Stroker rebuild
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Thanks again for the top advice guys. Well have no choice to stick to original plan at the mo, which was to re hone, difference is now I will have to stick to iron rings so I can use 280 grit and hopefully will get rid of the scoring without going too heavy. Molly rings will need a finer cut, I could try 400 grit first to see if that removes the scoring. Or I could cut my loses with this one if it looks like I could be spending a lot of money on a lemon. Sometimes you have to admit an engines had its day.
Other options are another block but finding a good 340 block aint gonna be easy so not really an option. 360 maybe?
But if im going to head in that direction I might as well go 440 sell the stroker kit and spend the money I would of spent on the 340 plus what I could sell the stroker for on a 440 conversion. Hmm decisions.
Dunc what you do with that Jenson SP lump?
Other options are another block but finding a good 340 block aint gonna be easy so not really an option. 360 maybe?
But if im going to head in that direction I might as well go 440 sell the stroker kit and spend the money I would of spent on the 340 plus what I could sell the stroker for on a 440 conversion. Hmm decisions.
Dunc what you do with that Jenson SP lump?
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- Adrian Worman
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Im looking at the long term rather than the cost now Pete. Ive come to a point where im thinking is it worth my while ploughing hundreds of pounds into that engine or turn the car into a project and pump the money into something that's worthwhile rather than waste money on an engine that still might be no good or have a short life span?
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The only way I can see that motor being as good as it potentially can be is with an overbore, (sonic checked), new pistons, the correct bore finish, proper material rings that you can gap correctly, the cam you really wanted etc....everything else you already have, there's plenty of HP in those heads you have if ported well, enough for 500hp+ and monster torque. Now that would be worth doing and it can still be streetable. Its the best way to go in my opnion.
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticl ... 272006.php
Even if it measures up ok, you may be able to put it back together ok but I'm sure there will be some compromises and I doubt you'll be happy with it in the back of your mind, especially when leaning on it....and that, as you say, is money out the window that could've been spent on a proper build as mentioned, if there's one left in your block.
440 swap will no doubt increase the value of the car, but its expensive and I doubt it will drive as good, and of course the added expense on fuel going to all the meetings etc.etc. for not a lot more hp or torque than a nice 418 depending on what level the 440 is done to. You could just put a near stock motor in it at say 400hp?.
So I reckon, get it all measured up first, see what you can and can't use that should be used for a proper build, get the block checked to see if there's another overbore left in it, then you'll have the facts, probable costs, and then you'll know whether the cost of a 440 swap is worth it, then you can make the "right" decision for you, with all the facts known, but I'm sure know all this.
Les
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticl ... 272006.php
Even if it measures up ok, you may be able to put it back together ok but I'm sure there will be some compromises and I doubt you'll be happy with it in the back of your mind, especially when leaning on it....and that, as you say, is money out the window that could've been spent on a proper build as mentioned, if there's one left in your block.
440 swap will no doubt increase the value of the car, but its expensive and I doubt it will drive as good, and of course the added expense on fuel going to all the meetings etc.etc. for not a lot more hp or torque than a nice 418 depending on what level the 440 is done to. You could just put a near stock motor in it at say 400hp?.
So I reckon, get it all measured up first, see what you can and can't use that should be used for a proper build, get the block checked to see if there's another overbore left in it, then you'll have the facts, probable costs, and then you'll know whether the cost of a 440 swap is worth it, then you can make the "right" decision for you, with all the facts known, but I'm sure know all this.

Les
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And the punches keep on coming...........Sorry to see the bad news on the block and that its maxxed out already.
I'd go with put it back together and just run the gauntlet. Just don't over rev or drag it.
Other option would be to find a 318, pull the 340 and swap them over. Have a running driving Mopar to keep the blood running whilst you build/rebuild a killer motor.
Think the key is to keep it on the road to keep the enthusiasm going!!!!
I'd go with put it back together and just run the gauntlet. Just don't over rev or drag it.
Other option would be to find a 318, pull the 340 and swap them over. Have a running driving Mopar to keep the blood running whilst you build/rebuild a killer motor.
Think the key is to keep it on the road to keep the enthusiasm going!!!!

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72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
- Dave-R
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I am with Blue. Try to be more optimistic.Blue wrote:The scoring on the pistons looks like the bore clearance was too tight, I guess it isn't now. See if the block will clean up with a light hone and then check the bore clearance, if it's somewhere near right I'd put it back together, the pistons don't look badly damaged.
Use a good quality billet timing set and you can get a chain tensioner which is worth fitting. Make sure you degree the cam in, it is well worth the time spent to avoid future problems.

Its already +60 Dave cant go anywhere else with it other than try and clean the bores up and re ring the pistons and hope for the best.DaveBishop wrote:Some early 340s can be bored +60 so nots all lost if you have a block thats +30
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