Here's what the guru Dr Diff has to say
<<Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.
First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).
In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.
Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.
Most guys who have problems with Green Bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.
I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.>>
As Martin says, it appears the standard oil sealing can be an issue in circuit racing. I'm still getting a little leakage through the stock seals after replacing with new, and improving the axle breathing. So I thought I'd give the green bearings a go (also with a view to reducing end float)
Apparently the later snap-ring version of the Green Bearings was designed after input from Moser. Which should be worth something, I guess.
If money were not an issue, Strange do a proper full-floater kit that also allows toe-in and negative camber adjustments!
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