Mopar Muscle Association UK

Mossy68 wrote:What was the PTW again Carl ??????

Arr 0.00000.05.00 Bananarama!

[quote="Les Szabo"]yes not hard is it, just attention to detail and clean clean clean!...we used Molybdonem sulphide I think it was called, on the bearing surfaces way back then, sort of helped run it in quick ....and then changed the oil....did you check PTV with that new cam?[/quote]

Not yet Les. Got to Dial cam in next then I will put a head on to check PTV I have to measure correct pushrod length, I am probably going to need to get new pushrods too

I haven't caught up with this thread for a while... great progress and top quality work

only a reminder Carl, I'm sure you would've done it.....Les

Les Szabo wrote:only a reminder Carl, I'm sure you would've done it.....Les

No worries Les I know where your coming from mate, its easy to skip those details in anticipation to get it running, then end up with problems like im dealing with now, so it doesn't hurt to be reminded.

Simpleton question time again........

Am I right in thinking then, that your first fire up would also be the cam break in at 20 min @ 2000+ RPM?

Would you normally put new pistons under load like that if you were just dropping in new ones and retaining the old cam (as in do you need to do the same break in with the pistons, rings etc)??

Just interested....nothing sinister!!

db wrote:I haven't caught up with this thread for a while... great progress and top quality work

Thanks Paul

Dave81 wrote:Simpleton question time again........

Am I right in thinking then, that your first fire up would also be the cam break in at 20 min @ 2000+ RPM?

Would you normally put new pistons under load like that if you were just dropping in new ones and retaining the old cam (as in do you need to do the same break in with the pistons, rings etc)??

Just interested....nothing sinister!!

In short, yes. But there are differences in opinion on the way the rings should be broke in, some say break them in gently keeping revs quite low, but I was taught hit em hard, start engine and run on fast idle until it is at operating temp, change oil and filter drive it quite hard on and off throttle. Basically all you are doing is rubbing off any high spots so the rings seat properly. Others may have a different method, but that's the way I do it.

My bike was run in on the dyno !
Bananarama! myself whilst it was on there. Didn't go bang , so I guess I built it ok.

To break engine in drive the tits out of it

Lmfao


Carl

Legend !!

Whilst on the subject of running in.
When the Honda Fireblade was first introduced , 2 were obtained new. One was run in to manufacturers recommendation , and the other thrashed within an inch of its life.
After the 500 mile or so running in period both bikes were put on a Dyno.
The thrashed one made over 10 rear wheel bhp than the other , with a much smoother torque curve.
Which was first to the scrap heap I have no idea. Interesting though.

Sorry Carl. Little hi jack

Rings need to be bedded in fast or they glaze and don't seal as well as they might. For that reason I only oil the bores with WD40 or ATF, you don't want too much lubrication, the rings will bed in in minutes.

Mossy68 wrote:Whilst on the subject of running in.
When the Honda Fireblade was first introduced , 2 were obtained new. One was run in to manufacturers recommendation , and the other thrashed within an inch of its life.
After the 500 mile or so running in period both bikes were put on a Dyno.
The thrashed one made over 10 rear wheel bhp than the other , with a much smoother torque curve.
Which was first to the scrap heap I have no idea. Interesting though.

Sorry Carl. Little hi jack

Which also goes along similar lines of race motors going faster towards the end of there lives or when close to refresh time. A loose motor is a fast one (but not for long!!!)

Agreed, they always go fastest just before they go bang!