Hot starting problem.
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Hot starting problem.
The old Road Runner's a '69, with a 440 in it. Has mopar electronic ign. with stock dist., msd coil, orange ecu, 2 pole ballast resistor. Wiring all looks good and starts alright from cold but won't start hot, no spark. Ideas please!!!
Msd coil?
I thought all msd coils were 12v?
If your still running Mopar ecu and ballast resistor you won't be running 12.
Not sure if that's would be your issue........are you vaporising the fuel when hot?
Can be an issue on some cars.....listen for gurgling bubbling sound from the carb.
I thought all msd coils were 12v?
If your still running Mopar ecu and ballast resistor you won't be running 12.
Not sure if that's would be your issue........are you vaporising the fuel when hot?
Can be an issue on some cars.....listen for gurgling bubbling sound from the carb.
Dave Tildesley.....MMA-081
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
Thanks Guys, Yes, it is a 12v system!. Definitely isn't vapour locking and is an electrical fault. Does run, if I hotwire it from the starter to + on the coil. Ballast resistor checks out ok with meter (and has 6v at coil after, which is ok) when it's cold but not when at op. temp. Got me stumped, so far... Will have another play with it today.
sounds like a connection problem, sounds like more resistance in circuit the hotter it gets
when cold in run position on the key you should have 9 volts at the coil.
start at the connection for the ignition switch. break and make the connection
do the same with the connectors at the fuse box and even the fuses in their clips
break and make connection at the bulkhead connector
clean with small wire brush in dremmel and slap with Vaseline when done
work forward to the ballast and your connector for the electronic ignition
see how it goes.
something is eating more and more voltage as the car and wires warm up
Dave
when cold in run position on the key you should have 9 volts at the coil.
start at the connection for the ignition switch. break and make the connection
do the same with the connectors at the fuse box and even the fuses in their clips
break and make connection at the bulkhead connector
clean with small wire brush in dremmel and slap with Vaseline when done
work forward to the ballast and your connector for the electronic ignition
see how it goes.
something is eating more and more voltage as the car and wires warm up
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Thanks ever so much for that, Dave. Have looked on all the mopar sites I can find. While lots have had this trouble, nobody has put their finger on it through the years. It's quite common as far as I can make out, though. Will tear into it again this afternoon and let you know, if we finally fix it!.
its common on cars that lived some of their life near the beach
or in an area that is baking hot during the day but gets cold and condensation forms overnight.
or just plain damp and miserable like to UK.
exposed brass/alloy pushfit connectors that were lacquered or waxed originally, corrode where the lacquer wore off the first time they were connected
you may well have a creeping green/white furriness on your connectors which makes them get hot more resistant and then start melting or making brittle the wire insulation.
clean re connect and smear with electrical contact grease or Vaseline
the fuse box is a pig
you get bad contact at the connector for incoming power. the connector that takes that power from the other end of the fuse to the car,
and the multi-coloured or glass cylinder fuse clips also rust/corrode at the ware pattern on the face that clamps the fuse, and once that starts it creeps into the contact area causing the bright end of the fuse to tarnish as well.
my fuse box was losing 1-2 volts at every fuse. and my bulkhead connector lost lights and wipers when I went over hump back bridges
connectivity was really poor
but my car lived country NSW (HOT)
spent years partially dismantled in a shed HOT
beachside Sydney (hot cold and salty)
lived in a container for 2 months (humid hot cold wet dry salty)
and then the UK
nothing worked. so at the point where my ignition switch wire loom went on fire. i.e the time when most strip out the full loom and spend months trying to get a new one in I cleaned up or snipped off and soldered on new connectors and used that as an opportunity to sleeve anything suspect.
splodge with vaseline
was about a week of 1/2 hour here and there work.
15 years in and I have recently started to have headlight and wiper problems but for a car that was designed to last 4-5 years maximum.... i'm pretty happy.
