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Posted: Thu Oct 27, 11 10:08 am
by ANTON
Those area are where the frame connects to the back panel and I would have thought if you have any intention of using your bumper jack in the future that they need be pretty strong or you will be jacking the car up and bend the boot floor or if someone drive into the back of you the back will fold up.
Cut back till the metal is good and fold a new section up and weld it in with an internal gusset spot welded to the frame rail and the seam weld it to the trunk floor and put all the strength back in. That also quite close to where the rear spring hanger is so you need it to be strong.

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 11 10:42 am
by Pete
I would be tempted to inboard the springs (if you are allowed) and re-make all the metal to the rear to suit..............
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 11 10:43 am
by Dave-R
I think folding two halfs and seam welding them down the middle is probably the easiest way of recreating them with basic garage tools. ie vice and hammer.
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 11 10:45 am
by Dave-R
ANTON wrote:I would have thought if you have any intention of using your bumper jack in the future
Bumper jack??

Are you mad Anton!
I wouldn't trust one of those no matter how strong the car was. In fact a strong chassis is just going to hurt more when the jack fails and the whole lot comes down on your head.

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 11:17 am
by autofetish
Dave wrote:I think folding two halfs and seam welding them down the middle is probably the easiest way of recreating them with basic garage tools. ie vice and hammer.
Think i will go for this first walk before i can run
Dave is this what you mean made from 2 parts and joint down the middle
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 11:54 am
by Dave-R
Dave is this what you mean made from 2 parts and joint down the middle
Yes because to bend a complete chassis rail with just a vice and a hammer is going to be tricky as it is a lot more narrow than your bit of card.
Also if you do not have steel hole cutters it would be easier to drill and file the holes in two halves too before welding together.
It depends on what tools are available to you. I have made chassis sections and patch panels for the body by using nothing more complex than an angle grinder and steel hammered over the edge of a concrete step.
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 12:02 pm
by Dave-R
If you have access to decent sheet metal equipment this is not necessary.
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 12:48 pm
by autofetish
Perfect thanks

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 1:06 pm
by Dave-R
Or variations thereof....
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 1:08 pm
by morgan
I just want to say I think thats an awesome job Will.
I spent 3 months on my back under the car with a hand scraper to get the gunk off mine (before carefully putting it all back on again

) - your rotisserie is the stuff of dreams. Man that would have made light work of it.
You are really tearing into it. Keep it up with the pics.

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 1:12 pm
by Dave81
Looks like your really getting stuick in Will!!
Keep it up mate!!

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 11 2:29 pm
by Jon Connolly
Well done Wil
I`d go for Dave`s folded paper option 1 if I was you .. you`ll get a better easier weld and easier profile to make accurately

Posted: Mon Oct 31, 11 2:01 pm
by autofetish
Over the weekend the car was dropped off at the sand blasting shop.
Just hope car does not come back in a bag now

Posted: Mon Oct 31, 11 3:27 pm
by Dave-R
The holes are probably for something during construction but also for drainage. Use primer on the inside if you want but I would spray the inside of the whole chassis with a rust converter followed by a rust preventative wax.
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 11 3:36 pm
by morgan
Seen 'em much crustier than that pre-blasting.
I think she looks pretty good. I dread to imagine whats under the paint of some of them (I know I dont wanna know

)
Looking forward to pics... !