No fuel to carb

[RobTwin]

wrapped my fuel pipe over exhaust with heat sleeve, which silver asbestos type cloth

good idea, that might be the easiest way.

Good news is that with the help of an assistant chucking fuel down the carb and lots of cranking, we got the car started and let it run for a few mins, idled fine.
So at least I know the parts are in good order, but still a little worried going forward about the mythical 'vapour lock' issue.
How's best to avoid it in the future? would a strategically placed hole in the gas cap help?

Good job I've got this week booked off work. Not got much done round the house, mind.
Got 2 cars to clean up ready for the Nats so I predict a few more days spent over the next week in the garage.

Good job

I'll come and do the cleaning if you carry on fixing the problems

[Dave999]

don't thinbk you need to drill any holes in fuel cap based on discussion so far, you'd hear the hiss or the base of the tank going BONG when you undid the cap

some of this round the fuel pipe..... i wouldn't put it on the exhaust...although it might be robust enough...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353525791151 ... 24QAvD_BwE


You could also fashion a shield using 2 exhaust clamps an extra set of 4 or 6 nuts and a piece of scrap steel or aluminium plate with 4 holes in it

air flow between it and exhaust will act as a heat break even if the clamps conduct a bit works like those shields they put on scooter and bike exhausts to stop you melting your boots or (based on our local teenagers) your pillions' flip flops and leg.....
plate sits between exhaust and fuel pipe but shouldn't touch either. double or triple nut it and it won't come off

its robust and won't smoke if it gets too hot.


just thinking if you used zinc....sacrificial anode, stop yer exhaust rusting at the same time... or does that just work on boats??? i dunno

tata


Dave

[RobTwin]

Thanks Dave, yes we came to the conclusion that we shouldn't drill the filler cap, mainly cos we already have a vented tank... ok as long as the vent pipes aren't blocked!

We also thought it best to add some insulating wrap / sleeve to the fuel lines and pipe; I've taken delivery today of this:

https://www.oldhallperformance.com/heat ... rod-sleeve

which is ok if we can undo one end of the pipe to be sleeved Preferred this as it's a bit more unobtrusive than some of aluminium foil type options

[Adam]

Did you check the tank vent tubes aren't blocked?

Also the fuel filter? Which is the most likely culprit for vapour lock too.

Sorry if you've covered this - I skim read this thread.

[Stu Twin]

Hi Adam,
The 2 x tank vent tubes are the only things i didn't disconnect & blow through.
The pipes into the tank were all crimped on as opposed to jubilee clips so are a pig to disconnect in situ.
I was considering replacing with new at some point just for peace of mind. Job for the winter probably. Or when I fancy lying under the car with a junior hacksaw again.
Yes i did blow the filter through. Found no blockages anywhere which is good in a way.

Rob an i spent a few hours last night fitting some heat shield sleeving to the hose from pump to carb, and also the 2 hard lines at the rear that run over the exhaust. Hopefully will help.

[Captain Chaos]

Apologies for the thread revival but I think the answer to my question is here I just want a bit of reassurance.

I’m upgrading the fuel system on my Road Runner 440 and was going to buy a new pump rod along with and Edelbrock 1723 pump. I currently have a Carter pump and don’t know what cam I have in the engine beyond it being a Comp Cam. Summit offer various rods but do I need to be careful which one I buy in terms of suitability for the cam? Thanks in advance. Stewart.

[Pete]

Carter pumps are good. Are you sure it is faulty?

You have no say on the pump cam as it is integral to the camshaft....

[Captain Chaos]

Hi Pete. I was running out of fuel,at least that’s what it felt like,at the top end of the track if I was going in excess of 5000 rpm. As soon as I backed off it came back. It was suggested to go larger in pipe diameter and renew the pump and rod. I thought if the rod is worn it looked like an easy thing to check/replace

[Pete]

Measure the pump rod for starters, fuel line is a good idea too.....

[Captain Chaos]

Thanks Pete.

Rod length yes I’ll check that,no pitfalls in choice?

Stating the obvious but larger fuel lines deliver more and hold more I assume,try it then decide whether to upgrade the pump and sender to larger diameter/capacity?

[Stu Twin]

Hi Stew, there's quite a lot of 'chat' on the forums about cheapo fuel pump pushrods.
When we got one for the Dodge a few years back, Hughes Engines were recommended as they're guaranteed to be hardened.
https://www.manciniracing.com/huenhafupupu.html

I get the impression that as with a lot of parts these days quality control is poor / non existent and some can wear prematurely.
Regarding length, mine measured 3.200", some say it should be 3.250".
As you say they're quite easy to change, especially if you're changing the pump anyway. We've got a Holley mech pump:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... /12-440-11.

Though have you considered an electric 'in tank' pump? Supposed to help avoid problems with vapour lock etc. And would eliminate the pushrod.

[Captain Chaos]

Thanks Stu.
I don’t think it warrants an electric pump yet I’m not in that power league yet,but I think given the cost a replacement rod from Mancini is a good idea. Thanks for the link.