Dave999's Aussie Charger

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Kev
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Post by Kev »

Defo torque strap Dave. I broke a mount on my wheezy 245. Mind you, got one off the shelf down AutoBarn.....
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

hello kev

hows things

get a holley 500 on there
that will wake it up
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

well this weekend was the annual chestnut parade in Bushy park

open to anyone with an old car......

turn up
buff it a bit
drive down the mile long chestnust avenue adored by the crowd like you'd just won the FA cup

did it last year and good fun

so the kids all wanted a ride this year.....

drove the charger to work on friday

the tune on the webers was spot on when i left

when i got to work it was idling at 1700...

tweaked at lunch time

drove it home

blew out the exhaust/inlet gasket...

all off friday
new gasket
more care and attention
too late
back on it saturday morning

took it out

awful
wouldn't idle
A/F meter showing rich
wound the mixture screws in rich rich rich rich...

granny (mum) and aunt arriving on stop-over before holidays
wife off to do 1/2 marathon walk in aid of boobies in the middle of the night so asleep
promised to take kids to look at old buses and such at fullwell trolley bus festival

back on it at 10 pm saturday night after seeing off Mrs,feeding mum aunt and kids and doing the host bit

all carb tops off
all float levels reset.
got it running

14...on the meter
no farting
balanced

then noticed all throttle levers loose...how?? these have a metal tab to stop them coming undone
all nipped up.

wife back at 3:45 am walk done 500 for charity but i'd left my keys in the door
door bell ringing
not happy

sunday
granny (my mum) to station off on holiday

hour before we need to be on parade
seat belts back in
child seats in
dash put back together (had it apart weeks ago)
last quick tune up

off.......

smashin
all good
big grin

picked up mate and his kids
stuck in traffic to bushy park for 1/2 hour temp reaches 1/2 way on gauge usually at 1/4
idling at 2000 rpm
throttle sticking
engine rocking
peddle getting stiffer and stiffer

did parade at 2500 rpm burning clucth
anti social attempts to get throttle closed

nerve racking real Porsche 356 in front didn't want to bust his motor with the front of mine
hard to take off in stop start traffic going 5 mph at 2500 rpm with 6 kids in the car didn't want banged heads..crowd massive so no way out but onwards

picnic
carousel
ice cream

all home

lawn mowed
fish fed

tea, bath, storys, bed for the kids
back on it again

throttle shaft from 1 carb removed
compared with old school 45dcoe13 i had lying about

a poofteenth of a smidge shorter at the shoulder that stops the throttle lever binding on the bearing housing

dust cover disk rubs when carb is Hot
perfect when carb is cold...
so never managed a good tune


given these things ar 350 quid new each you'd think they'd apply some QA on the production line
6 small washers gap the size of the suez canal between dust cover and beraing mount now...but still screw the bearings least i won't wrap myself round a lamp post as easily as i could have

throttle levers on in a robust manner

its late sunday..street is peaceful so collected a seletion of spanners and small screw drivers
and a flash light

off, 3 circuits of twickers and the 316. idleing at 1200 rock solid not ideal but based on guess work ok

down to home-base into car park scare a bunch of traveling folk who have taken up residence

screw all the high tech stuff
tuned them like i used to do dellortos on the VWs
sense of smell
vibration
and fastest idle speed possible for given throttle opening
wind the throttle stops out incremntal 1/4 turns until

idleing 850
smooth
no farts
1 big black line across 3 spaces

kebab
bed

weekends are supposed to be relaxing

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Post by Guy »

Nice and quite at the moment then Dave ;)
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

glad to be back at work

change is as good as a rest

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

haven't updated this in years.

new motor in, out, in, out, in.
rebuilt close ratio 4 speed in out in.
rear axle rebuilt with Torqueline Torquelock centre, moser axles, new brakes and 3.45:1 ratio gears... in
new KYB Gas-Ajust rear shocks in

front end rebuild done
NOS brake calipers VJ GIRLOCK style done
better upper arms painted and NOS Mopar upper joints In
Lower joints Three 555 Japan In
TRW track rod ends
Mopar Multi Mileage barium grease everywhere.

Repco Lucas pitman
Repco Lucas Quinton Idler
Moog upper bushes
Moog strutrod bushes
Mackey Rubber lower arm bushes
New shocks in
AC Delco upper and lower bump stops in
new brake hoses done
new master cylinder seal done

16:1 ratio steering box rebuild done.


