the only thing that your car had in respect to lighting that is illegal in the UK is the orange reversing lights
i.e both indicators on constantly when you reverse.
so colour and application of light wrong
this could be changed by putting 2 filament bulbs in the indicators at the back allowing them to be on for reversing and pulsing to indicate
provided you swap the bulb holders to tail/brake bulb holders and run a new + feed to this second fliament and allow the circuit to be earthed by the reverse switch at the transmission. which fixes 1 of the wrongnesses.
or add some reversing lights i don't think they are a legal requirment anyway on a car from 1969
the rest followed UK classic car rules
front idicators are kinda wrong its a twin filament bulb in the idicator hoausing that works as an indicator and side light
if you swap to LED has per my post here you can have amber idicator and white side light
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=150
other than that your orginal loom will have provided enough circuits + one spare for extra things like radio..
mine has 7 fuses
4 in the switched area of the fuse box (fed from igntion switch in all positions from ACC to RUN but off in start)
3 in the ON all the time area of the fuse box (fed from battery) covers interior lights parking lights horns
to be honest i'd be putting the orginal back and replacing what is broken. The dash wiper and lights wireing is pretty complicated
Unless there has been a catestrophic short there is rarely a problem with the middle 95% of the wire. i had great chunks of my loom unwrapped at one point and all of it apart from the 1 section that casued the issue (someone elses bodge) looked as though it was installed yesturday only the exposed ends of wires looked horrible.
i.e you usually need the last 2-6 inches replaced and a new connector, or the thing that it connects to is knackered.
Issues with older wireing are invariably caused by expecting it to carry way more current than it was designed for and that comes about when you fit a massive alternator and a load of new current hungry kit to the car. if you avoid that you avoid the risk.
provided all connectors are tight and clean or new the old wires will do a decent job.
depending on which electronic igntion you go for the wireing as per points is fine,
this provides a switched feed which will be 12 volts with the ballast resistor bypassed or 8 volts with it in circuit
this will come via 2 wires to the underhood section
1 to the ballast or coil from RUN on the switch
and 1 that goes to the starter solenoid and back to the ballast (other/coil end) from start position on the switch
coil negative goes to points or the electronic module although you may have 1 connection for a tacho attached there as well.
The loom for mopar electronic is a self contained lump from the ignition box to the coil and engine side of ballast which replaces the 12/8 volt wire used for points.
I can see why a new loom is attractive and the piece of mind it provides but don't feel its a mandatory expense
standard will have been quite simple so unles you are going for electric fans fuel pump and windows and a big stereo 10 fuse? 12 fuse box should be ample.
if you go for all new
suggest you put headlamps on relays
suggest the power feed from the alternator goes to the starter relay and on to the battery rather than into the car where it usually joins with the battery feed at the ammeter.
remove ammeter and replace with volt meter
add in hazzrard warning lamps
i.e add in a second flasher and a double pole switch for hazzards. power to flasher wire from flasher to switch connected to both pins at the top of switch and 2 seperate wires from the other end of the switch into the left and right idicator circuits (basically anywhere, at the switch in the column or into the feed at the drivers kick panel that goes to the rear is fine all indciators will flash)
remeber the wireing for your brake circuit failure piston thingo, and hand brake on...
there will have been a special fuse wire a fuse-able link, in the feed from alternator to car i.e a sacrifical section in that alternator feed that burns out if something goes wrong best replaced with an automotive circuit breaker or master fuse.
Dave