Torque convertor bolts advice.

[MattH]

Sorry, it's GM not Mopar, trying to help a friend.
Does anyone know if Chevy TH400 has nuts and bolts as I can't see any threaded holes on the convertor like a Mopar has?
Also it has been spaced off the flex plate with 4 washers, possibly because the bolts are too long and hit the convertor body.
Is it OK to push the convertor closer to the flex plate and remove the washers?
I'm assuing it will still work if slid further along the trans input shaft towards the engine (its a 350).

[Pete]

Sometimes you have to shim the Convertor to get the right clearances, without loading the Front Pump in the Convertor.

It needs to be mocked up properly..

[MattH]

But generally it would just be nuts and bolts through the flex plate into convertor without spacers?

[Pete]

As a basic rule yes.
However, I had to shim the Convertor on the Challenger, and that was a first for me in 25 + years of Mopar ownership...

The is no substitute for taking your time and doing it properly...

[MattH]

This is a stock Chevy, not top of the shelf Mopar

[Pete]

Use your discretion then.

Make sure the Convertor is engaged sufficiently on the pump.

[Stu Twin]

And depending on where the converter ends up (fore / aft) the starter may also need to be shimmed.
To ensure it engages / disengages enough.
IIRC

[MattH]

This has the tooth ring gear on the flex plate not the converter, very different to Mopar.
I've replaced bolts with correct length ones and removed the 1/2 " of packing washers.
Will see how / if it still works.

[Pete]

Starter needs shimming for the correct clearance on a Chevrolet....