Lately I have been dicking about with steering boxes

Aussie box is a iron box that bolts to chassis
it was always my suspicion that the Australians cast the case and imported the complicated stuff for the inside.

Aussie Boxes come in 20:1 a couple of 100 of them were 16:1 and it was an R/T race option only. hence $1500 -$2000 outright for rebuilt boxes these days or $400 exchange.

trouble with an Australian 16:1 ratio box was it appeared to use a 70s ford length worm screw (the weird power box that used a manual box and a separate power assist unit) making it the only Chrysler box from 1960 until the mid 80s to need a longer steering shaft than any other Chrysler vehicle.
the spline and pin indent on the worm shaft was 1/2 an inch lower than any other.

didn't fancy a new steering shaft
didn't fancy an aussie rebuilt 16:1 box. most will be on second or 3rd rebuild.
the only other 16:1 ratio ballnut and screw was option on 67 and 68 US Darts and valiant. all LHD, I think they sold quite a few but stopped making them in the 70s. More hens teeth to look for


so I purchased a cheap 20:1 ratio ball-nut and screw from the US to prove that I could convert one to RHD.
turns out that although the part numbers vary widely, all manual ball-nuts and screws are the same components for mopar passenger cars from about 1960 until most of us stop caring in the 1980s.

just the LHD nut is on upside down for a RHD car.

so the nut came off and was put back the other way round so its RACK teeth would mesh with a sector towards the centre of the car when the box is mounted on the RHD chassis rail.
pig to do but manageable, just ignore the bit in the manual that states never dismantle the ballnut and screw.

Next the ball-nut and screw where held with a sector shaft in appropriate mesh, a photo was taken and used to start an interesting conversation with Firmfeel INC

after drawing a few pictures and sending some photos Firmfeel cautiously agreed that my theory about the internals being very similar was probably correct

they relived me of a chunk of cash and sent me a manual steering box rebuild kit, featuring improved lower sector bearing, Mid and Cap bearings + cage bearings and seals
they also sent a Brand new 16:1 ball-nut and screw.

so I pulled the box out of the car
stripped it down
washed out the grease
bashed out all the bearings using a selection of sockets and extensions.

and compared parts

yes the ballnut was the wrong way round
yes the wormshaft was identical in thread direction and ball bearing surface size and length

so I swapped the new nut round.

I then discovered that MR bodger had previously been "at home " with my sector shaft and had tried to reclaim what was probably a very worn Aussie sector by filing the teeth back to shape.

trouble was the teeth are trapezoid shaped in two planes and they had been done so the thin end was at the wrong end.

needed a new sector.

The part used in US and Aus had same number from 1962 until 1973 and its superseded part was in the Mopar catalogue until 2004
so I got a 2004 version from

http://www.MMPar.com

Very useful people, why by replacement parts when you can get new old stuff?


this involved cross ref 1962-1970 Aussie parts book with every year US parts book from 62- 76.

anyway bashed it all together

sprayed it black and I now have a Brand New Steering box with absolutely no slop what so ever and in a Modern ratio.

it kicks ass its the best upgrade I have done and after 5-6 years of research, off and on, some risky but successful purchases I was able to post up my findings on an aussie board.


I'll stick up some pictures tomorrow

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Dave999
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Dave999 »

OK i have been messing about planning a T5 conversion. I Fancy a 5 speed. But don't want to cut the floor or cross member.
This might fall into the too hard category. but he who dares etc.

Got the T5 via a Ron Fenton delivery last year

1999-2004 ford mustang T5 i.e a tremec xxxx-xxx-260
stupid overdrive ratio of 0.63, but thats why its not ford sierra money
This box got the longer input shaft length like the ford racing box of the mid 90s
it also got the better alloy gears and full roller bearing set up from that box
it foregoes the pocket bearing input shaft. (not bothered its a 300 ftlb box and my original TR4 4 Speed was ok rated at 240)
but gains a reverse idler brake and better synchros on 5th and reverse
its has a electronic speedo tone ring right up near the main case and the hole for the pickup is perpendicular to the shaft.

Things to overcome first

1)I Need a mechanical speedo. I refuse point blank to pay 300-400 for an electronic box when plastic gears cost $25
2) Need mechanical speedo tailshaft housing. the hole in the ford one is direct into the shaft not angled over or under it for gear drive
3) After a mock up alongside a standard 4 speed even more obvious was the need for a mechanical speedo tailshaft housing with the stick in better position, The mustang one wants to go through the cross member hump and to complicate matters it needs the correct machining inside for the reverse idler
4) need bellhousing, want to keep standard clutch arm , so need standard bell and adapter
5) Adapter needs to site the input spline in right place for driven plate, the input shaft spigot in right place for spigot bush and to some extent stick and mount in right place.
6) input bearing retainer might need cutting down.

