Mopar Muscle Association UK

Right you lot. Who's done this ?
Where did you buy it ? Was it worth it... ?
Even with all new suspension parts the old gal wanders a fair bit. So as usual, while engine out and I can get to it... seems like good time.

Recommendations ? Suppliers ?
https://www.streetmusclemag.com/project ... -borgeson/

That site is blocked for me at work

but if its is a delphi/borgeson power steering box upgrade

get the kit from http://bergmanautocraft.com/products.php?cat=1

that way you retain the pot slider in the steering shaft and don't have to chop off the end and weld on a basic UJ
you get metric to mopar conversion pipes

all good


Dave

I never knew there was a version that will fit the charger !

Im thinking just go manual

Ps. I have a Hydraulic snap on puller to get the pitman arm off if you need it let me know and i will post.

It was unbelievable how much effort it took to get it off.

20:1 manual would be an option

but the steering shaft extension/ spline adapter adds 150
and you may need a new pitman arm

i'll lend you rebuilt manual box with 20:1 to try if you want, i work in watford so handover is not too much of a stretch

24:1 would be a major step back (standard ratio for all but some A bodys)

16:1 potentially too much the other way, good in a lighter car, or you need a very precise small amount of + castor to keep it light enough for car parks.

Dave

Or this - surely a straight swap ?
http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_po ... build.html

Dave999 wrote: Wed Jan 23, 19 11:23 am
get the kit from http://bergmanautocraft.com/products.php?cat=1


Dave

delphi/borgeson nice and 15lb lighter why are they such big money ? My truck is almost identical off a Daf and was cheap

autofetish wrote: Wed Jan 23, 19 3:18 pm Ps. I have a Hydraulic snap on puller to get the pitman arm off if you need it let me know and i will post

Thanks will

morgan wrote: Wed Jan 23, 19 8:28 pm Or this - surely a straight swap ?
http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_po ... build.html

not heard a bad word about them

check steer and gear as well

just looked like your link was to a feature about borgeson who do a modern box used by a current car or truck with a case made to fit a mopar.
bergman sell the box with the rest of the kit to make it more like standard i.e the bits they feel borgeson should supply but don't.

watching with interest

i have a leaky steering box i need to address at some point

Charger wrote: Thu Jan 24, 19 10:50 am watching with interest

i have a leaky steering box i need to address at some point

To be honest thats my core driver. I can live with the wayward nature - in truth I dont really notice it now - but the leak is irritating.
Might just go for a stock rebuilt then.... I dont feel much like chopping shafts about.

I thought the Bergman steering coupler was designed to eliminate the need to cut your steering column shaft? The Borgeson steering conversion is supposed to be a straight bolt in and fully reversible if done using Bergman parts.

well as i say you don't need to

for these 3 options

firmfeel or stear and gear rebuild
Bogesons faster ratio lighter smaller box if purchased from bergman autocraft
or if you go manual. just manual needs a shaft extender and spline adapter slotted in to make up the gap left when you swap out the tall power box for the shorter manual box

the shaft chopping is involved if you buy the borgeson box from borgeson or other suppliers, Then you get a borgeson CV joint to weld or pin to the your steering shaft, that involves a bit of cutting....and while there is nout much wrong with that, there is no swapping back to standard without a new shaft and a column rebuild.

your current will be 14:1 power box
borgeson do a one that is 11: or 12:1 power box
and manual for your car should be 24:1 but that's ridiculous 5 or 6 turns lock to lock so a 20:1 might be best 20:1 is the formula s barracuda ratio

16:1 manual is probably not an option, (only used in dodge darts that went racing) based on my A body install. !6:1 in a heavy B body would be a bit much at parking speeds unless your funky UCAs allow you to adjust the castor for a steering wheel that self centres without the usual problems when using OEM UCAs of achieving that via massive positive castor. and that massive castor angle causing the act of steering to lift the front of the car (i.e very heavy steering, not noticed as much with power box but very obvious with manual).

But a rebuilt manual with no slop at all is a joy on the move, and you can improve it more by using a urethane or ball bearing bush in the idler.

loads of options for making sure a move at the steering wheel translates instantly to a move at the wheels.

depends how much you want to fanny about swapping stuff and maybe losing the set up that roger did on your front end

Dave

a-ha Gareth you beat me to it....