Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

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MattH
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by MattH »

Pete, Now I've seen you are working on a Cuda I can comment.
I did the ammeter bypass on my Challenger without removing the dash.
I did as suggested by Dave and ran the BIG wire externally to the loom, bypassing the bulkhead connector, leaving the old one in place. I think i fed it through a space in the bulkhead connector. I have then used the ammeter as a connector point only, by only connecting to one side of it, so it does not work now. This was several years ago so I may have forgotten some aspects of it, but it was worth doing for peace of mind and I did it without removing much (I have no A/C on my car).

Also regard alternators, i fitted a one wire set up, which has the regulator within it, much like a Lucas style alternator from a UK car. Simple, easy and works much better, my lights actually light things up at night now, they used to be awful, and it does away with the control box on the bulkhead. It might not look completely original, it depends how important that it to you.

I know Blue has a good idea on small powerful alternators, for weight and space saving which work well, i think from Kubota generators. He would be able to confirm.
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Blue
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Blue »

I use Denso 45 amp alternators on my cars, small, reliable and plenty of output at idle. Mancini racing have a 60amp Denso alternator kit that should provide enough output for the average electric fan user. Like Morgan I am not in favour of fitting auxiliary electric fans because the car gets hot in traffic, it's just a band aid, fix the problem! My cars don't run hot in traffic or at any other time , and I believe timing is a big factor. Retarded timing causes heat, and I'm talking about cam timing not just distributor timing.
For those that I haven't already bored with my personal hobby horse here goes again, Cloyes timing chains.
The biggest and probably most popular supplier of timing sets, Comp. cams, Lunati, Hughes, Summit etc, all made by Cloyes.
Cloyes quality control is awful, has been for years and still is as I found out last year trying to dial in a Hughes, which when I ran the numbers had a Cloyes part no. stamped on it.
Cloyes sets when you just line up the dots can be 4 to 6 degrees out, advanced, retarded, nearly right, all over the place. So, the vast majority of people wether they are rebuilding an engine or just replacing a timing set, line up the dots and don't check with a degree wheel to see the cam position is correct. In my experience unless you use a top quality billet steel timing set (which is'nt that expensive), cam position will be incorrect and will need adjustment.
So, in short I suspect there's a whole load of cars out there with the cam installed retarded, lacking in performance and getting hot in traffic.
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Pete
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Pete »

I totally agree with everything Blue says.

I ALWAYS degree a camshaft in, the "Dots" are just not reliable enough and it does not mean that the cam timing is correct, or that even your Valve to Piston clearance is adequate.

I have spent HOURS checking the cam timing on the big Hemi.
The Cam card said that the Intake Centreline was 109 degrees.
I measured it (many many times) and is NOT!

The previous builder set the Centreline at 112.5 Degrees - retarded!
Probably done to preserve a conservative V-T-P clearance but it causes other problems - lack of torque at the bottom end, but it flies at the top end of the track, plus heat!

There is a lot of difference between assembling an engine and BUILDING one. It takes a long time to get everything correct, especially if there are very tight operating clearances involved.

All these factors have a big knock on in terms of performance, engine characteristics and consequent problems.

One final thing - both My Hemis are Gear-timed, not chains.

The ONLY chain set I would use are the Australian "Rollmaster" ones, which are becoming much harder to obtain.
They are expensive but by far the best in terms of build quality, materials, and accuracy.
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Blue
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Blue »

Yes Rollmaster are good, as surprisingly are 440 Source billet, which are made in China and Hughes billet, all of those I have found to be spot on or within 1 degree which is an acceptable tolerance. You shouldn't have to be this careful with a normal road engine, lining up the dots ought to suffice but you just can't trust the parts unfortunately.
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Pete »

I agree, Blue; but my case in point on the Hemi - introducing a 2 degree advance on the cam with an offset bush reduced the Valve to Piston clearance to 0.074"

Check, check, check...

You still don't know if your "normal" road going low tune car with its "dots-aligned" cam is running retarded (and thus over-heating) unless you check.....
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Blue
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Blue »

Yep, and that was my point.
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Pete »

Blue wrote: Fri Apr 17, 20 3:30 pm Yep, and that was my point.
:thumbright: :thumbright: :thumbright: :thumbright: :salute:
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petebryan
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by petebryan »

Thanks for further responses Pete, Morgan, Matt, Blue; again much appreciated.

I thought I might get a bit of a kicking over the fan so thanks for going relatively easy on me and actually being very constructive! Morgan, yes, it's a very stock 383, and the point about them being designed for Texas makes the whole thing the more frustrating. I'm starting to assume there were never any 40 minute traffic jams in 1970s Texas....