Anyway, I made a start by pulling off the tailshaft housing to see what was what in respect to speedo drive.
Discovered that the output has the fat bit where the mechanical speedo gears would have gone on earlier versions.
to the left right up behind 5th is the current reluctor tone ring for the electric speedo in the mustang.

I got a 28 mm double split shaft collar, drilled it to use as a fixture to assist with drilling the shaft 1.5mm deep for the speedo gear clip
My best drill bit is now dead. Shaft showed no impact. You just can't drill hardened steel at home....
So a new solution was sort
Shaft collar holds 0.9mm metal shim with a section cut out with a tab that fits through the retaining clip for the gear
clamp the sleeve and the gear can't move , held in the normal way by its retaining spring, and my heath robinson clamp holds that spring to the shaft. hopefully job done.
You can buy a kit in the US to do this but £10 spent with bearing-boys provided much the same solution

note also a rubber bit around the shaft pushed right back to the left in one of the pictures.
These gearboxes were supplied pre filled with oil. That rubber bit sat on the very end of the output shaft spline sealing the output shaft to the output seal and stopping the oil falling out. On first install of the yoke it gets pushed back into the trans and lives there from then on. handy....

next move is to get the new tailhousing on.. prove speedo drive works, mock it up with bellhousing on the back of a motor to work out
1) where the clutch will sit in relation to the input spline
2) where the spigot bush needs to go, ideally into a roller bearing conversion stuffed in the torque converter register in the middle of the crank hub
3) then work out thickness of the adaptor. followed by a trip to either Trev D or an engineering shop in watford for a steel adaptor plate.


might have to invest in one of these

http://store.uscartool.com/67-75-A-Body ... p_141.html

looks the buisness, and comes in bits for custom assembly.

anyway more in a few months :) when i get round to it


T5 with ford housing showing the electronic speedo hole and poor stick position of the mustang
T5 with ford housing showing the electronic speedo hole and poor stick position of the mustang
20171119_154813.jpg (139.29 KiB) Viewed 2647 times
Housing off. note the fat bit on the shaft for the old style mechanical speedo.  Just my luck it is not drilled for the clip that retains the gear.  I have a shaft collar bolted to it to assist with drilling....Ha, that didn't work....  note the rubber thing around the shaft  up by the gears...  Ive pulled that off and kept it for later
Housing off. note the fat bit on the shaft for the old style mechanical speedo. Just my luck it is not drilled for the clip that retains the gear. I have a shaft collar bolted to it to assist with drilling....Ha, that didn't work.... note the rubber thing around the shaft up by the gears... Ive pulled that off and kept it for later
20171119_154836.jpg (154.29 KiB) Viewed 2647 times
Aussie T5 housing, made by BTR, with speedo drive on other side at the right angle and and in the right place  and a much better stick position.   Aussie's use speedo drive cog and speedo pickup cog  that run backwards  due to going in the other side.  of the housing. US Ford and GM speedo cogs won't work on this side,  unless you drive backwards all the time.
Aussie T5 housing, made by BTR, with speedo drive on other side at the right angle and and in the right place and a much better stick position. Aussie's use speedo drive cog and speedo pickup cog that run backwards due to going in the other side. of the housing. US Ford and GM speedo cogs won't work on this side, unless you drive backwards all the time.
20171119_154857.jpg (143.14 KiB) Viewed 2647 times
speedo gear section. with collar moved back
speedo gear section. with collar moved back
20171119_155001.jpg (128.31 KiB) Viewed 2647 times
solution.   we'll see if this causes massive vibrations or not.  i put the weighty bit close to the gears not wanging about up the tail end of the shaft.   Might help. might not.
solution. we'll see if this causes massive vibrations or not. i put the weighty bit close to the gears not wanging about up the tail end of the shaft. Might help. might not.
20171125_163747.jpg (123.89 KiB) Viewed 2647 times
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Dave999
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Dave999 »

well i have done nothing with the T5 other than get the bellhousing adaptor bolted on to the housing.

so instead i fitted some seat belts in the back.

purchased a set of 80s Kangol parcel shelf retractors about 8 years ago and left them to get dusty on a shelf
these are seat belts that only work when bolted to a horizontal mount not vertical

they come with a double free-end anchor so that a loop comes down the seat back to act as an adjustable top drop link for the cross body belt

I had previously tried to fit them just after purchase only to discover something that with hindsight was quite obvious

cars with upper mounts for fixed seat belts have them tucked up tight in corners becasue they don't need to cater for a massive inertia real....

hence i'd guess most mopars of the era that got mounts but no belts will suffer the same problem.

