Dave's 1969 Plymouth

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Feb 10, 20 9:44 am

Right then.
Were to start?

Some pictures of this Plymouth Road Runner look-alike.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Feb 10, 20 10:15 am

Now the issues so far.

As notified by a previous owner the headers rattle against the suspension when in drive at the traffic lights. Quite loud with the windows open actually.
Put it in neutral and it is fine. So rather than taking a hammer to them I will start by looking at the engine and transmission mounts. Possibly weld the drivers side mount up solid. See if that sorts it.

Speedo needle flickers and makes a noise. Two spare speedos came with the car but it might be the end of the cable not quite long enough or something. This one is going way down the to-do list.

Starter motor is sticking. Solenoid and relay are working. Good hard thump with a hammer sorts it. I might just need to remove it and clean/lubricate rather than replace it. Time will tell.

Not sure the current transmission shifter is quite right. Not sure it pulls back into 1st gear position. Further inspection needed.

The engine was running fine but rich as hell. Stunk the whole house out when parked in the garage. Diana did her nut. Checked the timing. Struggling to see the timing marks as the alternator belt is too short which means the alternator is too low and blocking my view. I will need a longer belt.

Also I noticed the idle mixture screws were turned almost right out. So I put a vacuum gauge on and turned them in to get max manifold vacuum. Car smelt much better straight away. 17" of vacuum. But now when out driving at anything over about 40mph it starts missing and flooring it it is like a bag of hammers with a very lean condition and backfires through the exhaust as well as the carbs.

Back home I checked the fuel levels in the carb bowls. Very low. Looks like only a quarter inch deep in each one. That could be the reason but i intend to take the six pack apart anyway to block off the heat risers and tune to Mopar performance spec.

At the same time I checked the master cylinder as I did not feel happy with the brakes. There has been a previous "overflowing" of brake fluid from the master cylinder that has damaged the paint on the inner fender. No sign of a leak now but when I removed the cover from it it looks like perhaps the complete lack of brake fluid left in the master cylinder for the rear brakes might have been the cure for that symptom.

The most upsetting fault though is the Road Runner horn is not working. I can't go "Beep Beep".

So plenty to keep me busy in the garage for a while here.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Feb 10, 20 10:22 am

But now when out driving at anything over about 40mph it starts missing and flooring it it is like a bag of hammers with a very lean condition and backfires through the exhaust as well as the carbs.

I've got this at the moment - stinky-bang-bang - it didnt do it so I was chasing it through plugs/wires/coild - assumed I was ignition-missing/hiccuping. Didnt think of this... Never touched the screws...

All sounds like stuff you can tinker with Dave - and car looks superb. I enjoyed the bit about "stunk the house. Diana did her nut". This used to happen to me when I used an integral garage. It seeps through...

Most distressing is the beepbeep. #1 job

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Feb 10, 20 11:38 am

Are you going to convert the carbs to manual operation like your Challenger? I assume you know fitech make a six pack fuel injection set up these days?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Feb 10, 20 12:47 pm

Congratulations, Dave.

That will give you something to tinker with and angst over....

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Feb 10, 20 3:52 pm

Blue wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 20 11:38 am Are you going to convert the carbs to manual operation like your Challenger? I assume you know fitech make a six pack fuel injection set up these days?

No Blue I am going to keep this one closer to stock. Although as a "triple squirter" the throttle response was bloody awesome.

Yes seen those FI kits. But the cost would outweigh the performance improvement (assuming I get this right).

I did want a car that needed a little tinkering. perhaps not as much as this but it will be interesting and keep my brain working.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Feb 10, 20 3:54 pm

morgan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 20 10:22 am
Most distressing is the beepbeep. #1 job

If I can't make it go "beep beep" I'm selling it.

Stu Twin · Post by **Stu Twin** » Tue Feb 11, 20 1:18 pm

Dave-R wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 20 3:54 pm
morgan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 20 10:22 am
Most distressing is the beepbeep. #1 job
If I can't make it go "beep beep" I'm selling it.

Thought it was 'meep meep' ?

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Tue Feb 11, 20 1:33 pm

Stu Twin wrote: ↑Tue Feb 11, 20 1:18 pm
Dave-R wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 20 3:54 pm
morgan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 20 10:22 am
Most distressing is the beepbeep. #1 job
If I can't make it go "beep beep" I'm selling it.
Thought it was 'meep meep' ?

He's new to this Plymouth lark, he'll learn

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Feb 11, 20 1:35 pm

"Meep Meep" is down to your dexterity.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Feb 12, 20 3:58 pm

I would be happy with a raspberry sound right now....

Anyway. Been dealing with arraignments for my late father and his Will so not had much time this week so far but tonight and tomorrow I at last I have some time to make a start on this car. And that is where I am going to start. With the sticking starter motor.

Starter motors can stick for two reasons that I can think of. One is the solenoid itself sticking and not engaging the motor. The other is the motor brushes worn or sticking. Typically if a tap with a hammer or jack handle makes it start to work again and it just sticks now and again the problem is usually with the brushes.

This starter is a mini starter and is probably not got that old. So I am hoping it is not the brushes worn out but just something that needs a clean, re-inserting or WD40 or something. Fingers crossed I don't have to remove the header to get it out but I have found a spare header gasket if needed.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Feb 12, 20 5:56 pm

You can get a mini starter out with some makes of header, I've done it. You'll remember to check for block clearance with the starter I'm sure, that's a favourite for issues. Other than that a strip and check will no doubt sort it, I had a new one that messed about and it was a spring clip not fitted correctly on one of the brushes.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Wed Feb 12, 20 9:07 pm

Cant get them out with my headers (typical!) - have to pop a torsion bar to wiggle it out.
I've lost a mini-starter too and for what its worth I think its heat that kills them - the second one I have fitted with a heat-jacket to try and protect it a little - so far so good. It was about $10 or something...

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Feb 13, 20 11:32 am

Well it wasn't easy but the starter is out.

Had to remove the plugs and dipstick tube, unbolt the header and engine mount, lift that side of the engine in inch or so, spit anti freeze out of my mouth, and swear a lot.

Engine mount on drivers side dose not line up correctly to the K-frame for some reason. Pass side looks normal. Trans mount looks normal. No idea what's going on there. Might need to up my swearing to get it back on.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Feb 13, 20 11:47 am

Couldn't help but notice they used all new ball joints during the quality restoration it had in the USA,

Mopar Muscle Association UK

Dave's 1969 Plymouth

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