Ignition switch question
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if you can get at the connector block (4 way) for the ignition switch
try a resistance measurenment across it in the crank and drive positions
any combination of pins should be 0 ohms or E infinite ohms nothing inbetweeny.
mine did similar and it was the connector block getting very resistant due to corrosion it got so hot it burnt the insulation on the wires. i ended up cutting the lot out and usuing a screw down connector panel rated for 60 amps (my alternator spits out about 45 on a good day )
dave
try a resistance measurenment across it in the crank and drive positions
any combination of pins should be 0 ohms or E infinite ohms nothing inbetweeny.
mine did similar and it was the connector block getting very resistant due to corrosion it got so hot it burnt the insulation on the wires. i ended up cutting the lot out and usuing a screw down connector panel rated for 60 amps (my alternator spits out about 45 on a good day )
dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Charging problem now sorted thanks to a post I spotted on ALLPAR.
It pointed out that the factory ammeter is a weak point and a very big source of charging problems. A cure that is supposedly carried out by a vast number of pre 72 Mopar owners in the States is to add a wire from the output stud on the alternator direct to the BATT terminal of the starter solenoid ( with a good fuse/fusible link in line ), doing this all but eliminates the in dash ammeter ( you will then need to add a voltmeter, which I was going to do anyway ). Low and behold I now have 14.6 volts at the battery at 1500 ish RPM and my lights work as they should.
All that remains is to sort the wipers as pretty sure the motor is shot due to the spindle being seized.
It pointed out that the factory ammeter is a weak point and a very big source of charging problems. A cure that is supposedly carried out by a vast number of pre 72 Mopar owners in the States is to add a wire from the output stud on the alternator direct to the BATT terminal of the starter solenoid ( with a good fuse/fusible link in line ), doing this all but eliminates the in dash ammeter ( you will then need to add a voltmeter, which I was going to do anyway ). Low and behold I now have 14.6 volts at the battery at 1500 ish RPM and my lights work as they should.
All that remains is to sort the wipers as pretty sure the motor is shot due to the spindle being seized.
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Anonymous
That's all well & good Skippy , but you gotta sort out the problem lurking in the dash/bulkhead/ameter................
Although doing this will take the load off the crappy wireing inside , you've still got a live going to earth somewhere.
As it's on the live side before the fuse box , it is more likely to catch fire , as all you have protecting the bad cableing is the fuseable link.
Although doing this will take the load off the crappy wireing inside , you've still got a live going to earth somewhere.
As it's on the live side before the fuse box , it is more likely to catch fire , as all you have protecting the bad cableing is the fuseable link.
- Dave-R
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Oh you mean that thing myself and many others on here have mentioned a million times?Skippy wrote: A cure that is supposedly carried out by a vast number of pre 72 Mopar owners in the States is to add a wire from the output stud on the alternator direct to the BATT terminal of the starter solenoid ( with a good fuse/fusible link in line ), doing this all but eliminates the in dash ammeter
Also this method is usually mentioned in the same posts.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml
But as Adam says. You must have high resistance somewhere. You still need to find that and make it good. Usually it is the spade in the bulkhead connector. make that good first. THEN by-pass the ammeter to make sure it does not go bad again.
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Sorry Dave, must have missed that one
Forgot to mention, the only other thing I did was to clean the bulkhead connector terminals properly this time, with a small wire brush and lots of electrical connection cleaner, so not sure if this also helped.
Forgot to mention, the only other thing I did was to clean the bulkhead connector terminals properly this time, with a small wire brush and lots of electrical connection cleaner, so not sure if this also helped.
Last edited by Anonymous on Tue Aug 28, 07 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
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Skippy wrote:Assumed, possibly wrongly, that the drop in voltage was due to the crappy factory ammeter not a short in the wiring. Assuming its not the wiring, would disconnecting the ammeter and connecting the wires to and from it work ????
I think it will be more likey than not an increase in resistance somewhere rather than a decrease. But either way I would find out.
Yes you can just join the ammeter wires together. But make sure it is a very good connection!
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Anonymous
Sandy wrote:What Belvedere ?
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Keep up Sandy, allthough it is hard at the rate Dean buy's em
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15111
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