Mopar Muscle Association UK

We just Started selling these if of any interest

http://chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Steel_Bl ... ml#aSBS009


£38.00 delivered uk mainland to MMA members

How hard wearing is it Mark, does it scratch easily?
Is it OK on material that flexes like coil springs?
Can you reuse the solutions?

Cheers.

TyreFryer wrote:How hard wearing is it Mark, does it scratch easily?
Is it OK on material that flexes like coil springs?
Can you reuse the solutions?

Cheers.

Would this also be better than say power coating bottom arms ect ?

TyreFryer wrote:How hard wearing is it Mark, does it scratch easily?
Is it OK on material that flexes like coil springs?
Can you reuse the solutions?

Cheers.

As Martin says, also have you any before and after pics of something already done.

i have used a similar thing in the past, its a chemical blacking that penetrates the surface (not too deep) so it is hard wearing and flexible but will scratch if you slip with a screwdriver etc but not just from normal use (ie washing off road dirt)

Done some of this. Certainly doesn't offer the level of protection of plating, but is useful nonetheless. And real easy to do!

Not really what you need for stuff on the underside of your car, but good elsewhere.

Thanks for the messages- > They are that new in I havent had a chance to try it yet or had much feedback


tell u what- free kit to the first member that wants to do a review for me with a few pics etc? Ill put it on our web blog etc

I'd be up for that Mark, could use it on some of the parts on the Dart rebuild?

done! pm me the address martin - ill send it monday

Cheers Mark, will do.

Damm , missed out on this.

Hi everyone I've done this and anodizing aluminum when I was working as a Gunsmith many years ago the finish is as black as a shotgun barrel very black and is as good as your polishing but you can also black things after sand blasting and this way get a dual finish like on the top of a .45 auto I sand blasted to give a dull anti glare finish and the sides were polished with fine sand paper in a straight line to give another type of polished finish, so you can change the finish with different grades of grit or paper.

You will need to keep it oiled after with a fine oil after to stop it rusting

Its easy all you need is a tank made of steel big enough to put the part in and about 4 inches deeper than what ever the object is, then you'll need a gas ring/burner or two if its long to keep the heat even.

Mix the salts with water to make up a caustic mix and bring it to the boil, the boiling point is high so don't get it on you!!! its hot enough when if you spit in it and it sizzles it about rite, but if the object is big it will cool the liquid so try too keep the temp up a little, not so high that it boils over though. and strike off/polish the part just before you put it in otherwise it will be oxidizing before you put it in the tank, and the process you are doing is controlled oxidizing so if it starts before you put it in it will spoil the job.

Its easy and the finish will look very professional

If anyone needs any help with this or anodizing let me know and I'll give you my phone number and I will help you BUT!! if you hurt yourself its not my fault!!!