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Steve
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Post by Steve »

Great work as always Blue....cheers Steve :thumbright:
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Knocked up a new throttle pedal from some lightweight tube, as the motor is solid mounted, a rose jointed rod will replace the cable. There will be an adjustable pedal stop on the floor to prevent overstessing anything.
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Post by comeonsasha »

wish i was handy..i cant even weld :lol:
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autofetish
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Post by autofetish »

Rose joint linkage 8-)


Lovely work as always
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

In case you thought I'd been slacking, throttle pedal and linkage all done. Just need to figure out the best way to do the pedal stop and it's done. Been working on the brake and clutch linkages too, rose joints are flavour of the week....
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latil
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Post by latil »

Might pay to be a bit more direct with the throttle linkage :lol: Loving your work :thumbright:
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Steve
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Post by Steve »

Very interesting Blue, I have never even considered a solid connection to the carb (no cable).....what is the benefit of this and excuse my ignorance but how exactly do you fine adjust it??? If its direct to the carb, Im thinking that as long as everything is cut and fitted as accurately as you have, then it wont need any adjustment, just a new rod if you ever change the carb...:read2:

Sorry if Ive missed it but with that set up, I assume you use solid engine mounts with no engine 'flex'. My ploptop computer is taking ages to load the pages (it is second hand and 15 years or so old :oops: :oops:) so cant back track your thread to check for myself...

Great work as always...

Cheers Steve :thumbright:
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Yes Steve, solid mounted. it's the neatest, most direct, bombproof and lightest both in weight and action. You screw the rod ends in or out to fine tune the length and that's it set for good. Actually Mopars are in the minority when it comes to throttle cables, most other US cars of the era use a multi piece rod system.
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Steve
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Post by Steve »

thanks for the info Blue

xheers Steve :thumbright:
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ANTON
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Post by ANTON »

Hey blue
Why not thread the outside of the tube on the engine side of the throttle rod and then use a nut to stop against the fire wall as your pedal stop. Light and simple.
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Pedal stop needs to be under the pedal pad Anton, otherwise you are putting strain on the rest of the linkage. Stopping it right at the bottom of the pedal means the only resistance the linkage sees is the return springs on the carb, so I dosn't matter how hard you stand on it, it can't move any further.
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Don
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Post by Don »

Sounds to me like your heading towards super stock Blue :lol:
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db
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Post by db »

Lovely stuff Blue.
If only I had the time I'd be pinching all your ideas... ;)
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Post by Les Szabo »

Don wrote:Sounds to me like your heading towards super stock Blue :lol:
Yes thats gonna be an easy 10 sec car with the stroker, bracket racing is not gonna be easy with a stick up against auto cars but I'm sure Blue will take a few oponents out, be interesting to see, not many stick cars out there if any.
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Don
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Post by Don »

Les Szabo wrote:
Don wrote:Sounds to me like your heading towards super stock Blue :lol:
Yes thats gonna be an easy 10 sec car with the stroker, bracket racing is not gonna be easy with a stick up against auto cars but I'm sure Blue will take a few oponents out, be interesting to see, not many stick cars out there if any.
yeah be good to see it out on the strip, but why not bracket, as long as the shifts are consistent it shouldn't be a problem though obviously not as easy as auto ....... but therein lies the challenge !!
......9 SECOND SUPERBIRD .......
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