Mopar Muscle Association UK

I found out today I'd been labouring with a Ford alternator all these years! The bracket that held it fits a 383 (my original engine) but not a 440 so, my Jensen 383 was duly stripped of its brackets and a new alternator donated (thanks Rogue Trooper) problem solved.

Second problem was the new headers (of course) don't clear the starter motor! high torque mini starter to be ordered Tuesday, problem solved.

A bigger problem however has manifested itself...

New hood, having been drilled for hood pins. I haven't a clue what orientation the bezels should be, Tony O told me ages ago but I can't remember so I just did what looked best.

The reason why my car is so jacked up at the back To be fixed ASAP

The main problem, is that the Milodon oil pan fouls on the drag link. I don't really want to hammer the sump, but I must admit I haven't got any idea of an alternative right now

any suggestions?

put some steel packers between the engine mounts and engine plates

Thanks Duncan. From memory there's about 3/4 inch of room to do that before the bellhousing hits the trans tunnel.

MetalChuckKey wrote:Thanks Duncan. From memory there's about 3/4 inch of room to do that before the bellhousing hits the trans tunnel.

you should be ok then the steer link needs very little clearance

Got pulled on the MOT last week , when on full lock (one way only) my centre link hits the back of sump , already turned it 180*.

Where'd you get your rallye hood, for future reference?

Regarding the drag link hitting the oil pan, my E body knowledge is not that good so I might be talking ball cocks here, but do they use a straight drag link for 6 cylinder applications and a dropped one for the V8's? That's how it is on A bodies and it might be your problem.

bananaskin wrote:Where'd you get your rallye hood, for future reference?

Year One. A bargain until UPS and the UK government gets hold of it. I got put through the wringer on that one, it was about £1050 by the time it got to me along with the trim that goes along the front and some stickers.

Blue wrote:Regarding the drag link hitting the oil pan, my E body knowledge is not that good so I might be talking ball cocks here, but do they use a straight drag link for 6 cylinder applications and a dropped one for the V8's? That's how it is on A bodies and it might be your problem.

I think it remains straight on all Challengers, I checked Mark's Challenger just now at Brooklands (Mark it was me that crawled right under your car into a puddle to take a pic!) and the drag link seems straight, but there's about 1/4" clearance between the sump and the link.

I could have a dropped one made up out of billet, but it's time and money. I'm well surprised the likes of Summit don't sell this sort of thing, it must be a common issue. I think Duncan's method is the way to go providing the stud on the engine mount is long enough to bolt through everything.

MetalChuckKey wrote:

bananaskin wrote:Where'd you get your rallye hood, for future reference?

Year One. A bargain until UPS and the UK government gets hold of it. I got put through the wringer on that one, it was about £1050 by the time it got to me along with the trim that goes along the front and some stickers.

Did you get hood inserts as well, because i know they are not cheap

Not that time. I got those and the aluminium trim pieces from Rich Firestone http://www.mopar9999.com/ who is a great guy. Stuff is cheaper in many cases than YO, arrives quicker and cheaper. He doesn't quite have YO's choice however.

Right, well nothing's happened since last time I posted. The pic shows they got time to try and prime the pump before they hit a problem with the oiling system. Note the Haynes manual.

So they moved onto the suspension (see a few posts back as the car has been tubbed and the springs are inboard). I phoned recently to learn that had stopped too, as moving the rear springs to their original mountings meant the springs fouled the back tyres and hubs.

After a tape measure was used, turns out I have an A-body rear axle!



So the springs are going inboard again and I'm going to fit a lowering block kit as a temporary measure. The thing looks like a 4x4 at the moment.