Mopar Muscle Association UK

1968Polara383 wrote:Thanks for advice, my stock compression on my 383 4bbl is down as 10:1 so hot sure if this is classed as high comp or not....I know its not by the specs of some cars on here!! Ive been in touch with Jon at FBO who is going to get me one of those variable plates and Im going to give it a go!

Cheers Steve

PS what is kick back??

Steve, before you adjust anything write down what your ignition timing is set at now so you have a figure to put it back to if it goes tits up. Also mark a line with tippex exactly where the dizzy is fixed before you decide to move it. Might seem an obvious thing to some but its easy to jump in with both feet then realise you never took swimming lessons.

db

Your original TDC score on the damper seems to be quite alot different to the new one you have created are you sure that you had perfect TDC before you marked the damper. How did you find TDC because there is alot of piston dwell at the to of the piston stroke so you can be quite alot out if you are not careful.

Thats great advice Ade, was goin to score a really fine line between dist and housing before I do anything!!! Just been checking out the pics etc on this post and got a little query... As i dont know what the markings on my timing bracket mean, would I be correct in saying that if I use the timing mark on the flywheel as TDC, measure the circumference of the flywheel in mm, divide by 360, paint and mark degs from timing mark, I can then get the no1 piston to the top of its stroke on the correct cycle using a rod or similar as a piston stop in plug hole 1 and where my TDC mark on flywheel meets the bracket, I can mark it as a new, accurate TDC mark?? Theoretically it should line up with the manufacturers TDC mark on the bracket and will clarify which one it is. Then I wont have to work out what the notches on the bracket mean as I will have the degrees marked on the flywheel. Then i just set the timing after ive plugged the vac advance by rotating the dist to get the desired painted on degree mark to line up with the TDC mark on the bracket?? Am I getting there or have I just confused the Bananarama! out of myself????

Cheers

Take a gander at this Steve

Got it.... Thanks Ade, nothing like being shown!! I understand whats going on now, great video for an idiot, i mean layman like me!

Cheers steve

charger01 wrote:Take a gander at this Steve

That is pretty good.

1968Polara383 wrote:Got it.... Thanks Ade, nothing like being shown!! I understand whats going on now, great video for an idiot, i mean layman like me!

Cheers steve

You will find that taking apart the stock distributor is not as easy as those MSD units which are based on the Chevy design. But a little patience will get you there.

Thanks Dave. Im going to get a grip of setting timing and fitting the kit from FBO before I confuse things by trying to take springs out etc... Baby steps etc... Ive got the original dist to have a play with when it comes time to get stuck in.

Ive definately learned a ton over the past few days on this thread, thanks for you patience everyone and sorry for the thread hijack. On hindsight, I should have started a new on titled "timing virgin"

ANTON wrote:db

Your original TDC score on the damper seems to be quite alot different to the new one you have created are you sure that you had perfect TDC before you marked the damper. How did you find TDC because there is alot of piston dwell at the to of the piston stroke so you can be quite alot out if you are not careful.

I used the piston stop. I turned the motor back and forth a couple of times to be sure i was getting a true position, then marked the centre of the two. Remember i've swapped water pumps so i now have to use the bolt-on tab on the left rather than the cast markings on the right

The usual trick is to completely remove the spark plug centre, insert a floating rod and screw the plug in so that you can measure or observe the rise and fall of the floating rod as it sits on the top of the piston (having made sure it does not get trapped!).

Also to note the compression stroke first so that you don't get the dizzy in 180 degrees out.............

That sounds like a good, easy to make and have in the tool kit! As a general rule of thumb, how long would you suggest the rod is, beyond the depth of the bore and the length of the plug? Also, Ive never hand cranked an engine, any tips on how to do this for a newbie like me? Would I just use a socket and bar or special tools? Would I have to remove all the plugs to relieve compression when turning by hand?

Thanks Steve

Steve, if your engine is completely stock, and considering what you are trying to do, then you don't have to worry about checking the position of TDC. The center of the tab will be 0 degrees. It will probably have a hole in it.

And make sure you know which is #1 cylinder. It is the most forward one on the left side of the engine (right side when you are stood at the front of the car looking at the engine).

And follow Pete's advice about making sure you know which way the rotor was pointing when you remove the distributor.

Thanks Dave, thats answered my problem re not knowing which mark is TDC on the stock bracket so I dont need to do any working out. Looking forward to having a go when I get the plate from Jon at FBO when back in stock..... Brace youselves for another thread!!!

Cheers