Head gasket??

[Powermyster]

Little back story....

I had the car out one day and had a leak from an exhaust manifold bolt. Pulled the manifold put studs in instead. Sealed threads new gaskets and rocker cover gaskets to stop a little weep there and ran her again.

I noticed a leak and thought, damn I didn’t seal a stud... when I went to investigate and manifold studs look good. On close inspection I seem to have sprung a leak from a head bolt on my 383. As far as I can tell it’s a blind hole on the block, is that right?

Car is starting and running ok and no overheating though I haven’t taken her for a proper run just yet, I’m guessing only way I can get a leak there is gasket failure around water jacket working it’s way up and out. Thoughts please

[Pete]

Head Bolts are not blind, they go into the Water Jacket.
Not usually a problem though...

[Powermyster]

I see. I didn’t think the cylinder head bolts went into the jackets too.

[Dave999]

you could try Kalimex K-seal..... one "snake oil" that actually works, and well your snake definitely isn't oily after you use it, Quentin wilson isn't involved in its advertising so all should be well.

dump coolant into bucket
fill with water
add K seal
run/drive until the oozing stops... can take quite a while as the area needs to be HOT

few days/weeks later dump k-seal/water
put back coolant

saves taking head bolt out and aggravating head gasket or slight head warp

if it doesn;t work. well.. least you tried with minimal disruption to functioning motor


i may be paranoid but i have used it when i fill up fir the first time/ run in on a new MLS head gasket. there is potentially no need with an iron head on an iron block but.... gaskets cost more than £15

K seal does lots of stuff rad weld should, but doesn't

Dave

[Powermyster]

Cheers Dave.

Someone else recommended K seal. I was a little skeptical as never used anything like it and wondered if it leads to problems if it comes time to do the head gasket, leaving residues etc.

Pulled the manifold tonight and there is a frost plug right above that head bolt that seems wet. Seems like it might be coming from there. Might throw a new one before trying any of the snake oils

[DaveB]

The head bolts dont go into water on a BB or SB mopar, your probably correct on head core plug, if its rusting through, chances are, all the core plugs are rusty, so may cause problems in the future,,,,K-seal will block your radiator,,,,so put another radiator on to run engine up if you go that route

[Pete]

I stand corrected, apologies.

I have obviously been working on Chubbies too much lately!!!

[Captain Chaos]

Sorry to be negative too. I’d never use K seal or any of the other products that are the same as that in something my customers value or I do. I’ve used it in old crap to keep them going and to be fair had success,but I’ve also had to strip cooling systems out to get rid of the accumulations it leaves behind.

[Powermyster]

Cheers everyone for the input, I was definitely on the fence about the k seal. New freeze plugs ordered express and should be here Tuesday. All going well she should get a Christmas run.

[Dave999]

if the engine has been rad welded, k sealed, and k sealed, and k sealed, you will block stuff up... yes even to the point where it fills the water pump space and crusts around the themostat and rad cap...not good...not the aim. its to block up tiny spaces exposed to the air you don't want it to work like cavity wall insulation.

people never follow the instructions and put in 2 or more bottles and leave it for years. may as well just use mud or sand


if the rad is full of silt then yes you have just added a load more silt ..

decent flowing radiator and a clean block..follow instructions dump it once sealed you should be ok

but given its a core plug issue..... Moot point...... a new one would be best


Dave

[MilesnMiles]

I used K seal In my old Falcon and did follow the instructions. It fixed a leaking heater core in about 3 mins. I flushed it through and everything was fine. Clean fluid, no leaks and no change in engine temp. I researched it a lot and K seal is a different beast to Radweld and similar which can and do bung up motors.
That said, I’ve been shocked at how much silt and rusty crap is inside an apparently good motor when I’ve changed core plugs. Only use brass ones: I had steel ones in a 360 motor rust thru within 3 years of fitting them.

[DaveB]

When you remove exhaust manifold, look closely under the 2 joining exhaust ports, ive had them crack there

[Powermyster]

When you remove exhaust manifold, look closely under the 2 joining exhaust ports, ive had them crack there

I’ll have a look there today.

Core plugs came yesterday but I haven’t had a chance to get out to the car. Are the head core plugs different to the block. Looks like the kit is just for the block.

[DaveB]

block plugs 1 5/8", heads 1 1/4" on sides & 1" at ends