db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

db · Post by db » Mon Jan 18, 16 10:54 am

A word of warning for anyone with a stack of plates under their carb like I have - meaning 5 gaskets in all - RE-TIGHTEN YOUR CARB NUTS! I just checked mine a few days after fitting it all to find the nuts loose. I've not started it yet so the gaskets must have compressed.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Jan 18, 16 11:02 am

helluva plenum set up there Paul. How come?

db · Post by db » Tue Jan 19, 16 10:06 am

It has turned out a bit complex Miles!
The inlet manifold is an M1, with the Spreadbore-type opening, so I made a conversion plate to normal Holley pattern (see earlier post).
Les Szabo recommended at least a 2" riser to improve low-end power, I fitted a phenolic riser to help with carb heat insulation.
Now with the nitrous plate and my home-made 1/2" thick solenoid plate and a 1" riser, it all adds up to the same.

db · Post by db » Sun Feb 14, 16 6:26 pm

Full throttle switch is on, I slotted the plate so I can adjust it.

db · Post by db » Thu Mar 31, 16 10:20 pm

Well the sun was shining, the roads are clean-ish, time for the first hoon of the year

I've been picking up useful bits recently, I now have an auto ignition retard unit and a progressive controller for my nitrous setup. I've not attempted to wire it all up yet

db · Post by db » Thu Mar 31, 16 10:31 pm

The controller came from the Essex swap meet, along with a mini heater for a tenner

I got a bit carried away and the task of cleaning it up and testing it turned into a full recon and paint job... I pressure tested the matrix (airline and rubber bung in a bucket of water- overdid the air, blew out the bung, caught it in the face along with a lot of the water and swelled the ends of the matrix. Such fun!)
It'll sit nicely up under the dash and shouldn't be too hard to remove for racing weight reduction if I feel the need

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Mar 31, 16 10:36 pm

We did not have a lot of success with the time based controller. All in on the line gave the best results - 1.39 60 foot time as a best and regular 1.40 - 1.42.

However, not sure how it will work with a 4 speed as you are on and off the gas for shifts so the Nitrous WOT switch will be on and off.

Do you intend only using NOS at the top end or off the line?

db · Post by db » Thu Mar 31, 16 11:18 pm

I haven't a clue Pete!
I was sort of thinking that if I start at say 20% and 3 seconds, by the time I shift out of 1st it'll only be up to maybe 40%, 2nd maybe 60%, etc.
If I do use it at the nats it won't be til Sunday so I'll get at least one days racing in before I blow the ar5e out of the motor

I'd never planned on a progressive but this as £25 at the swap meet so I had to grab it!

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Fri Apr 01, 16 9:40 am

Just a thought....You may not be able to use the timer between gears unless you do wide open throttle shifts, if you come off the throttle the timer will reset/lose power as the nitrous disarms

I guess you have already thought of that and got a plan.....

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Apr 01, 16 10:42 am

You could wire the timer independently but I think it would sit on the shelf if it were mine............

db · Post by db » Fri Apr 01, 16 11:42 pm

Guy wrote:Just a thought....You may not be able to use the timer between gears unless you do wide open throttle shifts, if you come off the throttle the timer will reset/lose power as the nitrous disarms

I guess you have already thought of that and got a plan.....

Well, I wouldn't call it a plan... but yeah, on a wot switch, timer resets on each shift, car spends longer in each gear as you shift up allowing each successive gear a bigger hit. That's my theory anyways

db · Post by db » Sun Apr 17, 16 8:18 pm

Right. I'm selling the controller, partly due to it overcomplicating things I barely understand anyway, partly because I have a sudden need of cash for other things!

So, aside from the retard unit (awaiting a wiring adaptor from Year One) the nitrous is plumbed, wired up and ready to rock n roll

I've also installed the heater unit. It's not wired or piped yet, but I do feel very smug about how it appears under the dash

You can just see the heater is in pic 3, the original Mini lever is poking through the new panel I've made along with all the extra switches and stuff I've had to add for the fuel pump, N2O, etc. When I'm feeling brave I might signwrite... Steady hand needed!
I also made a matching panel for my AFR and a pair of vintage Stewart Warner gauges.
I finished both panels in crackle satin black, to match(-ish) the glovebox lid.

db · Post by db » Wed Jun 22, 16 12:46 pm

I've been very busy with other things lately but I've finally connected up my heater which demists the screen very well

I eventually figured out how to wire my retard unit, that's now finished. The car runs with it wired in but I've yet to check it actually retards the ignition.
So aside from the actual gas, N2O is good to go!

While I was in a wiring kinda mood, I also wired in my Linelok to a button on the shifter.

db · Post by db » Sun Jul 10, 16 2:30 pm

Well it ran great, for a while, then packed I as you'll know if you saw my other thread

My new MSD Streetfire 5520 CDI arrived this morning (ordered yesterday from Amazon £155 delivered!)
Not fitted yet as I'm getting my Nats prep done- oil & filter (Joe Gibbs high zinc stuff, £80 for 10 litres

)
Adjusted valve lash.
Currently trying to prime my oil pump and it doesn't seem to be getting oil up top. I'm spinning it (clockwise) with a drill and turning the motor 1/4 turn every few seconds. I've found my leak at least, the new take-off for my oil pressure gauge. Proceedings halted now til I get that sorted.
Meanwhile, any thoughts on why oil isn't reaching the valvetrain?

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Sun Jul 10, 16 2:41 pm

You should be spinning the oil pump using the drill in reverse, same direction as the distributor.

Mopar Muscle Association UK

db's 66 Belvedere FOR SALE