The bowl work in picture two is what Len (cylinder head shop) told me is very important to do to de-shroud the spark plug. Hopefully my valves will be totally de-shrouded by the 5 angle valve job I having done at the moment. I will post pictures once I get the heads back.
Posted: Fri May 14, 10 1:49 pm
by Dave-R
ANTON wrote:The bowl work in picture two is what Len (cylinder head shop) told me is very important to do to de-shroud the spark plug. Hopefully my valves will be totally de-shrouded by the 5 angle valve job I having done at the moment. I will post pictures once I get the heads back.
Nothing to do with the spark plug. De-shrouding gives more room around the valve for better airflow close to the side of the chamber and the top of the cylinder. For better airflow while the valve is not fully open. You can match the chamber shape to the head gasket in this area around the back of the valves.
When you de-shroud the valves you should also chamfer the top of the cylinder to match. Again using the head gasket as a template but only go half way down to where the top ring stops.
ANTON wrote:The bowl work in picture two is what Len (cylinder head shop) told me is very important to do to de-shroud the spark plug. Hopefully my valves will be totally de-shrouded by the 5 angle valve job I having done at the moment. I will post pictures once I get the heads back.
Nothing to do with the spark plug. De-shrouding gives more room around the valve for better airflow close to the side of the chamber and the top of the cylinder. For better airflow while the valve is not fully open. You can match the chamber shape to the head gasket in this area around the back of the valves.
When you de-shroud the valves you should also chamfer the top of the cylinder to match. Again using the head gasket as a template but only go half way down to where the top ring stops.
Perfect explanation Dave.
Anton , are you opening the chamber around intake valve? , as Dave says gasket match the chamber , notch the bores & dimple the pistons , maybe think about grooving the chamber between int/ex valves out towards the squish pad (helps regards knock) , what is the reasoning behind cutting around spark plug area? , maybe something to do with keeping this area clean & free from carbon build up?
Spark plug type will play a part regards cutting chamber around spark plug area , if using the projected type plug (as most do) i don't think you will see any benefit.
Good to see all the hard work you are putting into this new build , can only net good results , keep on keepin on.
Posted: Sat May 15, 10 10:53 am
by GTXJim
Anton, did you see my heads down at the cylinder head shop, they are having quite a bit of work done, He's a very cleaver bloke Len and a very nice workshop.
Posted: Sat May 15, 10 5:32 pm
by ANTON
GTXJim wrote:Anton, did you see my heads down at the cylinder head shop, they are having quite a bit of work done, He's a very cleaver bloke Len and a very nice workshop.
Yes i did see your heads and len was busy working on them. He was very impressed but the size of your engine(how many litres). I will be picking my heads up week after next.
Posted: Sat May 22, 10 7:13 am
by Anonymous
Nine litres, nearly double what you've got Anton!
(Yu need a 472 stroker kit methinks)
Won't go twice as fast though?
Will you be using some N2o on your 318?
If not you're gonna haf to shed some seroius weight if yu wanna run an 11!
Baaca, sheep free at last!
Posted: Thu May 27, 10 10:02 pm
by ANTON
I have added a touch to my car to make it easier to get into the trunk when the car is warming up and should stop the chance of locking the keys in the trunk.
Here is a video of it working
Posted: Thu May 27, 10 10:17 pm
by latil
Nice touch Mine has a solenoid/rod setup that may or may not be original although the chrome centre console button looks correct!
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 10 10:14 pm
by ANTON
since I last posted I have dialed in the cam. The comp cam chain and sprocket I was using caused all sorts of problems. When installed correctly the timing was out 6 degrees so the only way I could get 106' centre line as the spec sheet said was to set the sprockets up to full retard and then move the came on tooth on the chain and then it was perfect. I wasn't happy to do this so Baccaman brought a spare chain and sprocket kit over that he had and we put that on and it was 105' first time so I traded some bits with baccaman for his chain and sprocket. Now with the timing done and the heads ready to go and have the new larger valves installed.
I got the heads back last Monday and and Len(Cylinder head shop) could only do a 3 angle valve job as the 5 angle job would have cut into the exhaust valve seat. I been porting the heads and doing the bowl work and I should be done tomorrow and the Baccaman and cc the heads and skim then till I have 60cc chamber and then I can build the heads up and finish the engine.
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 10 10:53 pm
by Derek
You have been busy.
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 10 11:01 pm
by Guy
Thats some degree wheel you have there
Posted: Sun Jun 06, 10 2:37 pm
by ANTON
I finally finished porting the heads and doing the bowl work and lapping the valves in. It is such a dirty job but very for filling when it is done and here are the photos of my handy work. I total the porting has taken about 40-45 hours to get to this stage and lots of cartridge rolls of all grades. All that if left is to cc the cambers and skim the heads till the chambers are 60cc's
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 10 1:23 pm
by ANTON
Guy wrote:Thats some degree wheel you have there
I didn't want to waste money on buying a degree wheel that I would use one or twice and while I was making one I made a big one.
