Mopar Muscle Association UK

By the way. This K&N filter will flow about 900cfm. A stock size K&N filter will only flow around 550-600cfm.
And I thought it was fuel I was getting short of at the top end.....

I cannot get my filter flows within 10% accuacy because of filter and air cleaner design differences.

Discs and brakes fitted.

Mounted a large engine/transmission combo oil cooler this afternoon.

Sandy wrote: I would think sticking the filter up front in the airflow is a good idea.

All the best

Yes it is Sandy. I put it there before the last trip to the Nats with it. I have the pressure regulator there now as well to save on hose.

Not an ideal location in the event of a crash but because it is on the big side and needs mounting it was tricky to plumb when I had it by the fuel pump. This is much easier. But I will now have to run the -8AN braided lines down between the oil cooler and radiator. Which might warm the fuel up a little.

Sometimes you have to compromise. At least the oil cooler will hide most of the hose.

Sandy wrote:I assume the hose from the regulator drops straight down and could run through/behind your new bracket. That would look good.

Correct! That is the intention. Only it is a little too tight further down to get the hose right in. But it will look something rather like this. The hoses run under the bottom of the radiator into the engine bay.
When I dropped the radiator lower I made sure I still had room for hose ends to pass through.

TYREMAN wrote:What about the cooling fan Dave? are you havin electric or the normal belt driven fan i presume?

The other side of that black radiator looks like this.

Been a little while since my last update.
I had a week off the car and am saving for some minor parts to complete some other areas.

So I thought I would do something I have been meaning to make a start on for ages. That is to add some sort of cross member to the existing chassis connectors and incorporate the floor pan for added rigidity.

Because of the GV overdrive unit my propshaft is shorter than stock and the propshaft safety loop ends up 14-inches more to the rear than you would expect.
That happens to be almost exactly half way down the length of the chassis connectors.

So my idea was to extend the safety loop mounting bars so that they can be welded to the chassis connectors and also to the floor (the loop is currently bolted).

Because the trans tunnel does not run down the center of the car (due to the engine offset) one side would need to be extended further than the other.

I was also going to weld small brackets onto the other side of each chassis connector but once the loop was welded in I decided it didn't need them.

I don't have photos of the finished result yet. I banged my head real bad, cutting a small lump of scalp into a flap. Right over where the worst of my brain inflammation is still lingering. So needless to say I have a very bad headache today. So I will finish the welding tomorrow and take a shot of the finished result. But you can imagine what it looks like anyway.

Sandy wrote:

What's the big jubilee clip for ? Around the tail of the GV ?

There is a couple of safety clips making sure the rear seal stays in. The jubilee clip is holding them in place.

Thanks for the remarks.

Here is the finished result.

The bloody spray Hamerite wouldn't spray anything (again - that is the second one. It is expensive enough without only being able to use half) so I had to use a rubbish cheap universal black gloss to protect it until such a time as I can get the car up on a ramp somewhere to do all the underside properly.

So that ties in the two chassis connectors like a crossmember, welds the floor to the chassis for more rigidity, and even works as a propshaft safety loop too.

Move on to the next job now.

Neither. They were solidly welded onto the rear subframe by Geof Hauser while the car was there getting something else done.

But that is why I wanted to weld in something to tie in the floor and add more structural strength to the whole car. Not that it didn't feel great before. It just made more sense to me.

I am satisfied that the car as a whole is now much, much stronger than originally.

Well it was time to install the 1/2 inch i.d. braided hose I bought cheap off Mr Benn.
It was a huge length of about 30ft which would have done the whole car but it is of a non-standard size (45 thou bigger diameter than -8AN) so no good for normal hose fittings. I did try just in case but it is too tight.

However it did come with a crimped -8AN fitting at each end so I could use one of those to run to the fuel pump and the other end is the perfect size to slip over the half inch diameter fuel sending unit I have ordered. That can just be secured out of sight with a hose clip.

So how to run a hose almost 3/4" thick from front to back, avoiding any heat from the headers or exhaust, when you have never done this before?

Well I have had a go. If you see anything wrong with it let me know.

I started at the pump and worked back to the tank via the front frame rail and the outside of the chassis connectors. The sending unit is not here yet so the installation is not completely finished.

Ally plate is a little heat shield I made where the hose passes close to two header pipes. Oh and I made some "P-Clips" from copper clips and some sticky backed foam lagging.

More.

Sandy wrote:Not being picky, Dave, just thinking aloud.

Sandy.
This is the sort of thing I was looking for. I can't trust my thinking right now and I wanted people to chip in with ideas or point out any dangers. Just as you have.

The problem with photographs is that they are two dimensional.

The fuel line is not in the wheel arch but a little behind it. Where the existing fuel line ran. However I could have perhaps made more effort to get the line higher up out of the way as it would be more protected that way.

Steve.
I was thinking about where the 3-inch exhaust pipe will run when I put the fuel line on the outside. I didn't want them running alongside each other.

However looking at it again I think I could do that if I can get the fuel line over the rear shock mount brace. I have had a feel up there this morning and I think I might be able to get the hose through over it at one point. I can also get the drill into that side of the chassis rail before the shock mount.

So I think i will give that a go.

Thanks for the input guys. That was a great help.

Some more photos.

BTW.

Have you noticed how neat the bottom edge of the sill looks when you paint the "downstanding flange" black as per Chrysler instructions?

I have no idea why most restorers do not do this.