69 satellite instrument removal
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69 satellite instrument removal
hello has any one tried to remove the instrument cluster on a 69 satellite or roadrunner any help would be usefull
Re: 69 satellite instrument removal
NO.
but procedure on my A body is thus to give you an idea. did this last weekend to access wiper motor
and heater controls
Disconnect Battery first, and you will be covered in cuts n scratches by the time you are finished
1) take out ash tray, take out radio delete plate
2) take out glove box Gives you a "James Herriott" style of access to quite a few fasteners for 1/2 of the dash
3) use access to undo nuts on the studs on the dash pad, when you know positions for passenger side you can guess where on the drivers side, most likely the last 2 studs are one either side of any gauge binnacle.
3a lie head down on the drivers seat and stick your arm up with a ring spanner or small socket to do the drivers side. (if headlamp switch is right at one end it may need to come out first).
4) take off dash pad there is a stud at both ends at least right in the corner
5) everything becomes apparent from then on because you can see screws in the dash pod and you can see down through the windscreen from outside to the back of the dash if you squint through the gap left between the dashboard shell and the cluster that used to be occupied by the dash pad. stick your work light inside the dash when viewing from outside to help
yous will be different, and potentially very different, but i doubt you will get the cluster out without dismantling most of the rest first
if your dash has trim held on by the collars of switches take them off, knob followed by collar.
However, be aware that any place on that dash trim where a higher specification model would have had a switch will have a plastic threaded stud on the back of the trim, in a re enforced section, where the hole for the switch would have been!!!!! There will be a hole in the dash frame for it. these plastic studs are held to the dash box with a Chrysler flange nut. if you miss one you can easily snap your trim.
heater control the plastic trim bolts on with nuts behind the dash using similar plastic studs as mentioned above
the heater control bolts on with similar nuts behind the dash. i.e there are metal studs behind the dash box which it fits onto
its the last bit to take off as you need good access to do it. bu in most cases it can stay put. don't loose the clips that hold the cables to their mounts. uniquely moper in their execution.
you should now have access to remove gauge cluster
it will be hold in with multiple self tapping screws which should be obvious with all trim off. some may go up from below.
don't forget the speedo cable, it will be just too short to get access, clip or thread connector depending on model a threaded one has a knurl to the nut....you can tell which is which
take photos as soon as you move it forward as the bulbs and wires will start coming off....
remember ammeter leads are FAT and use two spanners to undo so you do not wind the stud out the back of the unit and bust it
if you didn't disconnect battery its at this point you find out why you should......
when you put your dash pad back
clip it on and only do up the middle nuts
less likely to crack on a hot day
when you took it off it relaxed for the first time in 40 years and it won't want to stretch again. it never goes back quite as it was how tight were those nuts?
if you bolt up either end the twisting of the car and expansion of the dash box on a hot day flexes the vinyl and once its 40+ years old it splits
Top Aussie Tip....
A 30*+ day should not be ruined by discovering your £400+ dash pad has a big split in it that wasn't there when you popped into the Spar/mace/ Forbouys/co-op for fags beer milk papers....
Dave
but procedure on my A body is thus to give you an idea. did this last weekend to access wiper motor
and heater controls
Disconnect Battery first, and you will be covered in cuts n scratches by the time you are finished
1) take out ash tray, take out radio delete plate
2) take out glove box Gives you a "James Herriott" style of access to quite a few fasteners for 1/2 of the dash
3) use access to undo nuts on the studs on the dash pad, when you know positions for passenger side you can guess where on the drivers side, most likely the last 2 studs are one either side of any gauge binnacle.
3a lie head down on the drivers seat and stick your arm up with a ring spanner or small socket to do the drivers side. (if headlamp switch is right at one end it may need to come out first).
4) take off dash pad there is a stud at both ends at least right in the corner
5) everything becomes apparent from then on because you can see screws in the dash pod and you can see down through the windscreen from outside to the back of the dash if you squint through the gap left between the dashboard shell and the cluster that used to be occupied by the dash pad. stick your work light inside the dash when viewing from outside to help
yous will be different, and potentially very different, but i doubt you will get the cluster out without dismantling most of the rest first
if your dash has trim held on by the collars of switches take them off, knob followed by collar.
However, be aware that any place on that dash trim where a higher specification model would have had a switch will have a plastic threaded stud on the back of the trim, in a re enforced section, where the hole for the switch would have been!!!!! There will be a hole in the dash frame for it. these plastic studs are held to the dash box with a Chrysler flange nut. if you miss one you can easily snap your trim.
heater control the plastic trim bolts on with nuts behind the dash using similar plastic studs as mentioned above
the heater control bolts on with similar nuts behind the dash. i.e there are metal studs behind the dash box which it fits onto
its the last bit to take off as you need good access to do it. bu in most cases it can stay put. don't loose the clips that hold the cables to their mounts. uniquely moper in their execution.
you should now have access to remove gauge cluster
it will be hold in with multiple self tapping screws which should be obvious with all trim off. some may go up from below.
don't forget the speedo cable, it will be just too short to get access, clip or thread connector depending on model a threaded one has a knurl to the nut....you can tell which is which
take photos as soon as you move it forward as the bulbs and wires will start coming off....
remember ammeter leads are FAT and use two spanners to undo so you do not wind the stud out the back of the unit and bust it
if you didn't disconnect battery its at this point you find out why you should......
when you put your dash pad back
clip it on and only do up the middle nuts
less likely to crack on a hot day
when you took it off it relaxed for the first time in 40 years and it won't want to stretch again. it never goes back quite as it was how tight were those nuts?
if you bolt up either end the twisting of the car and expansion of the dash box on a hot day flexes the vinyl and once its 40+ years old it splits
Top Aussie Tip....
A 30*+ day should not be ruined by discovering your £400+ dash pad has a big split in it that wasn't there when you popped into the Spar/mace/ Forbouys/co-op for fags beer milk papers....
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying