Page 26 of 63

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 12 11:50 am
by sinny
Nice touch on the tank Will. You're steaming ahead! :shock:

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 12 12:23 pm
by autofetish
Dave999 wrote:heater

wipers

dash

headlining

windcsreen

transmission

Dave

:salute: :salute: :salute: :salute: :salute: :salute: :salute:

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 12 1:13 pm
by RobTwin
or you could do everything arse about face like we do :roll:

:lol:

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 12 6:05 pm
by ANTON
Fire wall insulation and under dash insulation
Heater
Wipers
Dash frame with dash pad on
Pedal box
Brake servo
Fresh air vent
Foot brake and cable
All wiring
Speaker
Ash tray
Glove box and lid
Dash
Headliner
Windscreen
Carpet
And colomn last before the seat go in

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 12 8:46 am
by autofetish
:o :read2: :thumbright: :runaway!:

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 12 9:09 pm
by autofetish
I think i say i can Mig weld now. So i brought a tig welder to master. Its a ACDC Square wave machine with 210 amps. Hoping when i master it will help to make some custom bit for the car.

I find alu welding easy but having trobble with normal steel :scratch:

Got door handels and locks in

Rubber seals in

Doors wont shut and well out of alignment with seal on. Hinge ajustment i take it

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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 12 3:09 pm
by Roger
[quote="autofetish"]I think i say i can Mig weld now. So i brought a tig welder to master. Its a ACDC Square wave machine with 210 amps. Hoping when i master it will help to make some custom bit for the car.

I find alu welding easy but having trobble with normal steel :scratch:

Got door handels and locks in

Rubber seals in

Doors wont shut and well out of alignment with seal on. Hinge ajustment i take it
[quote]




I assume it will be the area where the 2 seals overlap at the top leading edge of the door thats your problem. Forces the opposite corner to sit proud i.e. bottom trailing edge.

1st, dont even bother until the windows are fitted as the door is to floppy without the 1/4 light.

Once that is in, i "adjusted" the overlap are of the door with a hammer to increase the clearance. Antons suggestion that one :)

My doors fit perfectly now.

1968 dodge charger petrol tank

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 12 9:52 pm
by autofetish
:thumbright:

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 12 10:36 pm
by Cannonball
i reckon the springs look great matey,

your doin a cracking job with it all

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 12 10:19 am
by Roger
May be my post wasn't clear, but it was the lower trailing edge on mine that stuck out - until i adjusted it. Pics?

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 12 11:43 am
by autofetish
Roger wrote:May be my post wasn't clear, but it was the lower trailing edge on mine that stuck out - until i adjusted it. Pics?
:idea1: sorry now the penny has droped :thumbright:

hit inside of door where seals are to make more space for seals.

That will bring the trailing edge in good think :thumbright:

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 12 7:19 pm
by Roger
autofetish wrote:
Roger wrote:May be my post wasn't clear, but it was the lower trailing edge on mine that stuck out - until i adjusted it. Pics?
:idea1: sorry now the penny has droped :thumbright:

hit inside of door where seals are to make more space for seals.

That will bring the trailing edge in good think :thumbright:
Correct. But still wait until the windows are in.

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 12 2:42 pm
by autofetish
Thanks Roger will do.





Engine block 440

Bore to 30 over still needs a honing big ends are billet Keith Black maincaps block has been lined bored.

Plan is to go 8:1 compression and install a blower.

This is not going to happen over night due to $$$$$

But should be nice when finshed.

Dont have anything internal as of yet still looking shopping around.

trying to work out if im up to building it myself

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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 12 4:14 pm
by VGVIP
You are always busy!
Good for you... I am jealous of your quality of work and the pace of it.
Well done, keep it up.

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 12 4:17 pm
by Ivor
Great stuff Will.

The general consensus is that you bore with torque plates, but if you've already done it, don't worry! ;)