Dave999's Aussie Charger
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Dave i like the idea of a solid lifter after the fun ive had. just have to make sure i don't end up having to get the head machined to take the springs.
you easily fall into too much diameter of the valve guide boss for the double springs or too high installed height and the rocker hits the retainer
but it is a nice plan and not discounted at all.
Ivor all been thought about....need a megasquirt ECU and man versed in alloy and stainless welding..... injector bungs and a fuel rail and ya half way there to an easy install
i could use an eaton M112 bolted to a 4bbl intake with fuel injection
4 litre mustang or a jag one would do...they fit on quite easily (input from trevD in regards to adaptor i guess) have a range of snouts and a belt tensioner is easy ( modern car pulley bolted to small end of standard 318 con rod and the big end clamped round the snout of the eaton does the trick very well tension it with an alternator bracket) but you do end up with a dingus contraption to route into the back of the thing from a throttle body and things like wiper motor plenum and other big bits of car get in the way...... plenum gets cut and the throttle body filter sits under the grill below the screen....hehe
pity they are a dry system only bunging fuel through them makes the rotors peel. i.e duponts finest nonstick comes off and you wash Mr Eatons own pure essence out of the rotor bearings in a couple of hundred miles (the special oil is a bit expense)
work ok with LPG mind. some lpg carbs don't mind being sideways use the vaporisor as your source of cold in lieu of a proper intercooler and life can be very very good.... block twisting crank snapping good.
its all too hard..... need to learn to keep a tidy workshop first....... that's all phase 2 or 3 i'll get round to it in my 50s
Dave
you easily fall into too much diameter of the valve guide boss for the double springs or too high installed height and the rocker hits the retainer
but it is a nice plan and not discounted at all.
Ivor all been thought about....need a megasquirt ECU and man versed in alloy and stainless welding..... injector bungs and a fuel rail and ya half way there to an easy install
i could use an eaton M112 bolted to a 4bbl intake with fuel injection
4 litre mustang or a jag one would do...they fit on quite easily (input from trevD in regards to adaptor i guess) have a range of snouts and a belt tensioner is easy ( modern car pulley bolted to small end of standard 318 con rod and the big end clamped round the snout of the eaton does the trick very well tension it with an alternator bracket) but you do end up with a dingus contraption to route into the back of the thing from a throttle body and things like wiper motor plenum and other big bits of car get in the way...... plenum gets cut and the throttle body filter sits under the grill below the screen....hehe
pity they are a dry system only bunging fuel through them makes the rotors peel. i.e duponts finest nonstick comes off and you wash Mr Eatons own pure essence out of the rotor bearings in a couple of hundred miles (the special oil is a bit expense)
work ok with LPG mind. some lpg carbs don't mind being sideways use the vaporisor as your source of cold in lieu of a proper intercooler and life can be very very good.... block twisting crank snapping good.
its all too hard..... need to learn to keep a tidy workshop first....... that's all phase 2 or 3 i'll get round to it in my 50s
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
well it would appear that i have done nothing since 2009....
quick update
1) engine block is now bored honed decked cleaned on stand, bored and honed by Dermott at Power4peanuts main line and caps sorted out by Bacca
2) crank is ground and the correct size
3) head is currently being skimmed having thread area for temp sensor re-tapped
4) rods re-sized and the small ends bored for jeep pistons
5) jeep pistons stand above deck by 50 thou yikes..have custom 40 thou MLS gasket and the pistons and combustion chambers are getting profiled so they don't collide and provide a quench area... set up will be similar to some 340s in as much as a flat top piston sits above deck
6) New oil pump
7) bashed the sump back into shape just needs baffle welding
8) got a set of headers
9) got air fuel wide band lambda
10) got custom steel flywheel with 10 inch clutch and single diaphragm cover, other option was twin plate but far too heavy and overkill
11) inlet manifold checked for fit on head. small attention from the file both otherwise OK
12) inlet manifold stud kit fitted
13) ARP Main studs purchased
14) ARP wave lock rod bolts fitted before re-size
15) ARP head studs fitted
16) ARP flywheel bolts purchased
17) Carbs fitted to manifold and standard 6 cylinder linkage fitted
18) ferrea 6000 valves now have multi fit retainers off set 10 thou with crane cams collets allowing any retainer that could fit chrylser valve to be used on any valve stem size provided the locks are correct
need to get seals
induction
standard 6 cylinder linkage was poor quality, the arms on it twisted round the cross bar under spring tension
R U B B I SH
AND it was impossible to get the carbs in sync
this problem traced to the centre carb studs not being aligned.
Right hand end of centre DCOE was 3 mm higher than the left end
left end aligns well with left hand carb and both ends of RH carb
so all carbs converted to left hand actuation- more money on bits i shouldn't need
original linkage junked
weeks of research on carb linkages
long email conversation with a certain Mr Ingless who does weber installs for chevys and fords AC cobras in the states...very nice man
confirmed i was on the right track
spent my lunch money on bits from VW places SCAT and CB performance
ended up with a Bananarama! cross bar linkage off a VW1500
rose joint on out runners
hex bar drilled and tapped 2 inches into each end
long bolt and locking nuts used to keep in place
CB performance arms and throttle pull grub screwed on
CB performance left hand a right hand rose joints and lock nuts attached
drop links were too long so invested in brass bar and some left and right handed dies
now have brass drop links with left hand thread on one end and a right had thread on the other....
need a hand knurl machine to Knurl a grip on the unthreaded section but otherwise can now twist 1 way for longer and 1 way for shorter.
result is the poor quality picture below
last night i decided that really breaking in a new engine should be done with a "know quantity" of both induction and ignition
so set about the car with my favorite set of happy shopper ring spanners
and in a week or two will have removed at a rate of one nut and tringual washer per evening the inlet...
