You talking front or rear?
is see confusing things
front drums
4 Shoes: 229mm x 63mm i.e 2.48 inch (Drum Diameter x Width)
rear drums
4 Shoes: 229mm x 51mm about 2 inch (Drum Diameter x Width)
both
2 Leading + 2 Trailing Shoes
usually have 2.5 inch shoes in front drums with 2 inch shoes in rear
Suggestions for rear.....
RAYBESTOS H7130 hardware kit to hold the shoes on + all springs etc
RAYBESTOS H2527 and RAYBESTOS H2526 for the self adjusters
austrlian wheel cylinder for VF is... Part No: P34876....see one here, look at the bolt spaceing, the half moon cut outs and the round bit that seats on the backing plate...
https://www.butlerautomart.co.nz/our-ra ... 34876.aspx
you could spend $34 each for them + shipping and VAT on the lot
but i'd risk thsese
which look the same to me....
My problem is I can't remeber what wheel cylinders i purchased, but RAYBESTOS WC34876 looks exactly the same and is only $7
the only difference i see is the squared off edge above the inlet port and that bit fits through the round hole so shouldn't be a problem
front cylinders have an angled double inlet, with the appropriate one drilled for a seat for the pipe on the left hand or right hand side,rear cylinders do not as the diff is straight and the wheels don't steer.
shoes.
any from here in 9x2 for rear and 9x2.5 for front raybestos organic or bosch rivited caught my eye...
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dod ... +shoe,1688
steer clear of ecconomy and pick from the dialy driver section
you will also need a bag of washers from wickes, Mianly becasue i have suggested a later post 73 hardware kit.
your backing plates are designed for this anchor which is a mid 60s style of holding down the shoes. i think they are rubbish and are horrible to fit, so didn't suggest them.
RAYBESTOS H1134K
and thsese springs
DORMAN HW1156
the spring goes through the shoe and hooks onto the anchor which has the square open part poking through the backing plate.
the holes in your backing plate need to be big enough for the hook section but not so big to let through the square base.
This can mean the holes in the plate are bigger than the head of the pins in the raybestos hardware fitting kit i suggested above. Which is the 10 inch and post 1973 9 inch hold down style. (much better)
bag of washers does the, trick pop em on the pins and stick the pins through the backing plate.
remeber that chrylsers use NO LEAD pipe nuts designed for bubble flares on everything apart from the big fat one on the master cylinder which is different and i can't remeber how its different other than its bigger to stop you connecting the front to the rear or vice versa.
if you have this master cylinder
remeber that it has a safety piston in it, which will lock-out and block off either the front or rear brakes if you bleed them too vigourously
you will have to undo the electrircal switch in the port on the MC to unlock the "lockout" piston to get your front or rear brakes back and the light in the dash to go off.
if the fitting kit pins are too long a set for a ford sierra off ebay will see you right.
when you first put the rear brakes on you can more or less guarantee that the shoes are not the same shape as the drum and you will only be brakeing on the ends or the middle of each shoe.
adjust them up tight as per the manual bleed the brakes then back them off twice as far as suggested check they work and drive like that for a bit
let them bed in then adjust properly once you can see ware marks across the whole face of each
Dave