Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
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Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Dave. I don't remember buying pads off you. I used to buy a similar pad that fitted Bedford vans and Aston Martins and grind the edges down to fit. It was a square pad. Could you have sold the pads to Bratfink? Never bought pads for the Wilwoods.....
<center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Hi Guys....and particularly Dave!
...After a degree of messing about......and being obviously well stung on transport and customs costs....I have received my brake parts etc from Hemi in Oz......
They were very helpful....but after ordering the pads.....I then found that they were out of stock for the foreseeable.
This obviously put a long term delay on the rest of the order as well.....But after raising a complaint they very kindly included an uprated set of pads at no extra charge.
I then also found that I had made the school boy error....of only ticking the box once.....and ordering only one front disc!.......
Once again...their response to my email was very prompt and helpful....and they dispatched the item pronto.
The discs were spot on...but the fads did take a little 'adjustment' to fit...
They are EBC Ultimax 2....which are apparently the 'World's first Eco friendly Brakes'...if you believe the propaganda on the box.....
I'm now reliably informed...that they originated in the UK !
I also ordered a wing mirror for the passenger side.....which although not a particularly close match for the original on the driver's side....appears to be of good quality...and has a narrow base which fits nicely on the door ledge....should be very handy for my next trip across the Channel in August!
Even treated myself to a 'Valiant' key fob!
Once again...thanks for all the advice.
Stuart
...After a degree of messing about......and being obviously well stung on transport and customs costs....I have received my brake parts etc from Hemi in Oz......
They were very helpful....but after ordering the pads.....I then found that they were out of stock for the foreseeable.
This obviously put a long term delay on the rest of the order as well.....But after raising a complaint they very kindly included an uprated set of pads at no extra charge.
I then also found that I had made the school boy error....of only ticking the box once.....and ordering only one front disc!.......
Once again...their response to my email was very prompt and helpful....and they dispatched the item pronto.
The discs were spot on...but the fads did take a little 'adjustment' to fit...
They are EBC Ultimax 2....which are apparently the 'World's first Eco friendly Brakes'...if you believe the propaganda on the box.....
I'm now reliably informed...that they originated in the UK !
I also ordered a wing mirror for the passenger side.....which although not a particularly close match for the original on the driver's side....appears to be of good quality...and has a narrow base which fits nicely on the door ledge....should be very handy for my next trip across the Channel in August!
Even treated myself to a 'Valiant' key fob!
Once again...thanks for all the advice.
Stuart
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Well now you know the EBC part number....or did they stick hemi performance stickers over every identifying mark 
Provided Mr hemi performance didn't make it an exclusive order just for him.
They should be able to turn up a new set when you need it without them going round the world.
dave
Provided Mr hemi performance didn't make it an exclusive order just for him.
They should be able to turn up a new set when you need it without them going round the world.
dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
yeah you were probably served by second generation of hemi performance
bill the owner must be retired by now. been at it since 1978, His kids have taken over the business hence the funky new website.
next time if you find a supplier who is happy to stick it all in a box and take it down the post office and just wait while it comes via Australia Post you may well avoid UPS, Parcelfarce et al
and just find a box on the door set dropped off by your usual post man....no customs no nuffin
had a flywheel and clutch kit and a couple of wheels that way....
makes up for the times when you have to return something and get taxed in full again on the replacement.
Dave
bill the owner must be retired by now. been at it since 1978, His kids have taken over the business hence the funky new website.
next time if you find a supplier who is happy to stick it all in a box and take it down the post office and just wait while it comes via Australia Post you may well avoid UPS, Parcelfarce et al
and just find a box on the door set dropped off by your usual post man....no customs no nuffin
had a flywheel and clutch kit and a couple of wheels that way....
makes up for the times when you have to return something and get taxed in full again on the replacement.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Thanks for another couple of tips Dave.......
The pads are just in a normal blue EBC box.
By the way.....the seal on the rear main is weeping fairly well....any thoughts of what I can do about it?.....The 273 is currently running pretty well, and I'd like to 'let sleeping dogs lie'... but if the engine has to be pulled, maybe this winter, I will no doubt start thinking about a change to lead free heads etc etc...
Gus
The pads are just in a normal blue EBC box.
By the way.....the seal on the rear main is weeping fairly well....any thoughts of what I can do about it?.....The 273 is currently running pretty well, and I'd like to 'let sleeping dogs lie'... but if the engine has to be pulled, maybe this winter, I will no doubt start thinking about a change to lead free heads etc etc...
