Mopar Muscle Association UK

Morning all,

Quick bit of advice required please if possible....

Just cleaning rebuilding my 1406 Edelbrock Carb. I want to fit a thicker spacer between the carb and intake manifold to help with the dreaded percolation issue I have always had when warm starting.

I noticed the thin one on it is open and doesnt mirror the carb or intake. My head is saying I should have one that matches the intake and carb with the four holes but am wondering why the open one was fitted (is there a reason or just an oversight that doesnt matter) and should I have one with the matching holes instead??

Many thanks in advance, Steve

It makes no odds in my opinion.

Brilliant Pete, thank you very much for the advice

Quick question Pete....this will seem obvious to you but got me thinking. Years ago, having discussed this with Ade Worman, I disconnected my problematic auto choke and have always started her without a choke. As Im rebuilding this carb, I notice that the choke flap is permanently closed . This cant be right, surely???

As there is now no 12v going to the choke, there is nothing to activate the choke and open the flap when warm. Would you say I should wire the choke permanently open? Harder cold starts but correct up to temp running? This may explain the relative difficulties I have with warm starts?

Plugs are always a nice colour etc so dont think its interfering with running but Im sure it cant be right.....

Permanently like this.....

Should I fix it permanently like this....as far open as it will go....

Better photos of fully closed / open

I had a linkage on incorrectly, fully open now is like this....

That makes more sense ! The tiny opening looked v odd
I got stuck once when mine jammed closed - car wouldnt run at all. Always assuming the absolute worst it turned out to be just 'poke the flaps open'. Doh !

Cheers Morgan, thanks for your help I misread the rebuild book Im using when it said about measuring the choke opening and despite doubting how it could be accurate, I didnt question it. I re read it and it clearly says flap should be wide open when engine is hot.

Ive taken the auto choke body off again and basically reversed the big spring that opens the choke so if it worked, the adjustment would be reversed. Ive just wound it back onto the front of the lever instead of behind it. As there is no power to it anymore, the coiled spring now just holds the choke open. I think thats a better set up (my head hurts now ).

Can you just remove the choke flap and associated linkages?

Kev wrote: Thu Oct 30, 25 4:15 am Can you just remove the choke flap and associated linkages?

That’s what I’d do. Also 4 hole spacer for a 4 hole intake for smoother airflow, on an open intake you can use either.

Morning Kev / Blue.....thats a cracking idea....just looking now. Dead easy to just unbolt the flap and linkage from the spindles and leave them in place to keep body sealed

Received my spacer. Ordered 1" but its really just a bit too deep. I didnt realise just how little clearance there is between the air cleaner and the hood. Everything lifted just an inch looks daft too. Ive ordered a half inch one that should do the trick.

Simple trick I use to check tight clearances on the hood is a blob of blue tack on the highest point of the motor