Dave
or in an area that is baking hot during the day but gets cold and condensation forms overnight.
or just plain damp and miserable like to UK.
exposed brass/alloy pushfit connectors that were lacquered or waxed originally, corrode where the lacquer wore off the first time they were connected
you may well have a creeping green/white furriness on your connectors which makes them get hot more resistant and then start melting or making brittle the wire insulation.
clean re connect and smear with electrical contact grease or Vaseline
the fuse box is a pig
you get bad contact at the connector for incoming power. the connector that takes that power from the other end of the fuse to the car,
and the multi-coloured or glass cylinder fuse clips also rust/corrode at the ware pattern on the face that clamps the fuse, and once that starts it creeps into the contact area causing the bright end of the fuse to tarnish as well.
my fuse box was losing 1-2 volts at every fuse. and my bulkhead connector lost lights and wipers when I went over hump back bridges
connectivity was really poor
but my car lived country NSW (HOT)
spent years partially dismantled in a shed HOT
beachside Sydney (hot cold and salty)
lived in a container for 2 months (humid hot cold wet dry salty)
and then the UK
nothing worked. so at the point where my ignition switch wire loom went on fire. i.e the time when most strip out the full loom and spend months trying to get a new one in I cleaned up or snipped off and soldered on new connectors and used that as an opportunity to sleeve anything suspect.
splodge with vaseline
was about a week of 1/2 hour here and there work.
15 years in and I have recently started to have headlight and wiper problems but for a car that was designed to last 4-5 years maximum.... i'm pretty happy.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Hi Dave,
Sounds like you went through the wringer with yours!!! An Aussie Chrysler, I presume?.
Well, I think we've sussed it. Run it up from cold and warmed it and it now starts warm!.
I've got an msd blaster coil with the stock ballast resistor. Put an ohmmeter across the stocker and got 0.2. On the box the coil came in, it said it needed msd's own 0.8 ohm ballast to work correctly. I don't know why my coil didn't come with one... I've also, now got 9v at the coil, whereas it had a job to make 6 before.
So, went over Frosts and luckily for me, they'd got an msd one in stock!. Fitted it, got it warm and no probs.!!! The wiring's not that bad (so far, so good!), considering a fair bit of it is still original. It's an old super stock race car, so the engine is bolted to the mounts without conventional metalastik mounts. Even so, I'll bung an earth on it...
I'll tidy all the wiring up, we've had out, in the morning and check it out again. Once again, thanks for all the info.
Cheers, John
Sounds like you went through the wringer with yours!!! An Aussie Chrysler, I presume?.
Well, I think we've sussed it. Run it up from cold and warmed it and it now starts warm!.
I've got an msd blaster coil with the stock ballast resistor. Put an ohmmeter across the stocker and got 0.2. On the box the coil came in, it said it needed msd's own 0.8 ohm ballast to work correctly. I don't know why my coil didn't come with one... I've also, now got 9v at the coil, whereas it had a job to make 6 before.
So, went over Frosts and luckily for me, they'd got an msd one in stock!. Fitted it, got it warm and no probs.!!! The wiring's not that bad (so far, so good!), considering a fair bit of it is still original. It's an old super stock race car, so the engine is bolted to the mounts without conventional metalastik mounts. Even so, I'll bung an earth on it...
I'll tidy all the wiring up, we've had out, in the morning and check it out again. Once again, thanks for all the info.
Cheers, John
Ahh yes I live in a dry climate,yes corrosion is assumed not a problem here but I have disassembled tons of worn out blue connectors,to know we still have it here to,just not as bad, however, every part that is made of rubber or plastic will eventually crack and break away and as it heats up it sill cause more problems,so as Blue says gotta start from the bulkhead and bit by bit check every wire, not to bad there are not to many wires that can cause your problem, good luck I am sure you will find itJD426 wrote:PS The car was an Az. car from new and only came here in '12, so it's been in a dry climate for most of it's life. Being a race car from car day one, it's also heater and radio delete, so there is lots of room to mess about under the dash!.