Gus
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
you have a few choices and what you find will dicated what you do
if it was a rope seal engine, the crank will be knurled at the seal surface.
if it still has a visible knurled pattern to drive oil back into the motor you should put in a rope seal, a rubber seal is not going to last long as it has a knurl style pattern on its lip which will ware off on the knurled crank pattern.
the best rope one i found was an ACL/permaseal seal off a holden V8. its part number is HN022 its made of fatter rope than the rest, they work
bit of a pig to fit
but here is the method
https://youtu.be/kSQWlnvAIbI
other options are the 2 piece neoprene/rubber seals made by just about everyone, for small block v8
fit one of them if there is no knurl or it is worn away.
if it has worn away then the diameter of the crank at the seal surface is going to be wrong.
the seal will have been made for a standard diameter on the crank. it has the correct amount of crush built in only if the surface it is sealing against is standard. a worn rope seal surface will be a smaller diameter
you could try getting the crank re knurled but the likelihood cracking is high on a crank that has worked hard and is in its final treated state.
if the block has ever been line bored to correct an issue with the crank main caps then 99% sure the job won't have involved recentering the seal housing. rope seal copes with this, rubber doesn't particularly well. too much crushing by crank on one side and not enough on the other
or indeed if it was a rope seal motor to start with they won't have given a second thought to the seal housing concentricity as it doesn't really matter with rope.
anyway rubber seals
so
put seal in housing and do up to torque
measure crank at seal surface
measure seal inside diameter.
seal needs to be squished a specific distance by the crank to work
(I can't remember how much for a 2 or 2.5 inch bore i do have it written down so can find it)
if it isn't going to be squished the correct amount
take it out
you will need to shim the bottom of the seal housing and cap with thin sliver of metal.
layer of silicone
stick in the metal sliver same width as bottom of seal "trench" and ending about 1mm from the junction between block and cap at both sides. form it first, before gunging it in.
more silicone
put seal on top
press it in and wipe up the silicone mess
put in crank.
repeat same exercise in the cap
do not glue the seal halves together
leave it for 24 hours to set
take out crank
put cap back on
check bore size of seal in relation to diameter of crank if its within the proper range all good
take off cap
put in crank
super glue or silicone ends of seal
smallest wipe of silicone on the mating surface of the cap, tiny.... do not let it block off the tiny return paths from the bolt hole to the inside of the motor.
if yours has rubbery bits in the seal pack for sealing this bit use them instead
put cap back on
do it up
leave it for 24 hours.
or you could try the not very easy
sump off
lower the crank a few mm on the caps
pull out old seal
try to feed new seal in
hope for the best....
might work ....
its a job i have to do as well
last time i had it out i couldn't get an ACL rope seal from Oz as ACL had just gone Under/bankrupt and permaseal wasn't a name i knew at the time i used a standard gasket set one....it worked for the first couple of 1000 miles
I'll have to put in a buick v6 seal or modify a pontiac one from BOP engineering as nobody makes a rubbery one for mine
i just can't be arsed at the mo.
i wouldn't bother with lead free heads unless you need heads..
if you stick with the cast iron heads put stainless valves in. if the exhaust seats have recessed get inserts put in.... you don't need to for the inlets,
would be odd to have seat recession on the inlets anyway, and if there is enough left on the perimeter of the valve head and they don't rock in the guides use em again. depends what you want to do.
its the exhaust valves and seats that suffer.
dave
if it was a rope seal engine, the crank will be knurled at the seal surface.
if it still has a visible knurled pattern to drive oil back into the motor you should put in a rope seal, a rubber seal is not going to last long as it has a knurl style pattern on its lip which will ware off on the knurled crank pattern.
the best rope one i found was an ACL/permaseal seal off a holden V8. its part number is HN022 its made of fatter rope than the rest, they work
bit of a pig to fit
but here is the method
https://youtu.be/kSQWlnvAIbI
other options are the 2 piece neoprene/rubber seals made by just about everyone, for small block v8
fit one of them if there is no knurl or it is worn away.
if it has worn away then the diameter of the crank at the seal surface is going to be wrong.
the seal will have been made for a standard diameter on the crank. it has the correct amount of crush built in only if the surface it is sealing against is standard. a worn rope seal surface will be a smaller diameter
you could try getting the crank re knurled but the likelihood cracking is high on a crank that has worked hard and is in its final treated state.
if the block has ever been line bored to correct an issue with the crank main caps then 99% sure the job won't have involved recentering the seal housing. rope seal copes with this, rubber doesn't particularly well. too much crushing by crank on one side and not enough on the other
or indeed if it was a rope seal motor to start with they won't have given a second thought to the seal housing concentricity as it doesn't really matter with rope.
