Front suspension kit - VF

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Ace Dropshot
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Joined: Fri Apr 20, 18 8:57 am
Location: Glasgow

Front suspension kit - VF

Post by Ace Dropshot »

Hello all.

I need to have my front suspension and steering rebuilt on my VF Valiant. There is a bunch of worn-out kit to replace.

I recall a custom adjustable kit for the VF/VG that allowed the front set-up to be installed with relative ease (i.e. without lifting block or dismantling around). I can't find this online anymore. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

Thanks
Aussie Chrysler VF Valiant "Scottish Val"
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Dave999
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Location: Twickenham,London, England

Re: Front suspension kit - VF

Post by Dave999 »

Mmm not heard of that

its a 2 weekend job of skinned knuckles, sore knees and swearing

its an A body with unique RHD lower balljoints idler and pitman arm
all the rest is as per 1968 Dodge dart
and of course the same stuff inside the steering box, just configured to be RHD and in a special RHD case.


suggest
aussie lower joints
aussie pitman and idler
moog or NOS mopar upper joints. If they need changeing? they probably just need grease. suggest a good blast through with the cheepest greese you can find then fill em with good stuff. amazing how nice they then feel.
aussie or Moog lower and upper bushes. i got Mackay rubber from OZ but moog ok as well.
moog improved strut rod bushes (ignore anything in the manual and use the instructions in the box)
and any brand bump stops upper and lower nipple for the top and a square thing with ridge in the middle for the bottom
track rod ends: Any joints/ends should have the press fit top hat seals not balljoint balloon/boot type used on modern stuff.
New A body upper arm cam bolts and washers make life easier

this involves taking it all off and putting it back on
will need as a minimum
1) grease gun filled ideally with a heavy duty sodium or barium based grease MARFAC or Mopar multi mileage lube if you can find either in small tubes. both just sold in the US or huge 40 and 80 gallon drums these days. Or speak to local supplier and get something less 1950s and of equivelent style. just sticky waterproof and very very heavy duty, no matter if it tends to juice out oil when stressed.
1) decent trolley jack
1) balljoint socket long 1/2 inch drive and a bit of scaffold pole if you have to do the upper joints
1) press type ball joint splitter
1) masons hammer 1 other big hammer or an anvil or concrete block
1) upper bush puller/press
1) handlebar clamp off a bmx or a torsion bar clamp for knocking the toriosn bars back
1) friendly engineering shop to push lower bushes onto lower arm spindles, remove old lower bushes and press the complete spindle and new bush combined into arm. You will probably need a grinder to carefully remove from the lower arm spindles the sized on steel inners from the old set of bushes.
weld a washer into the outers that are still in the arms and get them pressed or pulled out.
chrysler say, use a huge thread tap, wind tap into bush outer, use it as a stop to press or pull against... tack weld a washer its easier and cheaper. a giant thread tap costs a lot.

hence engineering shop easiest solution....


I'd go all out, not to change the upper balljoints if at all possible, each upper arm can stand this abuse about twice in its life.... its the lowers that really ware.

you will need a bar to splay out the upper A arm mounts and the idler mount... they get bent and compressed in, so you can't fit the new parts

put it all togther but do nothing up beyond finger tight until its at ride height with the steering centered.

you need to get steering centred and toe in set sensibly before you move the car. otherwise the wheels will just tuck under and...... well you can't move it more than 1 foot either direction.
set the upper rear cam bolt with fat side facing outwards and front cam bolt washer with fat side facing in. this will give the car +camber and make it look daft, bit like a ballet dancer from the front, deal with this problem last when you set camber and castor.

not hard just time consuming

big hammers blocks etc
tension your clamp/press type balljoint splitter and hit the joint with big hammer to shock it into submission, you want the taper to vibrate loose.
if you can get the outer track rods undone and the idler and pitman arm off everything on the cross link can come off the car as one part and be rested on your block/anvil and be hit with a hammer to split the joint

the lower joints have an eye that is easy to aim at.. use the suspension to tension them. undo the nuts 2 turns and smack the eye with a hammer.

wind out suspension adjusters to remove tension before taking off the balljoint nuts.
it would be unwize to loose a finger or crush your hand at this point...still lots to do...

uppers can be done at the same time or with the whole stub and upper A arm off the car on your block/anvil/ back of vice

did the whole lot a couple of years back... well worth it.. even better with a steering box rebuild as well.

Dave
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Il y a saucisse, sans doute.
ecoutez et repetez. a midi.
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Dave999
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Location: Twickenham,London, England

Re: Front suspension kit - VF

Post by Dave999 »

tool kit

https://www.manciniracing.com/mopp4120200a.html

get the correct one with the right balljointsocket (small/A body)

basically your car is same as a pre 1973 US car
small balljoints
small stub axle taper
A body track rods with A body ends
if disk brake it will be either VE valiant solid mount caliper or VG-VH valiant pin slider kelsey hayes (style) caliper on a pin slider bracket with a 3.5 inch bertween centres mount. if its disk i'd expect them to be solid disks and the setup is for 14 inch wheels
if its been Upgraded it will have VJ valiant girlock claw slider calipers and potentially vented rotors.

if you have disk spindles any set up from AUS or US will fit provided you use the full setup i.e aussie rotors, aussie calipers and brackets, OR us rotors US calipers and brackets (but you will need a stbaxle taper sleeve for the US post 73 rotors) . austrlian calipers do not fit the small US bracket and vice versa about 1/16 of an inch out.

if stuck for parts just ask... i have some "was working, when removed " bits n bobs

Dave
Eecoutez!:" A midi.
Quel heure est-il? Il est midi.
C'est l'heure de dejeuner. Qu'est-ce qu'il y a a manger?
Il y a saucisse, sans doute.
ecoutez et repetez. a midi.
quel heure est-il?
quel heure
quel heure est-il?
est-il?
il est midi.....
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Dave999
Posts: 9231
Joined: Thu Feb 24, 05 10:31 am
Location: Twickenham,London, England

Re: Front suspension kit - VF

Post by Dave999 »

other option
undo upper balljoints
take off pitman arm (steering box mounted on chassis not k frame)
knock out torsion bars

lower the whole k frame with engine box steering/suspension complete

work on it
put it all back

thats the way the factory did it

need lift and jack and a friend to help...

Dave
Eecoutez!:" A midi.
Quel heure est-il? Il est midi.
C'est l'heure de dejeuner. Qu'est-ce qu'il y a a manger?
Il y a saucisse, sans doute.
ecoutez et repetez. a midi.
quel heure est-il?
quel heure
quel heure est-il?
est-il?
il est midi.....
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Kev
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Re: Front suspension kit - VF

Post by Kev »

And with all this kinetic energy and hammering, please wear your safety gear.... :salute:
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The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
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Dave999
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 05 10:31 am
Location: Twickenham,London, England

Re: Front suspension kit - VF

Post by Dave999 »

indeed a chunk of hammer in your eye is not good, they have to pull it out with a magnet...
Eecoutez!:" A midi.
Quel heure est-il? Il est midi.
C'est l'heure de dejeuner. Qu'est-ce qu'il y a a manger?
Il y a saucisse, sans doute.
ecoutez et repetez. a midi.
quel heure est-il?
quel heure
quel heure est-il?
est-il?
il est midi.....
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