i'll fit the webers and see if i can get me working before i need to press them into service on the new motor
I'll take some more pics when the garage is tidy and its light
Dave
quick update
1) engine block is now bored honed decked cleaned on stand, bored and honed by Dermott at Power4peanuts main line and caps sorted out by Bacca
2) crank is ground and the correct size
3) head is currently being skimmed having thread area for temp sensor re-tapped
4) rods re-sized and the small ends bored for jeep pistons
5) jeep pistons stand above deck by 50 thou yikes..have custom 40 thou MLS gasket and the pistons and combustion chambers are getting profiled so they don't collide and provide a quench area... set up will be similar to some 340s in as much as a flat top piston sits above deck
6) New oil pump
7) bashed the sump back into shape just needs baffle welding
8) got a set of headers
9) got air fuel wide band lambda
10) got custom steel flywheel with 10 inch clutch and single diaphragm cover, other option was twin plate but far too heavy and overkill
11) inlet manifold checked for fit on head. small attention from the file both otherwise OK
12) inlet manifold stud kit fitted
13) ARP Main studs purchased
14) ARP wave lock rod bolts fitted before re-size
15) ARP head studs fitted
16) ARP flywheel bolts purchased
17) Carbs fitted to manifold and standard 6 cylinder linkage fitted
18) ferrea 6000 valves now have multi fit retainers off set 10 thou with crane cams collets allowing any retainer that could fit chrylser valve to be used on any valve stem size provided the locks are correct
need to get seals
induction
standard 6 cylinder linkage was poor quality, the arms on it twisted round the cross bar under spring tension
R U B B I SH
AND it was impossible to get the carbs in sync
this problem traced to the centre carb studs not being aligned.
Right hand end of centre DCOE was 3 mm higher than the left end
left end aligns well with left hand carb and both ends of RH carb
so all carbs converted to left hand actuation- more money on bits i shouldn't need
original linkage junked
weeks of research on carb linkages
long email conversation with a certain Mr Ingless who does weber installs for chevys and fords AC cobras in the states...very nice man
confirmed i was on the right track
spent my lunch money on bits from VW places SCAT and CB performance
ended up with a Bananarama! cross bar linkage off a VW1500
rose joint on out runners
hex bar drilled and tapped 2 inches into each end
long bolt and locking nuts used to keep in place
CB performance arms and throttle pull grub screwed on
CB performance left hand a right hand rose joints and lock nuts attached
drop links were too long so invested in brass bar and some left and right handed dies
now have brass drop links with left hand thread on one end and a right had thread on the other....
need a hand knurl machine to Knurl a grip on the unthreaded section but otherwise can now twist 1 way for longer and 1 way for shorter.
result is the poor quality picture below
last night i decided that really breaking in a new engine should be done with a "know quantity" of both induction and ignition
so set about the car with my favorite set of happy shopper ring spanners
and in a week or two will have removed at a rate of one nut and tringual washer per evening the inlet...
i'll fit the webers and see if i can get me working before i need to press them into service on the new motor
I'll take some more pics when the garage is tidy and its light
Dave
- Attachments
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- IMG00272-20120226-1747 (Large).jpg (62.02 KiB) Viewed 2239 times
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
yeah hardly subtle...but robust
function over form
ideally levers would be lower but shorter drop links exacerbate the off plane angle of the brass rod in relation to the lever on the carb producing a kind of variable action on the peddle travel front per % open for throttle
ideally like to keep it linear otherwise throttle action would be tres odd
options for hacking bits off later and re threading if necessary.....
need to set up suitable throttle cable clamp as well
original mounted on 2 cylinder head studs
mine never had webers so i have all bolts....
need to bodge something up on the rocker cover until new engine with studs takes over....
function over form
ideally levers would be lower but shorter drop links exacerbate the off plane angle of the brass rod in relation to the lever on the carb producing a kind of variable action on the peddle travel front per % open for throttle
ideally like to keep it linear otherwise throttle action would be tres odd
options for hacking bits off later and re threading if necessary.....
need to set up suitable throttle cable clamp as well
original mounted on 2 cylinder head studs
mine never had webers so i have all bolts....
need to bodge something up on the rocker cover until new engine with studs takes over....
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24751
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Most carb systems have a non linear opening rate when you think about it. The primary blades open 50% before the secondary side and the secondaries open all the way with the last 50% of movement.
Of course they share a common plenum which is different but I don't see a problem with a non-linear opening as such if it made things neater or if it was needed for clearance.
Of course they share a common plenum which is different but I don't see a problem with a non-linear opening as such if it made things neater or if it was needed for clearance.
no neither would I
but a weber with a strange none liner opening might be good...but might not...
most OEM setups are carefull to make sure actuating lever on linkage and on carb are the same length
that the only bit i couldn't achieve if i wanted the full peddle travel
hence all attempts to keep the action of the linkage arm directly parrallel to the carb lever motion at the mid point resulted in the arms sticking up in a odd way
a right old fiddle
might set it up so its starts out parrelell and gets worse as we go on as most driving is done at a smidge of throttle.
Dave
but a weber with a strange none liner opening might be good...but might not...
most OEM setups are carefull to make sure actuating lever on linkage and on carb are the same length
that the only bit i couldn't achieve if i wanted the full peddle travel
hence all attempts to keep the action of the linkage arm directly parrallel to the carb lever motion at the mid point resulted in the arms sticking up in a odd way
a right old fiddle
might set it up so its starts out parrelell and gets worse as we go on as most driving is done at a smidge of throttle.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
I had a twin cable set up like this when I had twin 40's on my Anglia a million years ago. Worked really well and never went out of sync.
http://www.motorsport-tools.com/pro-his ... 68468.html
http://www.motorsport-tools.com/pro-his ... 68468.html