Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Just tried it and no different. But! (Big but!) I noticed the stud the cable attaches to on the alternator was "wobbly" I've redone that and it's now reading 12.6v on tickover and late 13v while rev'ing. So I'm hoping that was my issue!
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
SJH
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Post by SJH »

FYI mine shows 13.7 to 14.5 V when running and 12.6/12.7v when not running
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Mines not going over 13.8v when running/at revs even after a run. But it is charging thankfully! :)
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
Ed
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Post by Ed »

I forgot about that. My alternator was like that too.

At least it was an easy and free fix. :)
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Till the next one! :lol:

I an going to replace the battery cables and engine to bulkhead cables soon as they are looking tired.
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Changed all alternator to starter relay to battery and starter cables for new ones today. Car is starting and running fine. I'm getting 13.5-13.8v at revs, but only 12.5v at idle. Is that ok, or do I still have a charging issue?
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
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Dave81
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Post by Dave81 »

XP29 wrote:Changed all alternator to starter relay to battery and starter cables for new ones today. Car is starting and running fine. I'm getting 13.5-13.8v at revs, but only 12.5v at idle. Is that ok, or do I still have a charging issue?
Still too low Chris.

All that it's showing you is battery voltage. Under any load mine is always 14v plus (regulated at 14.8).

It must be the charging circuit. Have you run cable direct from alt to battery?
Dave Tildesley.....MMA-081
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD

I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!

"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Dave81 wrote:
XP29 wrote:Changed all alternator to starter relay to battery and starter cables for new ones today. Car is starting and running fine. I'm getting 13.5-13.8v at revs, but only 12.5v at idle. Is that ok, or do I still have a charging issue?
Still too low Chris.

All that it's showing you is battery voltage. Under any load mine is always 14v plus (regulated at 14.8).

It must be the charging circuit. Have you run cable direct from alt to battery?
I've run a cable from alternator to the big stud on starter relay, then just replaced the cables from there to battery and starter with new. The alternator looks to be a recent replacement (as in fitted before we bought it but had to be summer 2014) REMY 20160 50Amp unit.
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Just got car out and I'm now getting

13v at idle
14.5v at 2000rpm
16v at 3000rpm
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

That's not regulating properly, you'll boil the battery on a run. There seems to be a quality issue with replacement Mopar alternators and regulators, for the last few years, the failure rate among members has been very high. If you are not totally worried about 100% accuracy, fit a modern internally regulated Denso alternator and kiss you charging issues goodbye for good.
There are 3 mods I would always advise anyone to do on an old Mopar for reliability, mini starter, Electronic ignition and a Denso alternator.
“This ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, this ain’t no foolin’ around”
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

Oh, Bugger! I'm not sure how good the regulator is in my car, if its original or repo. I have ordered a replacement stock looking unit that has solid state intervals so is supposed to be reliable.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121703672807

If I do go the Denso route, what's a good 50A unit? Also what wiring mod would I need to do?
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
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drewcrane
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Post by drewcrane »

Blue wrote:That's not regulating properly, you'll boil the battery on a run. There seems to be a quality issue with replacement Mopar alternators and regulators, for the last few years, the failure rate among members has been very high. If you are not totally worried about 100% accuracy, fit a modern internally regulated Denso alternator and kiss you charging issues goodbye for good.
There are 3 mods I would always advise anyone to do on an old Mopar for reliability, mini starter, Electronic ignition and a Denso alternator.
Yes alot of people that don't worry about origonality go with the Denso.

I have a 100 amp unit made by tuff stuff and have not had any problems pricey yes(200 BUCKS), but very reliable


http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/i-2 ... 9rcsp.html :mytwocents:
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

I use these,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-NIPPO ... SwUdlWcElp

Easily man enough unless you have electric engine fan, fuel pump, stupid big stereo etc. Easy to wire, big cable to the battery, small cable to bypass the regulator, you can fit a charge light if you want still works if you don't. Will fit the stock brackets with minimal work usually.
“This ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, this ain’t no foolin’ around”
MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

If you do go one wire, I have a 75 amp unused Powermaster unit sat on the shelf that I don't need. Mopar fitment.
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XP29
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Post by XP29 »

As I already have the solid state regulator on its way my thought is to try that first. If I have further issue and need to replace the alternator I will go the internal regulator route. That said it seemed fine today, only drove for 1/2 hour to 40 mins though. Now battery with ignition off is testing at 13.5v
1966 Charger, 383 4bbl, 4 speed manual trans, Sure-grip, original paint.
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