My original fixed belts were so UV damaged that their original black had faded to purple and beige. i doubt they would have actually done anything useful and following the aussie standard the buckles and webbing were, as far as i was considered inferior to our british standard belts of the time.

any way after a long search i found these

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bracket-a ... 514-5.html

a reasonably kick-ass solution to the problem

an afternoon of swearing followed and this is the result.

look a bit incongruous but i have sat in the back and thrown my self into the belt with force and my face only gently hit the headrest.

apologies for poor photos it was getting dark and i'd used my phone battery for the light so i could see what i was doing


next move full set of kangol reflex as per UK import Mopars from oz...in the front

just need these to arrive
https://www.hemiperformance.com.au/shop ... -link.html

dismantle my new belts down to the nuts and bolts to get the free end through the loop and rebuild em

drop links handy for 2 and four door hard tops and coupes

or indeed anything with the upper belt mount in the roof rail rather than in the B pillar

stops yer ead gettin cut orf....to put it bluntly



Dave
Attachments
20181103_164034[1].jpg
20181103_164034[1].jpg (39.25 KiB) Viewed 2614 times
20181103_164041[1].jpg
20181103_164041[1].jpg (52.21 KiB) Viewed 2614 times
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Cannonball »

nice work Dave,, keep it coming,, :)
www.dwatts80.fsnet.co.uk

WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, CLOBBER THE COMPETITION ITS CLOBBERIN TIME

OFTEN OUTNUMBERED NEVER OUTGUNNED,

HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,

I HAVE A NVQW

LIFE GOES PRETTY FAST, IF YOU DONT LOOK ROUND A WHILE YOU MAY JUST MISS IT,

THE PASS IS THE JUICE,

LOVED BY FEW,
HATED BY MANY
RESPECTED BY ALL
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by lough3969 »

:atthemovies:
Pimps in the Front
Hoes in the Back
Chumps in the Trunk

68 Dart Post
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Dave999
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Dave999 »

well i had great plans for the weekend. but ended up fixing the screen washer....

fuse went pop....
motor dismantled and cleaned and greased.... seized solid but not anymore had to make a screw driver for the smaller than sun glasses tiny screws.

squirters were blocked as well....used a single strand of a yard sweeping broom up one end and an unwound safety pin down the other full of black stuff.
2 hours later flowing freely

really could not be bothered with much else after that it was raining and cold.

next week
Ford EDIS6 ignition and T5 work maybe

and I've had some stuff plastic printed for fixing aussie ignition switches. but it is top secret until i check it works...I might do that tonight.

:)
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Cannonball »

Dave999 wrote: Mon Nov 12, 18 12:02 pm well i had great plans for the weekend. but ended up fixing the screen washer....

fuse went pop....
motor dismantled and cleaned and greased.... seized solid but not anymore had to make a screw driver for the smaller than sun glasses tiny screws.

squirters were blocked as well....used a single strand of a yard sweeping broom up one end and an unwound safety pin down the other full of black stuff.
2 hours later flowing freely

really could not be bothered with much else after that it was raining and cold.

next week
Ford EDIS6 ignition and T5 work maybe

and I've had some stuff plastic printed for fixing aussie ignition switches. but it is top secret until i check it works...I might do that tonight.

:)
Dave

what about the msd ??? :shock: :shock: :shock: :cry: :cry: :D :D :D
www.dwatts80.fsnet.co.uk

WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, CLOBBER THE COMPETITION ITS CLOBBERIN TIME

OFTEN OUTNUMBERED NEVER OUTGUNNED,

HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,

I HAVE A NVQW

LIFE GOES PRETTY FAST, IF YOU DONT LOOK ROUND A WHILE YOU MAY JUST MISS IT,

THE PASS IS THE JUICE,

LOVED BY FEW,
HATED BY MANY
RESPECTED BY ALL
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Dave999
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Location: Twickenham,London, England

Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Dave999 »

I have purchased a magnifying glass

i'll have another go

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Dave999
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Dave999 »

adventures with bits of switch.