I do understand I'm masking the problem, and hopefully it's just a stop gap till it get it fixed properly as you say. I've done a full re-core of the rad (3 core I think), still running stock shroud and mechanical fan; I've upgraded to high power Flowkooler water pump (the old one looked fine, couldn't see any cavitation after replacing it though) and new thermostat for good measure (just in case). Your own cooling thread was pure deja vu! Net result is that it runs cooler when moving, but still overheats in traffic. I'm not quite at Basil Faulty yet but it's starting to spoil my enjoyment.

The points about timing are really interesting. I've seen reference to it before in connection with overheating but had ignored it on the basis that the engine runs really sweetly so assumed there couldn't be a problem, i.e. i'd always associated timing problems with poor running and starting, which isn't the case with mine. Is it possible I could have a timing problems without any other symptoms other than overheating in traffic?

I'm going to do some reading on the mechanical vs vacuum advance point. Blue and Pete, interesting comments on reasons for timing problems etc. I'll have to find someone more an expert than me to look at that - is that stuff re timing setup well understood among classic american mechanics? I've used Martin at RPM and North American in Farnborough for occasional bits of mechanical work previously so am guessing they'd recognise your recommended approach.

Matt, thanks; good to know the ammeter removal can be done by just removing the dash without the steering column, that's a relief. Also useful to hear about your one-wire alternator, I've been reading about those too. Some forum posts I've read say that they produce less current at idle, but they do sounds practical, so more reading to do. I could leave the regulator in place so it looks stock, if they're more practical. I also want something that looks as stock as possible, so it's all a bit of a trade off. I'll look at those Denso alternators that Blue recommended (are they one wire too?).

I'm off to order various bits of electrical cable and connectors then!

Thanks to all again.
1970 Plymouth Cuda 383.
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MattH
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by MattH »

Pete, I didn't remove the dash at all, just reached up behind it from the foot well to access the ammeter wires.
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Pete
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Pete »

MattH wrote: Sun Apr 19, 20 8:49 am Pete, I didn't remove the dash at all, just reached up behind it from the foot well to access the ammeter wires.
I had no wires with insulation left, so not much choice!!

On an "E" body it is quite easy to get the dash pad out, whereas it is a "Screen out" job on an "A" body.....
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Blue
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Blue »

It is possible that the cam timing can be retarded and the engine stills seems to run fine apart from it getting hot. Performance would be a bit flat but with a big torquey engine unless you are in the habit of driving it hard that might not be apparent. Would the average mechanic know this stuff? possibly not, race orientated operations definatly will, Dave Billadeau, Thunder road, Hauser racing come to mind and no doubt Martin Saville would have the knowledge to get it right. Denso Alternators are not usually single wire but they don't require an external regulator, they are on my list of must haves for reliable use, a mini starter and electronic ignition being the others.
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Pete »

For avoidance of doubt there are 2 "Thunder Roads" :shock: :shock:

"Thunder Road Speedshop" down in Aldershot way, and "Thunder Road Cars" (known as "Head office"!!!) who build and race cars (Circuit, FIA, and Drag Racing), and are based in North London.

;) ;) ;)
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Dave999
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Dave999 »

ROMAC/ROLLMASTER

mr romac retired and sold his business about 15 years ago

however it continues at

https://www.norndaautomotive.com.au/rollmaster.html

https://www.norndaautomotive.com.au/our-brands.html

also sold through Romac USA

i have their Steal balancer and multi keyway timing set and both were pretty damn good fit finish and set up i.e 0* on the balancer was as far as i can tell 0* and the timing set went in no probs

aussie gears and balancers cnc- ed steel, with German IWIS chain

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Dave999
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Dave999 »

ps timing and mixture

a move from 2 and 4 barrel carbs on my straight six, to a set of 3 webers. improved fuel distribution so much that the temp gauge now rides at the 1/3 - 1/2 position not 1/2 to 3/4 ... ( a 4 hole spacer, phenolic plastic if you can, under your carb might help....

mainly becasue the headers run so much cooler due to the fact i can now tune all cylinders to "pretty good" at idle... not just 3 or 4 out of the six

with the 4bbl on my motor you had to tune to get the rear running cool, (its miles away from the water pump) which meant 1 and 6 were fine but 2345 were rich
if you got 2345 nearly right 1 and 6 ran lean at idle
all worked perfectly great at moderete and high RPM....i used a massive long-ram manifold, 3 runner lengths more or less straight shot, good torque curve but at idle it was Bananarama! poor, and of course thats what its doing when stuck in traffic. lean on 2, ok on 2 and it firing burning fuel in to the headers on the other 2....HOT under bonnet situation ensues.

issue was always not a problem with the standard pea shooter 2bbl inlet and carb. it was in essence, very small for the motor....great for a snow plough or tractor.

dave
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Pete
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Re: Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Post by Pete »

Sounds like you are missing on two, Dave!!!!!

;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
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