Mine is leaking like a sieve, through the input and output seals, so a new one is required :'(
Could anyone point me in the right direction please !?
Can they be rebuilt ?
power steering box for 73 Roadrunner
Moderator: Moderators
yes they can be rebuilt
and the seals can be had in either kit form from the US or you could probably visit a bearing supplier in the UK and get something equivalent
ok so its for your 73
get the 1973 mopar parts book from here. you may as well get 1972 and 1974 as well to cross ref the part numbers to see if that opens up a wider range. if the first numbers stay the same between years but the rest change they are totally different parts. if the whole number changes from say 2nnnnnnnnn to 3nnnnnnnnn then there is a chance that the part is the same and they jut improved it especially if all the surrounding parts stayed the same.
i.e if the sector shaft and case stayed the same but the seal number went from 2nnnnnnnn to 3nnnnnnnn between 72 and 74 chances are its just an improved design of the much the same seal
however if the part in 72 was 2nnnnn652 and in 73 was 2nnnnnn458 then the 73 part is not the same as the 72 part and the fact they both begin with a 2 indicates they were first used in think in the 1960s
anyway enough on parts numbers
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=107
check page 496
get the nn-nn-nn number
and look the part up in the following lists for your car
19-14 -18
19-19-35
19-19-38 or look like refrences you need use that diagram reference to find the part number in the lists below (make sure you use the power steering list not the standard (manual) steering list
or just buy a kit
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=wo ... g&_sacat=0
or
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=se ... 3&_sacat=0
you are on a boarder line year so we need the parts book to ID your box
once you have the right box and you know what you need
Chrysler used "National" and "Chicago Rawhide" as seal suppliers
the Chrysler numbers for the parts from the parts book will translate to one of those two companies products. you will need to search the net for the Chrysler part and note down the equivalent numbers you find off ebay and mopar sites
then its ebay or local supplier
the sector shaft seal can be dug out and replaced with the box assembled if you are willing to be a bit violent with the screw drivers and pick out in a piecemeal way the old seal. tape up the spline when you put on the new seal.
the worm shaft seal can only be replaced by taking off the "head set" of the box
you knock round the castle nut anti clockwise
spin out the end of the box
replace the wormshaft seal
put in a new O ring seal for the end of the box
tape up the spline on the input shaft and put the box "head set" back in and do it up tight (not massively tight but tight enough to press the worm shaft into its caged ball bearings)
top up the system and run the engine to check all is well.
if you take the box off the car you are better off leaving the pipes and manifold on the steering box and disconnecting at the pump.
if you take off the manifold for the pipes on the steering box you will then have to go through the rigmarole of aligning it again
if it is out of a alignment the box will just wind its way violently to either left lock or right lock all of the time.
under that manifold is a small pin that directs the fluid to one side or the other side of the piston in the box. if the manifold is mis-aligned it doesn't sense centre when the steering is central and pushes too much fluid to one side or the other.
if in doubt and you can't face the hassle, firmfeel inc or steer and gear in the US can supply a rebuilt to better than new box
but it costs a bit
keep in mind that although they look complicated most of those parts come out in 3 big lumps which you can clean and check in an assembled state
Dave
and the seals can be had in either kit form from the US or you could probably visit a bearing supplier in the UK and get something equivalent
ok so its for your 73
get the 1973 mopar parts book from here. you may as well get 1972 and 1974 as well to cross ref the part numbers to see if that opens up a wider range. if the first numbers stay the same between years but the rest change they are totally different parts. if the whole number changes from say 2nnnnnnnnn to 3nnnnnnnnn then there is a chance that the part is the same and they jut improved it especially if all the surrounding parts stayed the same.
i.e if the sector shaft and case stayed the same but the seal number went from 2nnnnnnnn to 3nnnnnnnn between 72 and 74 chances are its just an improved design of the much the same seal
however if the part in 72 was 2nnnnn652 and in 73 was 2nnnnnn458 then the 73 part is not the same as the 72 part and the fact they both begin with a 2 indicates they were first used in think in the 1960s
anyway enough on parts numbers
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=107
check page 496
get the nn-nn-nn number
and look the part up in the following lists for your car
19-14 -18
19-19-35
19-19-38 or look like refrences you need use that diagram reference to find the part number in the lists below (make sure you use the power steering list not the standard (manual) steering list
or just buy a kit
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=wo ... g&_sacat=0
or
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=se ... 3&_sacat=0
you are on a boarder line year so we need the parts book to ID your box
once you have the right box and you know what you need
Chrysler used "National" and "Chicago Rawhide" as seal suppliers
the Chrysler numbers for the parts from the parts book will translate to one of those two companies products. you will need to search the net for the Chrysler part and note down the equivalent numbers you find off ebay and mopar sites
then its ebay or local supplier
the sector shaft seal can be dug out and replaced with the box assembled if you are willing to be a bit violent with the screw drivers and pick out in a piecemeal way the old seal. tape up the spline when you put on the new seal.
the worm shaft seal can only be replaced by taking off the "head set" of the box
you knock round the castle nut anti clockwise
spin out the end of the box
replace the wormshaft seal
put in a new O ring seal for the end of the box
tape up the spline on the input shaft and put the box "head set" back in and do it up tight (not massively tight but tight enough to press the worm shaft into its caged ball bearings)
top up the system and run the engine to check all is well.
if you take the box off the car you are better off leaving the pipes and manifold on the steering box and disconnecting at the pump.
if you take off the manifold for the pipes on the steering box you will then have to go through the rigmarole of aligning it again
if it is out of a alignment the box will just wind its way violently to either left lock or right lock all of the time.
under that manifold is a small pin that directs the fluid to one side or the other side of the piston in the box. if the manifold is mis-aligned it doesn't sense centre when the steering is central and pushes too much fluid to one side or the other.
if in doubt and you can't face the hassle, firmfeel inc or steer and gear in the US can supply a rebuilt to better than new box
but it costs a bit
keep in mind that although they look complicated most of those parts come out in 3 big lumps which you can clean and check in an assembled state
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying