e core coil

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mygasser
Posts: 1030
Joined: Tue Dec 19, 17 10:36 am
Location: faversham, kent

e core coil

Post by mygasser »

will an e core coil work with factory electronic ignition and module? this type of coil https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MSD-Ignition ... 3293834671
cheers, neil.
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Dave999
Posts: 9427
Joined: Thu Feb 24, 05 10:31 am
Location: Twickenham,London, England

Re: e core coil

Post by Dave999 »

I think that will be too much for a standard ignition, the box or the ballast will get very hot.

this is incredibly low Primary Resistance: 0.355 ohms makes me think its for a CDI type igntion or an MSD type

It comes down to the resistance of the primary and the voltage you expect to run it at

standard ignition runs at 8 volts and has a ballast resistor to limit the current that flows through the ignition box and coil primary.


Resistance of ballast + resistance of coil = total resistance of the circuit, and that combined resistance keeps the current flowing below the threshold that would cause the unit to break down.

that red coil will have a much lower primary resistance, therefore the total will be lower and more current will flow for a given voltage.

that coil can handle 8+ amps of current. you ignition box is good for 3-4 amps... i.e quite a mis match.

the best coil for a standard ignition is the standard coil with a properly specified ballast. it will work very well.

the limit to moper ignitions was never the coil and its 8 volt operation, it was lack of facilities for racers and for many years before 1972 the use of POINTS, which drove race car builders to find alternatives.

if you want to go E coil you need to pair it with, for want of a better word, a switching box that can handle the current that coil will suck out of your battery.

so you would need a "No ballast" box that expects all of the limiting resistance in circuit to be the primary resistance of the coil

i.e a box that will work at 12 volts and a primary coil resistance of 0.5 - 1 ohm
and not a coil that has 1.5 to 3 ohm primary resistance (i.e 12 volt coils for points) either

8 volt coils that run with ballasts have low primary resistance as well but that's because they depend on the ballast resistor, with out the ballast they don't play nicely with 12 volts... they tend to boil their oil swell and die.

basically you match the coil to the box.


for example
you can run one of these lot
revinator
FBI igntion
potentially mopar boxes only designed for racing like the chrome or gold. they are not really designed for street use

etc

all 12 volt and all designed to work with no ballast and in general happy with any coil that has a primary resistance of 0.5 - 1.0 ohms

all in the £100 -£300 range
all look nice

or if you like stuff for little cash , that works fine

4 PiN GM HEI module running the standard E core transformer coil off a 70,80s chevy truck. that lot will cost you about £40 and a short wait for it to get here from US this gives you a switch that can handle 6-7 amps and a coil with 0.8 ohm primary resistance. its a little welding pack for notta lotta cash.

it was designed to achieve emissions on 1970s GM cars that were federally mandated to have the first catalytic converters as standard. read as, massively restricted exhaust and huge back pressure i.e achieve a full burn on an engine that was practically stewing in its own exhaust gases.
as such they produce a long high power spark and manage their own dwell based on coil temp/resistance.

if you don't want the ecoil a lucas dlb198 has a primary of 1.2 ohms and works ok in the 1000- 5000 rpm range

basically GM 4- pin and lucas dlb198 is a clone of what is hidden in the massively expensive ignition box of a v12 jag it costs £40 rather than £400,
its all the same motorola chip just in different package


or you go MSD capacitor based ignition in which case box and coil should be matched as coil resistance dictates pulse length , you don't run a ballast and everything i said above goes out of the window as the coil is being hit with massively high voltage pulses (up in the 100s or 1000s of volt range) from capacitor discharge, but for short enough period of time that the current flowing stays within bounds of coil safety.


lot of rubbish talked about ignitions in adverting more power does not mean you go faster, you need just enough. the more electricity you put into running your ignition the harder it is to turn your alternator and the slower you go.

HEI stuff

ebay search
use this to search for 4 PIN

(ac delco,wells,petronix,car quest,napa, niehoff,borg warner,gm,mallory,jegs,moroso) (dm 1906,d1906,acc35361,acc35367,d2000,21040,ech tp45, dr400 ,cbe4,cbe22,10482820,607,555-40600,97857) (module,hei)


use this to search for coil

hei coil (dr-35, e41, dr-182, ic22, 342d, gc400,d525)


this is an original style heat sink for the 4 pin. i just use a bit of aluminium angle, finding these is hard.... AC Delco 10474610


4pin module will do you 6 to 8 years before it goes wrong. Buy 2 branded versions, but don't go mad on the Accel or MSD version.
that is a lot of money for a re branded re boxed AC delco $20 part

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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