http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sunsho ... list&c=13067 barra' lower ball joint
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If they are the same as mine they will be Oz specific. The US ones are longer.....Got mine from Oz Ebay, about £45 the pair delivered. They come in 2 bolt sizes for disc or drum. Needed the drum ones when I went to Strange discs as they were on drum spindles.....Is your steering box on the K member or frame rail?
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The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
if its a US built car either LHD or right hand drive the ball joints are US ones and they were all subjected to similar change-over times for ball joint size and taper and PDC so getting the right size by year should be ok
a US RHD barracuda will come from the Hamtramck plant and this would mean it would have a US chassis number and vintag which can be decoded as such. i.e US made hamtramck plant date and options
if its a SA car
then the running gear may well be Australian in which case pentastar parts or either of the Bluestar spares companies in Oz will see you right.
but it depends on if its an SA car built from a US kit (CKD kit) or if it was an SA car built with a US/canadian body and aussie driveline. did it have a slant 6??
or hemi performance (he will advertise them as NOS. they are made by a chinese company with the company name NOS they are not New Old Stock)
if you buy from Oz try to get TRW brand
all flog stuff on ebay.com.au and have their own sites as well.
i'd measure the broken one and email all of them
steering box on chassis rail is correct for these cars
its a LHD floor pan on all the RHD valiant based cars with the motor offset to the RHD drivers side of the car
leaves no space for a steering box in the correct position on the K frame
ideal setup to counterbalance the weight of a US driver and i dare say has benefits for tail shaft alignment with the diff. no bloody good for RHD car though.
the chassis rail snaps at the front of the box mounting area due to the bolt holes being re inforced and a zig zag metal insert inside the rail for extra strength, the section forward of them is not reinforced (well aussie ones are like this). Just causes an obstruction to water flow out of the rail and concentrates stress at the changeover point from reinforced bit back to bendy box section chassis rail.
works well for approx 5 years then rusts out or snaps. full repair sleave panel is cheap its a sleave and as a consequence is not as thick as a section of chassis rail, its not designed to replace that section, just cover it up and be plug welded and seam welded on
work is hard to put it in if you can't just patch it. engine out suspension off time, to get decent access.
Dave
a US RHD barracuda will come from the Hamtramck plant and this would mean it would have a US chassis number and vintag which can be decoded as such. i.e US made hamtramck plant date and options
if its a SA car
then the running gear may well be Australian in which case pentastar parts or either of the Bluestar spares companies in Oz will see you right.
but it depends on if its an SA car built from a US kit (CKD kit) or if it was an SA car built with a US/canadian body and aussie driveline. did it have a slant 6??
or hemi performance (he will advertise them as NOS. they are made by a chinese company with the company name NOS they are not New Old Stock)
if you buy from Oz try to get TRW brand
all flog stuff on ebay.com.au and have their own sites as well.
i'd measure the broken one and email all of them
steering box on chassis rail is correct for these cars
its a LHD floor pan on all the RHD valiant based cars with the motor offset to the RHD drivers side of the car
leaves no space for a steering box in the correct position on the K frame
ideal setup to counterbalance the weight of a US driver and i dare say has benefits for tail shaft alignment with the diff. no bloody good for RHD car though.
the chassis rail snaps at the front of the box mounting area due to the bolt holes being re inforced and a zig zag metal insert inside the rail for extra strength, the section forward of them is not reinforced (well aussie ones are like this). Just causes an obstruction to water flow out of the rail and concentrates stress at the changeover point from reinforced bit back to bendy box section chassis rail.
works well for approx 5 years then rusts out or snaps. full repair sleave panel is cheap its a sleave and as a consequence is not as thick as a section of chassis rail, its not designed to replace that section, just cover it up and be plug welded and seam welded on
work is hard to put it in if you can't just patch it. engine out suspension off time, to get decent access.
Dave
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