Mopar Muscle Association UK

At last I was able to get to the back of the speedo and extract the cable for inspection. In fact it fell out when I grabbed it. The clip is broken and I suspect it was half out anyway and causing my dancing needle problem. But now my problem is finding a replacement. This one is 60" long and h...

Having real trouble accessing the nuts holding that lower dash padded bit in. Not helped that this was an AC car before someone put a six barrel induction on it and they left all the ducting in. I am going to have to remove the steering column as Blue suggested and might strip out all the AC ducts. ...

And the answer was...four screws on the rear that mount the first two switches to the panel. At least one of them was gripping the frame behind. With my fat head pushed under the dash as physically possible it would go I could just see it with one eye and managed to get a long screwdriver onto it. I...

Yeah I might take the seat out anyway. The steering column does not seem in my way at the moment. I can see the back of the switch under the dash. I just cant figure out why it does not move like the rest of the panel. It's just that far end. :-k I am starting to damage the pad around it with prying...

I am waiting for some bits to finish the wiring so turned my attention to the last major issue which is the broken speedometer in the dash cluster. Now getting the dash apart has turned into the hardest thing I have done in years. I found a youtube video which shows one taken to bits which was helpf...

The car has one of those dual ballast resistors on the bulkhead but on removal of the coil I found it is a 12v Pertronix "Flame Thrower" which does not require one. In trying to figure out how the resistor was wired I had to unwrap the engine bay harness. Miles of cable wrapped up in there...

MattH wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 20 7:32 pm You're getting lots done Dave, this retirement lark OK then??

Bloody great. :-)

Carbs stripped, everything checked out OK. Re-jetted all three carbs slightly richer for what I hope will be a cooler/denser air quality. Turned all six idle mixture screws 1.25 turns out. Replaced the white pump squirter cam for a blue version to give an extra 1cc to the shot. Fingers crossed all l...

I did find plenty of people asking about that casting number online. So I am not the only one. Their engines seem to be dated 1974.

Found a link here http://www.mopar1.us/casting.html that has it listed among the 68-78 blocks.

Not really much information on them though.

Heads on this block are 1967 "915" closed chamber. Cool. 8-) The block I am currently kicking myself about because I should have wondered about this while I had the headers off. The thing is, from what I can see of the casting number it "looks like" 3830930-440-6 which is no cast...

I thought a little insulation might help my cause so I put a couple of layers in then bolted the intake down to the correct torque on the bolts.
Which was about 10x more tight than they were.

Just to get the intake manifold out of my way I cleaned it up, filled the heat crossover with expanding foam, cut a bit of steel shim to slightly too big for the hole and tapped it in with a hammer, then made sure it was not going anywhere with epoxy. Once that has all set I will put it back on the ...

I have finished going through the brakes and they are bled and pedal feel strong. No sign of leaks although I found it was easy to overtighten the master cylinder connections and cause a leak which might be what has happened in the past. The strange steel shims that were falling off the outer front ...

unless the carter is way over spec it should to a certain extent self regulate in a way that an electric pump just can't. i took the regulator back out...was restricting flow at WOT causing me those "Oh **** ive bust it" feelings at 3/4 track dave No idea what the pump is putting out and ...

LOOKS LIKE I AM SORTED!

Thanks for the help guys.