TIMING TAPE URGENT PLEASE!!

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Apr 21, 12 2:12 pm

Now to give a little back..... Www.msdpower.co.uk stock MSD timing tapes in a pack for a variety of sized balancers for just under £6 a pack delivered.. Listed as part number MSD8985. Not sure how to put link on a thread. Im about as good with computers as I am with a timing light!

Cheers, Steve

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Fri Apr 27, 12 9:08 pm

Ive purchased some MSD timing tape as I dont trust myself to mark balancer properly

If anyone wants me to mail them a 1:1 copy just to get an idea of where the marks should go on a painted damper etc, just PM me your email and I will forward it for you,

Cheers Steve

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Apr 27, 12 9:15 pm

The issue on an old car with a stock damper is that the outer damper COULD have slipped on the inner at the Rubber joins, so the timing marks are actually in the wrong place. In this case there is no point attaching the timing tape..........

This is where you NEED the TDC tool mentioned in the threads so that you KNOW the timing marks on the damper are correct. If not, then replace the damper. I have seen the damage when one parts company..........

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Fri Apr 27, 12 9:23 pm

Thanks mate, Ive made a piston stop and am going make sure the TDC mark on the damper lines up with the hole in the bracket. When Im sure the mark is accurate, or I find where the new mark should be if its slipped, I will put the tape on.

Cheers Steve

db · Post by db » Sat Apr 28, 12 12:56 pm

1968Polara383 wrote:That sounds like a good, easy to make and have in the tool kit! As a general rule of thumb, how long would you suggest the rod is, beyond the depth of the bore and the length of the plug? Also, Ive never hand cranked an engine, any tips on how to do this for a newbie like me? Would I just use a socket and bar or special tools? Would I have to remove all the plugs to relieve compression when turning by hand?

Thanks Steve

You need about 1 1/2" sticking out past the threads.
Grind the bolt head so it's rounded off and smaller than the thread i.d.

To hand crank take all the plugs out, I think I used a 29mm deep socket on a long ratchet bar.

Turn it gently! I had to go back and forth a couple of times to get a true reading.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Apr 28, 12 1:11 pm

Thanks mate, i made mine much longer just till I found out exactly what to do. Figured easier to cut it down than add a bit or lose it in the engine!!

Cheers Steve

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Sat Apr 28, 12 4:47 pm

When I made mine I drilled the centre out of the spark plug and welded a nut to what was left and the I used a bolt and that gave me an adjustable piston stop tool.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Fri May 18, 12 8:55 pm

Hi Gents.....

Very frustrating day and given up for this evening

Ive had a go at sorting out timing etc according to this thread just to get the correct settings for the fuel etc. Ive got an advance limit plate from Jon at FBO and had a go earlier. Any ideas what Im doin wrong???

Filled up with fuel I normally use, engine warm, idle speed set to 650rpm as per manual. Disconnected vac advance at dist and plugged... checked initial timing and showing 34 deg!!! Ive loosened the dist and advanced timing until revs levelled off and gone to over 40 deg! Set engine to 3000 rpm....54 deg! Tried reattaching the vac and didnt make any difference, readings the same. Been test driving car at each stage and shes coughing a bit, like an intermittent miss listening to exhaust, especially at the higher 3000 rpm. Best I can get is down to 28 deg initial but got dark before I could check total advance.

She starts fine without any throttle when warm but just doesnt feel right...

Any ideas for me to ponder this eve before another go tomw??

Is it worth advancing loads, beyond the peak in revs and beyond it feeling Bananarama! to see what happens and retarding same to see what happens although I know its just not right. Im happy the engine revs are peaking where I think they are but when I stop there, initial timing is showing 34 deg ....

Cant believe if this is right, the FBO plate should go on at zero deg total advance!!!! Just cant be right....

Quite happy the TDC mark on balancer is ok....

Any thoughts ?

Cheers Steve

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat May 19, 12 5:06 pm

Got up this morning with renewed enthusiasm and after a couple of PMs thanks Ade AKA Charger01), I got stuck in again.....

Warmed car up, set idle to 750rpm, disconnected vac line at dist and plugged it. Loosened dist and turned clockwise till revs picked up and leveled out..... 36 deg initial.. 54 deg total. Put back together and ran like Bananarama!....backed initial off to 20 deg initial 38deg total, again ran like Bananarama! so I know Im somewhere between these settings.....eventually she idled and pulled ok at 26 deg initial with around 46 deg total. Having the vac line attached or off didnt make any difference ????

Pulled the distributor out to put FBO plate in and found it looked completely different to the one I had practised on!!!! Looks like it already had some sort of limiter plate already on.....Emailed Jon (Turnip) a pic and he told me that it did look like it already had a some kind of plate on. Had to put her all back together as kids wanted some attention. Fired Up straight away and just left her at 26 deg initial.

Ive adjusted the idle down to 700rpm and set the idle mixture and going to see how she runs like that for a while. Doesnt seem quite as good as pre adjustment but at least I know how to change timing now so can have a play when I need to and feel much more confident.

Just one last question... checked the plugs after all this messing and they were quite sooted up. She had been idling for ages and I assume thats why. Took her for a blast for about 5 miles and checked plugs again. Still sooty but edges of the electrodes had started to go that nice coffee colour...do you think she just needs a good run now to clear all the muck out?

cheers Steve

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Sat May 19, 12 5:21 pm

you might have an issue running that much timing 36 deg int is way too much you should only need between 12-16 and the total no more than 36 deg.

You need to set the timing before you mess with your carb. Once the timing is set you will need to re tune your carb to achive a nice clean idle, you will be chasing yourself for ever doing it the other way around.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat May 19, 12 5:39 pm

Thanks Guy, problem Im having is that if I back the timing off anything less than 20deg initial she just starts huffing anf puffing, engine revs drop off and she just wants to stall. Ive followed everyones advice about turning the distributor till the revs peak and Im at 34 deg with vac plugged etc. Ive had to back off a bit as I know its way too much but cant go any less as she just wants to stall. Do you suggest trying 12 deg initial and see what happens??
I set the idle mixture after I had settled on the timing I have for now... Whats the best way to do that do you think?

Thanks Steve

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Sat May 19, 12 6:12 pm

If the motor is stock or even in a mild state of tune the revs should not drop off unless you have another issue such as a vacuum leak.

Are you going to Avon Park next week if so I can have a look for you then if you wish.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat May 19, 12 6:39 pm

Hi Guy,

Thats a really kind offer mate!! I am going and if you have time to look that would be brilliant... Think I need someone with experience to point me in the right direction! I will PM you my number if thats ok and maybe we could arrange a meet and a beer??

Thanks again Guy,

All the best Steve

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Sat May 19, 12 6:44 pm

More than happy to help you out Steve, I will be there Friday till Sunday I will pack some tools

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat May 19, 12 7:28 pm

Thaks Guy, got your number as per PM s and look forward to meeting you next weekend,

Cheers Steve