anyway rubber seals
so
put seal in housing and do up to torque
measure crank at seal surface
measure seal inside diameter.
seal needs to be squished a specific distance by the crank to work
(I can't remember how much for a 2 or 2.5 inch bore i do have it written down so can find it)
if it isn't going to be squished the correct amount
take it out
you will need to shim the bottom of the seal housing and cap with thin sliver of metal.
layer of silicone
stick in the metal sliver same width as bottom of seal "trench" and ending about 1mm from the junction between block and cap at both sides. form it first, before gunging it in.
more silicone
put seal on top
press it in and wipe up the silicone mess
put in crank.
repeat same exercise in the cap
do not glue the seal halves together
leave it for 24 hours to set
take out crank
put cap back on
check bore size of seal in relation to diameter of crank if its within the proper range all good
take off cap
put in crank
super glue or silicone ends of seal
smallest wipe of silicone on the mating surface of the cap, tiny.... do not let it block off the tiny return paths from the bolt hole to the inside of the motor.
if yours has rubbery bits in the seal pack for sealing this bit use them instead
put cap back on
do it up
leave it for 24 hours.
or you could try the not very easy
sump off
lower the crank a few mm on the caps
pull out old seal
try to feed new seal in
hope for the best....
might work ....
its a job i have to do as well
last time i had it out i couldn't get an ACL rope seal from Oz as ACL had just gone Under/bankrupt and permaseal wasn't a name i knew at the time i used a standard gasket set one....it worked for the first couple of 1000 miles
I'll have to put in a buick v6 seal or modify a pontiac one from BOP engineering as nobody makes a rubbery one for mine
i just can't be arsed at the mo.
i wouldn't bother with lead free heads unless you need heads..
if you stick with the cast iron heads put stainless valves in. if the exhaust seats have recessed get inserts put in.... you don't need to for the inlets,
would be odd to have seat recession on the inlets anyway, and if there is enough left on the perimeter of the valve head and they don't rock in the guides use em again. depends what you want to do.
its the exhaust valves and seats that suffer.
dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
PS your 273 v8 could have a steel crank solid lifters and adjustable rockers....
Nice
it might not but it could.....
in which case its a nice engine...everyone will think you are mad..most will say get a 360, but it could be made to go very well with carb cam and headers
Dave
Nice
it might not but it could.....
in which case its a nice engine...everyone will think you are mad..most will say get a 360, but it could be made to go very well with carb cam and headers
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Once again Dave......thank you very much for so much info.....brilliant!
Think I will assess matters come the winter. I'm not going looking for trouble!
As you mention...the car has got solid lifters/adjustable rockers.....and I believe, a steel crank...
I certainly don't want to swap the unit.....I reckon I'm getting high teens on a run [ if I don't use the extra chokes too much!]
Not being able to find a decent exhaust system @15 years ago I had a stainless system and headers made up .....has regularly blown gaskets over the years, but I think that problem is finally resolved. At the same time I got hold of a 4 barrel carb and manifold from US Automotive in Bedford......
Still got the standard cam though.
It's always been a tad noisy, but moves really well. Also fitted some decent shocks, plus lower profile Pirelli radials on Minilites. The handling/road holding is much better than it was originally.
Gus
Think I will assess matters come the winter. I'm not going looking for trouble!
As you mention...the car has got solid lifters/adjustable rockers.....and I believe, a steel crank...
I certainly don't want to swap the unit.....I reckon I'm getting high teens on a run [ if I don't use the extra chokes too much!]
Not being able to find a decent exhaust system @15 years ago I had a stainless system and headers made up .....has regularly blown gaskets over the years, but I think that problem is finally resolved. At the same time I got hold of a 4 barrel carb and manifold from US Automotive in Bedford......
Still got the standard cam though.
It's always been a tad noisy, but moves really well. Also fitted some decent shocks, plus lower profile Pirelli radials on Minilites. The handling/road holding is much better than it was originally.
