch is not connected or the connector block is corroded
this is under the edge of the dash panel near the column the wires will exit some kind of metal cover between the steering wheel collaipsible can and the lower edge of the Bananarama! will be a modular conector with about 7 wires in it and possibly a metal clip on the back of it to keep it out the way
red pink beige dark green yellow light green black and blue i think or all white with a trace line of these colours....you have more if you have emergency flashers.
all links to stuff forward of the dash go though a bulkhead connector of some type. if you can trace the indicator power across that you can discount it.
give each connector a tweak and slashing a load of wd40 into it solves (temporarily at least) a load of issues. (wd40 is graphite based and graphite conducts)
hope this helps
are your track rod ends the kind you can re grease? if so pump a load through em. mandatory before an MOT. not something you should, ever scrimp on as you don't want em to pop out at speed but ones with grease nipples need a bit of grease to be seen in their true light as worn or just dry but still servicable. if they were run dry i'd be looking for some new ones but they may come good. get rid if the boots have split.
centre one off the steering box pitman arm is a reet bugger
suggest big hammer to the raised lump next to the hole for each ball joint taper is the way to go re: removal. saves buggering about with pickle forks and the like..tis what that lump is for.
oh yeah
hand brake has a threaded rod adjuster that the saddle for the handbrake cables sits on.
adjusty the rear brakes so they just just drag
adjust the hand brake saddle under the car to get the slack out of the cables
or you have leaking seals at the bearing retainer on the rear axle....
Dave
check you get on off on off power to the wires that go into the housing by sticking your mutlimeter in to the connector and earth it to the car
then check with connector connected and multimeter into bulb holder each contact with the black lead earthed to the bulb holder casing
if the lamp don't work you need a new bulb or the housing is not earthed.
take the indicator housing off and clean up its mouning holes...if the oportunity arises to put in a spiky washer do it and cover it in vasaline or grease
the dash light i believe is swichthed so its off when the indcators is on and vice verca. hence has to get its instruction from the indciator relay, i'd leave it until i get all external lights working....this could be an indicator error indication, the indicator relay may depend on a certain resistance to function correctly
1) bulb is knackerd
2) bulb holder earth contact is corroded where it pushed into metal back of guage pod
3) guagepod is not earthed(no dash lights would work and no guages except the speedo)
4) one of the cables from the indicator switch is not connected or the connector block is corroded
this is under the edge of the dash panel near the column the wires will exit some kind of metal cover between the steering wheel collaipsible can and the lower edge of the Bananarama! will be a modular conector with about 7 wires in it and possibly a metal clip on the back of it to keep it out the way
red pink beige dark green yellow light green black and blue i think or all white with a trace line of these colours....you have more if you have emergency flashers.
all links to stuff forward of the dash go though a bulkhead connector of some type. if you can trace the indicator power across that you can discount it.
give each connector a tweak and slashing a load of wd40 into it solves (temporarily at least) a load of issues. (wd40 is graphite based and graphite conducts)
hope this helps
are your track rod ends the kind you can re grease? if so pump a load through em. mandatory before an MOT. not something you should, ever scrimp on as you don't want em to pop out at speed but ones with grease nipples need a bit of grease to be seen in their true light as worn or just dry but still servicable. if they were run dry i'd be looking for some new ones but they may come good. get rid if the boots have split.
centre one off the steering box pitman arm is a reet bugger
suggest big hammer to the raised lump next to the hole for each ball joint taper is the way to go re: removal. saves buggering about with pickle forks and the like..tis what that lump is for.
oh yeah
hand brake has a threaded rod adjuster that the saddle for the handbrake cables sits on.
adjusty the rear brakes so they just just drag
adjust the hand brake saddle under the car to get the slack out of the cables
or you have leaking seals at the bearing retainer on the rear axle....
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Gringo
Cheers guys. I haven't ruled out getting it done by the Nats. I think I've made my mind up to bodge it for now. Don't want the car off the road for too long. Most of the small bits I can sort, including seat and belt. It's the welding, but Bruvmopar might have found someone to help. 
As regards the track rod ends and the drag link ball joint, where's the best place to buy? I've been using Rodley Motors...
If it's not done by the Nats, we could cruise up to the Nats together Darran.
'The sad gits cruise'. 
As regards the track rod ends and the drag link ball joint, where's the best place to buy? I've been using Rodley Motors...
If it's not done by the Nats, we could cruise up to the Nats together Darran.
'The sad gits cruise'. -
Gringo
Dave999, thanks for all that info. The hand brake is the testers fault as he didn't apply it properly (he pulled the release handle ). Indicator warning light is a mystery as it works with hazards but not indicator. The switch on the column is at fault with the left indicator (sometimes works). I think the passenger seat has a small amount of adjustment (with a hammer) in the catch. I'll take the rear belt out. The welding is going to be looked at this friday by Sidewaysjas. Just need them track rod ends and drag link joint. 
). Indicator warning light is a mystery as it works with hazards but not indicator. The switch on the column is at fault with the left indicator (sometimes works). I think the passenger seat has a small amount of adjustment (with a hammer) in the catch. I'll take the rear belt out. The welding is going to be looked at this friday by Sidewaysjas. Just need them track rod ends and drag link joint. 
Mark, I got track rod ends, no problem from usautomotive for Coronet, got them the next day, 01234 273155.
1969 Dodge Coronet SuperBee.
1968 Dodge Charger.
1962 Imperial LeBaron 4-dr HT.
1969 Mercury Marquis 2-dr HT.
1955 Cadillac series 62 2-dr HT Cpe.
1956 Chevrolet Belair 4-dr Sedan.
1977 Lincoln Continental Mark V.
1994 Ford Mustang GT V8
2003 Audi A4 TDI Estate
2005 Ford Transit
1968 Dodge Charger.
1962 Imperial LeBaron 4-dr HT.
1969 Mercury Marquis 2-dr HT.
1955 Cadillac series 62 2-dr HT Cpe.
1956 Chevrolet Belair 4-dr Sedan.
1977 Lincoln Continental Mark V.
1994 Ford Mustang GT V8
2003 Audi A4 TDI Estate
2005 Ford Transit
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Anonymous
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Gringo
