Mopar Muscle Association UK

I have completed my rebuild of the 383 cid motor for my Facel Vega HK500



and thanks to all those here who provided advice and parts. A series of pictures can be found here:

http://s1247.photobucket.com/user/Scram ... t=9&page=1

The crankshaft was reground by Welham Motors in Leicester and they checked over the block, pistons/rods and camshaft and confirmed they are OK. Parts were given to me by Terry and Steve on here and Dave B, Real Steel & C M Frost supplied other parts. I fitted new crank bearings (of course ), 6 new inlet valves to replace incorrect ones and a new set of ball ended pushrods - gaskets of course.

The engine set did not have any side seals for the crank rear seal retaining block. Instead you have to fill the grooves with RTV silicone and then push in a (supplied) dampened pipe cleaner, which is supposed to make the RTV go off. I did not rate this system at all highly. After the first fit, there were gaps left down the side of the retainer. It's v. difficult to not smear off the RTV as you push the retainer down. I re-did it making sure there was lots of excess RTV and smeared it up the outside of the block. I hope it did the job

Anyway, my question. The engine is arranged with a remote oil filter (see connections in pic above) and when I removed the engine and this from the car, the filter and feed pipes were empty. The filter mounts high on the inner wing. Also, it seemed pretty small, about the size of a Mini filter

I have found some larger filters which will fit and also one with a non-return valve. Is a non-return valve a good idea?

Advice welcomed, thank you.

JerryL wrote: Is a non-return valve a good idea?

Advice welcomed, thank you.

Yes. In particular if the filter is mounted higher than the sump.

Best filter out there is Royal Purple.

Only one supplier in the UK.
http://www.aas-exhausts.co.uk/

Thanks Dave, NRV it will be.

After a long winter of work on my car I have been able to get it out for some runs in the countryside.

The rebuild has transformed my engine operation and performance, I'm well pleased except for the oil leak I now have.

The engine gasket set came with a revised seal system for the rear main bearing. In fact there were no seals as such, just a couple of small pipe cleaners.

Dave B advised me that I should now fill the grooves (down the sides of the bearing cap) where rubber seals should be with RTV silicone, fit the cap, then wet the pipe cleaners and push them into the grooves.

First time, this utterly failed to make a seal, I could see the gaps. I did it a second time which looked OK but it is impossible to tell how well it is sealed. Anyway, I now have a significant oil leak from the back of the engine. Looks like it will have to come out again. At least I don't have a clutch which would quickly slip with all that oil.

Any advice on how to make a good seal here, with/without the proper seals?? Can I get the original style seals anywhere??

Thanks for advice. Jerry

Hi Jerry, it is a very common problem and a real issue on race cars (oil downs, pushbacks..)

It is possible to replace the seal with the engine in the car as long as you like laying on your back.

My thoughts are that if it leaked when you installed it in a clean environment on a stand, do you think you can do any better lying on your back??

I had had a few issues with these despite taking a lot of time on the installation.
I am of the belief that the cause is the oil running around the seal in the carrier, but it is very hard to prove it. Dave's advice was spot on.


I have not seen a rope seal for sale in the UK....you may get one from the 'States.

Pete wrote:Hi Jerry, it is a very common problem and a real issue on race cars (oil downs, pushbacks..)

a) It is possible to replace the seal with the engine in the car as long as you like laying on your back.

b) My thoughts are that if it leaked when you installed it in a clean environment on a stand, do you think you can do any better lying on your back??

c) I had had a few issues with these despite taking a lot of time on the installation.
I am of the belief that the cause is the oil running around the seal in the carrier, but it is very hard to prove it. Dave's advice was spot on.


d) I have not seen a rope seal for sale in the UK....you may get one from the 'States.

a) cain't remove the sump in situ so it's not possible in my car

b) NO!!

c) Agreed.
Have you succeeded making a good seal by this method??
I guess one mistake I may have made would be not degreasing the surfaces before applying the silicone.

d) The seals I removed, definitely were not rope. Some form of rubber. Do you have any link to a likely US supplier of suitable seal?

Thanks.