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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 08 12:18 pm
by Dave-R
challenger wrote:the way you have the bumper bracket bolts in is identical to how the factory ones would have looked , just captive nuts on the inside of the chassis thats how mine are anyway

Ah! Thanks!
I almost did them as studs because two of them had been cobbled on like that and I thought maybe that is how they should be. But then I realised that captive nuts would be better so did it that way.
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 08 9:52 pm
by Dave-R
Sorry Pete. Didn't have time to clean that relay tonight.
Decided to have a argument with wor lass instead.
It looks better with the fenders on again. But still weeks of work to do even if I can keep well enough.
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 08 9:53 pm
by Dave-R
BTW I hate that bling top hose thing. But my cobbled together rubber one looked even worse. Not sure what to do with it.

Posted: Tue Jul 01, 08 10:20 pm
by Anonymous
Looking good Dave.
Love the idea to mount a fuse box and relays, think when i have the wiring on the charger done in the winter a may do something simalar under my battery tray.
Oh, Dave lose the bling top hose, cant you get a flexi rubber one for now?
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 08 11:28 pm
by Dave-R
Don't like flexy rubber ones either. They remind me of a sex toy a rather large girl in my old local demonstrated for us once.

Posted: Wed Jul 02, 08 12:34 am
by mopar_mark
Dave wrote:Don't like flexy rubber ones either. They remind me of a sex toy a rather large girl in my old local demonstrated for us once.

Sorry, mate, but the big sex toy is better in my book than the vacuum cleaner hose

Posted: Wed Jul 02, 08 8:04 am
by latil
Both those options are better than those blue silicon ones the jap tuners use.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 08 8:38 am
by RobTwin
Sorry if I'm being thick as usual

but what's wrong with a std (rubber) rad hose? Is it cos of the non-std rad requires a longer hose?
Praps go the Adam/Alan in-line filter route.....

Posted: Wed Jul 02, 08 8:55 am
by Dave-R
Yes the top hose is longer than stock.
I have got around this in the past by butt joining two hoses together with a bit of steel pipe and a couple of jubilee clips.
I think I will put that on again. But a short length of exposed stainless steel tube might look better.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 08 11:02 pm
by MrNorm
FWIW, here is a pic of the original bumper bracket bolts - as mentioned they had captive nuts inside the chassis rails. Note the teeth on the washers and the thickness. I'd plan to duplicate the latter at least
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 08 1:12 am
by Kev
Kiwi has a superb fan switch sender built into a pipe in the top rad hose. It looks the nuts and is adjustable via a small pot. Doesn't leak like the top hose capillary and huge ugly gas oven like knob malarkey. Can't remember the make or anything. Could solve the problem of splicing the hoses and looks like you meant it......
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 08 1:16 am
by Kev
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 08 5:25 am
by Guy
Thats is a real nice bit of kit Kev thanks

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 08 9:16 am
by Dave-R
My problem there is that I already have a fan switch screwed into the water pump housing where one of the heater pipes would have gone.
Just a nice bit of stainless that sort of length would do. I can weld on a lip at each end to grip the hose.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 08 10:45 am
by the dodge
that is a nice peice of kit, seeing as ive got another rad with a electric fan fitted, what is the size of the top hose for a 318 engine anybody?