vibration and trans tailshaft bushing

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Jan 17, 17 12:42 pm

Ive been tracing some rhythmic vibration for a while. I've ruled out UJs, prop and diff bearings and now looking at where the slip yoke enters the rear of the 727 tailshaft.

Thee is clear up/down movement where the yoke goes into the tailshaft.

It occurred to me that the brass bushing could be worn

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/727-A727-Exte ... 0648871032

Has anyone done this job and does anyone have the specialist bushing removal tool that I could borrow?

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Tue Jan 17, 17 2:50 pm

I shall watch this with intrepidation, Miles.

I too have a similar theory with the Demon. Not loads of movement but I can move the slip yoke up-down-sideways etc and wondered how the shaft is supported internally.

It will be great to see how you get on mate and good luck

terryr · Post by **terryr** » Tue Jan 17, 17 4:57 pm

Check for cracks in the tailshaft housing too,normally go infront of the mount,I done one on the demon,can be hard to spot when stationary

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Jan 17, 17 5:44 pm

Any cracking on the tailshaft will start at the speedo drive hole and eventually go all the way around, so that's where you look. Changed loads of tailshaft bushes, you need to remove it from the gearbox and press it out on a hydraulic press. Even with a new bush there is an amount of play so don't expect zero movement.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Jan 17, 17 5:49 pm

Thanks all. I'll check at the weekend, but the trans was rebuilt this time last year with no reports or indication of cracking.
There is a tool to do it in situ. Ever come across one Blue?
Also, does anyone know how much play is permitted. Got to get this vibe situation sorted.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Jan 17, 17 5:51 pm

This type of tool
http://atoztool.com/2200A.html

I just read that there should only about1/8" play. I have more than that, near 1/4" so I reckon I'll replace the yoke as it has grooves on it.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Jan 17, 17 6:32 pm

Not seen that tool before. The bush is thin and can be in there really tight, I have my doubts that tool would work in all instances.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Jan 17, 17 6:52 pm

Found the correct Chrysler tool but at $244 plus shipping I'll let it go

I'll replace the slip yoke first and then see how it looks

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Tue Jan 17, 17 8:17 pm

I replaced the tailshaft bushing and there was still plenty of play between the bush and the slip yoke. I didn't have a vibration before or after, it was replaced as a matter of course when I rebuilt the box. I think your vibration is something else.
I did have a nasty vibration once but it turned out to be the rear wheels out of balance.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Jan 17, 17 10:23 pm

Ok Mick,that's worth a thought. It has got progressively worse hence my view that something is worn.
I have spare wheels so I'll simply swap them over and see what occurs.

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Wed Jan 18, 17 7:38 am

Miles you can remove the tail shaft off the gearbox in situ and the replace the bushing and then reinstall the tail shaft.

Remove trans mount, speedo drive and undo the five tail shaft bolts and the release the bearing cir-clip (under the metal plate under the gearbox mount) and pull the tail shaft off.
I've done a few governor weight changes like this.

Call me if you want any gaskets. I might even have a tail shaft bushing.
As Blue says even a new bushing has play.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Jan 18, 17 10:49 am

Thanks Anton, that's helpful.
Before I go any further I'll try different wheels (easy), then I'll pull the prop and give the yoke a thorough inspection before looking at the bushing.
The vibration is rhythmic and typical of Mopar it seems, but I cant live with it so I need to diagnose it.

Anton, don't suppose you have a good yoke available? think mine is the longer version, but I'll report back at the weekend.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Jan 18, 17 2:30 pm

its not too bad a job, but I was wary before I did mine
thoughts of smashed bits of ally.

I only needed to do the seal but I wasn't confident at getting it off with the housing on the car so I took the housing off and did both while the box was drained

took off tailshaft housing

prized out seal with an array of vicious looking Paint tin openers (every bad screwdriver and chunks of flat steel that I have)

medium sized hammer to knock its metal rim up helpful

the bush

the case has a slot in it at 4 o'clock or 8 oclock (or it did on mine)

I cut into the bushing with a hacksaw blade along the line of the slot
but that took ages so I concentrated on the open end and that allowed me to ping up the edges of the split to act as a bit of purchase for the next ATTACK

heated the housing and tapped the bushing through with a big hammer and a socket

when I say tapped...it took a long time

if you buy a 727/BorgWarner 4 speed bushing and seal from Australia

you get one with the rubber bellows on the end like the orginal

Rockauto also have these occasionally

otherwise UK Jensen and range rover will do. its just a flat press in spring loaded job (rock auto is cheapest and proper brand-you-know makes are not expensive)

bushing goes in with the gulleys and hole to the bottom
I used a bit of steel plate with a hole in it, a long bit of stud ,a wing niut and a hex nut and a big washer from wickes through the housing and bush then a hole in my black and decker workmate below the main case end of the housing to act as a massive puller to pull in the new bushing

gently tapping it with a BFH would have bruised it some what

seal goes on no problem tap it in with a peening hammer or another big socket. I glued it in with hylomar, not sure if you need to but hey it acts as a lube as well, I positioned the vent hole in the bellows upwards. if any oil gets that far I want it lubricating the seal and the yoke not falling immediately onto the garage floor. no idea if that is correct

fill the bellows with grease (leave a hole for the yoke)

800 then 1200 grit wet n dry with brasso will clean up the yoke to a mirror shine in the area where the seal runs, the area where it sat in the bushing is most likely already clean the new seal will run in a different place from the old just because you know it will, on a rusty cruddy bit.

to Bananarama! up use a cotton trainer lace or if you have leather strap or lace use that

wrap round 1 full loop with the ends towards you that holds the wet n dry round the yoke and just pull it back and forth until your arms hurt, vary your position from time to time so you don't make it oval shaped

finish by hand
Bananarama! all down with water to get the abrasives off, and Bananarama! with diesel or wd 40 to stop it rusting during the time it takes for you to be filled with the urge to put it back together again.

when you have the seal and bushing in hand its worth while finding a lid off a deodorant or paint can that fits perfectly within the main inner part of the seal but has a deep enough cup to it to enclose the out put shaft

that way you can use it as a stopper from this point forward and never have to drain the trans if you pull the tail shaft for any prolonged period where you can't leave the car propped up resting practically on its nose.

Dave

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Jan 18, 17 6:45 pm

Dave, as ever, thanks to your mental dedication to us all! No wonder you got an award

I'll go for a new yoke most likely, once I've checked mine properly over the weekend.

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Thu Jan 19, 17 7:19 am

Hi Miles
Propshaft Services in Feltham can supply a slip yoke if needed. That is where i got mine when my uj let go.