db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

db · Post by db » Mon Feb 27, 12 10:07 am

Dave, if you go back a page you'll see the trans crossmember. I know it's bolt-in but is pretty chunky so hopefully will be ok?
Also you can see the tubular front K-member i've made. Hopefully this along with the motorplate will be up to the job, the full cage creates a lot of rigidity too- if i jack one front corner, the other comes up almost even- there's no twist at all!
I know driving forces are a lot more... persuasive... but we'll see. I can always add more metal at a later date.

I've yet to put in some sort of crossmember between the front 4-link mounts, any thoughts?

db · Post by db » Mon Feb 27, 12 9:21 pm

Time on your hands is a dangerous thing...

I've only gone and bare-metalled me bulkhead

It'll get the DE-OX and POR15 treatment tomorrow.

I'm gonna paint it body-colour, it doesn't have to be a great finish, so i'll use an aerosol.
Main thing i'm after is rust protection so... should i first hit it with Zinc primer, Gravitex stone-chip or something else?

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Feb 27, 12 9:39 pm

looks great I'm painting mine the Ivor way check out his website for info.

What did you use to get it to bare metal does not look like a grinder job

db · Post by db » Mon Feb 27, 12 10:41 pm

Wire cup brush in a grinder for the accessible bits, various smaller wire brushes in a drill for the more fiddly bits, then Nitromors to finish. Hard going but effective

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Feb 28, 12 7:41 am

Great stuff as aways

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Tue Feb 28, 12 8:24 am

I did mine the other year when i took the inner wings out, i did as you have, then etch primed it, normal primer over the top and body colour then lacquer to finish, all out of cans.
Mick

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Tue Feb 28, 12 8:38 am

Hey db

Looking good I did that to mine last year and I am well chuffed how it turned out. Derek sprayed it for me with rattle can and it came out perfect.
Do your self a favour undo the four bolts the hold the master cylinder on and lean it forward and you will get a great job without having to mask it all up.

db · Post by db » Tue Feb 28, 12 12:59 pm

Mick- ta for the reassurance!
Anton- ta for the tip i'll do that. It been a right pain trying to work round it, i wish i'd thought of it sooner

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Tue Feb 28, 12 1:02 pm

If you want to do it body colour take the trunk lid to a good paint shop and the will match it and put it in rattle cans.

the bishop · Post by **the bishop** » Tue Feb 28, 12 2:04 pm

I've had rubbish results with POR 15 and I've followed the instructions to the letter... on a nice clean bulkhead like that it deffo wouldn't be my first choice! I think Mick's idea of etch priming would work best

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Tue Feb 28, 12 2:46 pm

Yep, another vote for etch primer here, you can get that in rattle cans and as long as you buy good quality stuff, it'll be fine, just one or one and a half coats, let it flash off for half an hour (air dry) then straight on with a primer.

Let the primer dry completely then give it a nice smooth rub over with a grey Scotcbrite (lessens you chances of rubbing through on the lumps and bumps in the bulkhead) just to key it for topcoating and that should be fine for an engine bay.

db · Post by db » Tue Feb 28, 12 4:18 pm

Hi Bish-
I don't mean Por15 paint i mean 'Metal-Ready' rust preventative. Great stuff, easy to use too.
You need to shift the worst of the rust, them just use a hand pump sprayer. Don't let it dry, give it all another squirt evey 20 mins or so then after an hour or two rinse it & dry it.
It leaves an etch primed surface, ready for primer/ paint

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/metalreadyreg.pdf

Thanks Ivor

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Feb 29, 12 9:57 am

db wrote:Dave, if you go back a page you'll see the trans crossmember. I know it's bolt-in but is pretty chunky so hopefully will be ok?
Also you can see the tubular front K-member i've made. Hopefully this along with the motorplate will be up to the job, the full cage creates a lot of rigidity too- if i jack one front corner, the other comes up almost even- there's no twist at all!
I know driving forces are a lot more... persuasive... but we'll see. I can always add more metal at a later date.

I've yet to put in some sort of crossmember between the front 4-link mounts, any thoughts?

ooops

yes

forgot.....

think anything you put in to make it a ridgid box will allow the suspension to do its job more efficiently...actually make use of the shocks and springs as intended....

obvioulsy this needs to be offset againts how heavy you could make it by welding extra bits

Dave