I am after a heavy duty puller / separator which will work on all the ball joints fitted on these cars i.e. strong and fits easy on the part without damaging the dust boots.
Over the years I have used many types including the fork type etc., etc, but always a struggle!
Maybe the hydraulic type wound be best?
Thank you.
Ball joint / tie rod puller / separator ideas
Moderator: Moderators
I can never get the two hammer approach to work, seen it many times on TV and you tube, but it never works.
Going to have another try later this week while replacing all the ball joints on my wife's 67 Land Rover
If it'll fit, you might get away with using a pitman arm puller
Going to have another try later this week while replacing all the ball joints on my wife's 67 Land Rover
If it'll fit, you might get away with using a pitman arm puller
'68 Dodge Charger
‘75 Ford Ranchero
'93 Toyota Hilux Surf
YouTube - Double Zero Garage
‘75 Ford Ranchero
'93 Toyota Hilux Surf
YouTube - Double Zero Garage
bottom joint can be done by the suspension alone
undo the nut 1/2 a turn
take off the brake
Hit the eye in the end of the lower arm with hammer
jack under to take the suspension strain
undo
lower down
mind I find that works with the top one as well
it really is best to break that taper first but leave it hanging.
if you can get the track rods off at the outer ends and the pitman arm off you can take the whole cross link off the car
rest each eye on the rear saddle part of your vice or on a curb stone and smack with a hammer
lower shock bolts are also a pain. they press fit into the lower shock eye sleeve
undo nut so it covers end of thread
welly it as hard as you can
this peens over the end of the nut somewhat, which in turn restores its self locking capability
the only balljoint splitter that works is the scissor type with the bolt.
use the bolt only to tension
then
Hit the eye with a hammer.....
I,.e you don't need it if the suspension provide the necessary tension
Dave
undo the nut 1/2 a turn
take off the brake
Hit the eye in the end of the lower arm with hammer
jack under to take the suspension strain
undo
lower down
mind I find that works with the top one as well
it really is best to break that taper first but leave it hanging.
if you can get the track rods off at the outer ends and the pitman arm off you can take the whole cross link off the car
rest each eye on the rear saddle part of your vice or on a curb stone and smack with a hammer
lower shock bolts are also a pain. they press fit into the lower shock eye sleeve
undo nut so it covers end of thread
welly it as hard as you can
this peens over the end of the nut somewhat, which in turn restores its self locking capability
the only balljoint splitter that works is the scissor type with the bolt.
use the bolt only to tension
then
Hit the eye with a hammer.....
I,.e you don't need it if the suspension provide the necessary tension
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Agree with Dave, scissor type with big bolt, then tension it all and whack it with hammer, but makes ure nut is loose on threads first or you won't be bale to undo it once the taper has freed, it will all just spin.
Matt Hollingsworth - Vehicle Registrar
Panther Pink 73 Aussie Charger 265 Hemi 4 spd
Challenger Sam Posey Tribute car
Panther Pink 73 Aussie Charger 265 Hemi 4 spd
Challenger Sam Posey Tribute car
- octanejunkie
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