Aussie ignition switches VH- CM usually fail due to the main plastic part cracking and allowing the contact to short out on the case melting the springs and causing a fire.

the plastic part has many functions
1) needs to fit onto the end of the drive from the lock barrel which is a rectangular shape with slightly bowed sides
2) needs to have 6 indents in the top side so that ball bearings can act as detent balls for switch positions
3) needs a 3 step spring guide to clamp spring and leave space for spring arm to engage with housing. needs back stop to stop switch going too far back when steering lock position is chosen
4) main body needs to be right diameter and thickness
5) base needs 3 4.2mm holes for springs
6) base needs offset drive for copper contact
7) base needs spigot on the bottom to engage with switch base centre
8) plastic part must move up and down in housing to allow steering lock PRESS to engage function so can't be too thick.

plastic printing can't really print a part easily that is narrower at the base than the middle
easiest option was to get it made in 2 parts and glue it together

material is as hard as bakelite but a little more flexible. i.e unlikely to crumble

seems to work ok

will probably see if any aussies want some and get some more made

switches are otherwise $150-200 which for an ignition switch that is just as likely to fail as the one you just broke seems a bit steep.

could not have done this without my mate paul photographing and manually measuring to make up the 3d model...

none of these switches made since about 1978. company bankrupt and the switch is unique to CAL

Dave
Attachments
spare getting screwed and glued
spare getting screwed and glued
assembly.jpg (57.62 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
checking it fits and turns and the spring doesn't break the new part
checking it fits and turns and the spring doesn't break the new part
installed in housing.jpg (35.41 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
main switch contact sits like this and floats on springs
main switch contact sits like this and floats on springs
contact fit (2).jpg (57.88 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
complext shape
complext shape
new bit showing offset drive.jpg (71.23 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
groove for spring modified to keep it aligned better under tension
groove for spring modified to keep it aligned better under tension
new bit showing spring fit.jpg (76.04 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
3D printing can't print the shape as 1 part so i needed to make it in 2 parts and glue it together. screws to help . None of this can be metal due to shorting out
3D printing can't print the shape as 1 part so i needed to make it in 2 parts and glue it together. screws to help . None of this can be metal due to shorting out
new bit glued and screwed.jpg (76.43 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
Printed by makeitquick.com
Printed by makeitquick.com
new printed bits.jpg (66.51 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
one i repaired earlier with experimental plastic part
one i repaired earlier with experimental plastic part
repaired igition switch.jpg (54.78 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
Aussie switches fail by cracking this drive/spring part
Aussie switches fail by cracking this drive/spring part
cracked bits.jpg (82.87 KiB) Viewed 2540 times
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Dave999
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Re: Dave999's Aussie Charger

Post by Dave999 »

T5 Fandango

Got a new tailhousing from Oz. its off a holden and has a ford shifter box in the reverse position
speedo drive on opposite side from all others but as can be seen my heath robinson speed gear fix seems to have them in the right place

1) needed an adapter of correct thickness
2) needed an adapter the covered all bellhousing and box flange mounting holes
3) needed an adapter with a centreing spigot that was the same or just a bit bigger than the hole in the standard bell so that any boring did not encroach on the clutch fork mounting bolt holes or breach the low top/back of the housing

achieved 1 and 3... anything that covered all 8 holes without any sharing the same space or banging into any pre drilled holes for the adapters proper application were either too thin or had a bellhousing spigot so large that my bell housing would no longer be viable after boring

took the cheapskate option space for 3 bolts and a workable sized spigot.

drill and thread 4th hole and hope all is well

need 4th hole counter sunk for the flat head bolts. so will need to come apart ande visit a machine shop. i don't have a big enough drill chuck for the size of tool necessary to counter sink these holes

used unbrako bolts so should be pretty tuff

next move
1) finish adpater
2) bolt bell to standard gearbox and mark out points of interest along the floor. i.e cross member/ mount etc
3) put bell and adaptor onto T5 check against marks on the floor
4) work out what needs doing next to get box into car without having to cut any bits off the car
5) cut bits off the box instead

purchased new top cover, lower profile. comes off a chevy s10 world class box
purchased off set levers might be handy
purchased a few shift rails for cutting up ...


Dave
Attachments
box.jpg
box.jpg (58.09 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
S10 top with lever.jpg
S10 top with lever.jpg (44.75 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
new top.jpg
new top.jpg (42.5 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
speedo sorted.jpg
speedo sorted.jpg (58.46 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
assembled bell and box.jpg
assembled bell and box.jpg (56.81 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
bellhousing.jpg
bellhousing.jpg (51.03 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
bellhusing adapter.jpg
bellhusing adapter.jpg (42.42 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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