Gus
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
<center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
yeah that's the seal out of a buick 
its been packaged for hemi 6 but its a buick seal and are just a bit too shallow and narrow for the place they need to fit into
they either work or they don't.. depending on what state the seal surface and housing are in
got me one of them
and one of these
https://www.bopengineering.com/beltdriv ... pend.shtml
the 2.25 inch 1 piece is a cut to fit seal. you cut in 1 place and the seal fits
it won't fit mine though as mine needs a 2 inch seal and he doesn't see any demand for 2 inch versions being a pontiac man
so if i can cut it to length and flex it with no puckering of the lip. i think its a goer. mr BOP does as well
just really can't be arsed to pull it all out again this summer
Dave
its been packaged for hemi 6 but its a buick seal and are just a bit too shallow and narrow for the place they need to fit into
they either work or they don't.. depending on what state the seal surface and housing are in
got me one of them
and one of these
https://www.bopengineering.com/beltdriv ... pend.shtml
the 2.25 inch 1 piece is a cut to fit seal. you cut in 1 place and the seal fits
it won't fit mine though as mine needs a 2 inch seal and he doesn't see any demand for 2 inch versions being a pontiac man
so if i can cut it to length and flex it with no puckering of the lip. i think its a goer. mr BOP does as well
just really can't be arsed to pull it all out again this summer
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Ok....so my confidence in my new set of EBC brake pads from OZ has proven ill founded.....to be fitted, required the slight enlarging of holes......but then so far, so good....
However they shrieked every time that I touched the brake pedal .....
Have had shims made up......no improvement...... then fitted soft 'cushions' behind the shims.....no improvement.... pads trimmed and chamfered ....
But it still squeals like a Stuka!....
Nearly sent me bonkers driving back from France.....
Has anyone got any ideas please....or even where I can get an alternative set of pads?
Thanks very much
Gus
However they shrieked every time that I touched the brake pedal .....
Have had shims made up......no improvement...... then fitted soft 'cushions' behind the shims.....no improvement.... pads trimmed and chamfered ....
But it still squeals like a Stuka!....
Nearly sent me bonkers driving back from France.....
Has anyone got any ideas please....or even where I can get an alternative set of pads?
Thanks very much
Gus
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
smear the back and pins with copper slip...
the ebc ones, i guess, given the lack of dimensional quality are made here to slightly the wrong pattern. probably based on a set of pads sent by Hemi performance to them as an example
if you have your old pads they can be refaced with bog standard streetable compound, standard ferodo stuff
these guys are good.. well i say good, the place is like a victorian workhouse, but the work is good.
They have done clutch plates for me in the past
AUTO & INDUSTRIAL FRICTION SERVICES
Address: Adenville Farm, Hitchin Road, Arlesey, Beds, SG15 6SE
Phone: 01462 834778
Email: jamesautoindustrial@gmail.com
Website: www.autoandindustrial.co.uk
Services: Brake & clutch relining services for automotive and industrial. Bonded or riveted. Classic and vintage brake and clutch linings supplied. Classic brake pads. Drum skimming and brake lining radiusing. Clutches new and reconditioned. If it’s friction we do it.
they can do custom thicknesses and if you note that one pad in your caliper wears faster than the other you can get one side made thicker like the race teams used to.
Dave
the ebc ones, i guess, given the lack of dimensional quality are made here to slightly the wrong pattern. probably based on a set of pads sent by Hemi performance to them as an example
if you have your old pads they can be refaced with bog standard streetable compound, standard ferodo stuff
these guys are good.. well i say good, the place is like a victorian workhouse, but the work is good.
They have done clutch plates for me in the past
AUTO & INDUSTRIAL FRICTION SERVICES
Address: Adenville Farm, Hitchin Road, Arlesey, Beds, SG15 6SE
Phone: 01462 834778
Email: jamesautoindustrial@gmail.com
Website: www.autoandindustrial.co.uk
Services: Brake & clutch relining services for automotive and industrial. Bonded or riveted. Classic and vintage brake and clutch linings supplied. Classic brake pads. Drum skimming and brake lining radiusing. Clutches new and reconditioned. If it’s friction we do it.
they can do custom thicknesses and if you note that one pad in your caliper wears faster than the other you can get one side made thicker like the race teams used to.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
Hi Dave.......we have tried using copper slip, and the old [new] pads made a row like the new [new] ones, which is why we changed them.
Unfortunately the origonal set which had been on the vehicle for donkey's, went in the bin a while ago.....
I'm just about out of options, so will look to 'adjust' the shims one last time......and then make a phone call to Arlesey.
Thanks very much for the tips.
Gus
PS....Has anyone else had this brake aggro on a Valiant or similar motor?
Unfortunately the origonal set which had been on the vehicle for donkey's, went in the bin a while ago.....
I'm just about out of options, so will look to 'adjust' the shims one last time......and then make a phone call to Arlesey.
Thanks very much for the tips.
Gus
PS....Has anyone else had this brake aggro on a Valiant or similar motor?
Re: Chrysler Valiant VE.....discs and pads etc needed?
parts book is here
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=56763&p=621646&hil ... ok#p621646
see if there are any bits missing.
Dave
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=56763&p=621646&hil ... ok#p621646
see if there are any bits missing.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying