Rhythmic knocking banging vibration - goes under braking

Garp · Post by **Garp** » Tue Jul 18, 17 5:48 pm

Took the Chally out to let her breathe. All was fine and then out of nowhere on what feels and sounds like drivers side, a knocking sound which just got louder and louder, like a brake pad binding and shaking with too much room. When I brake - noise subsides, but is that braking or speed related ???
I'm guessing this as I recently replaced the calipers and perhaps they take time to bed-in and need tightening up however nothing moves by hand.
Other option I guess is wheel bearing but it came on immediately and isn't something that has started soft and got louder.
Will jack the front up tomorrow and check all is as normal as it looks
Anyone want to confirm or deny my possible hunches - I'd love it.
God a hate a noise other than the engine !!!

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Tue Jul 18, 17 6:06 pm

Loose wheels nuts maybe.

Garp · Post by **Garp** » Tue Jul 18, 17 6:10 pm

Derek wrote:Loose wheels nuts maybe.

Bloody hope not !!!!!

Post by **MattH** » Wed Jul 19, 17 9:49 am

Rear wheel bearings are adjustable on one side. If the lock ring has come loose it could unwind a bit until there is enough movement to make noises which will stop when the brakes are applied as it holds the drum still.
There is meant to be about 1/16th to 1/8th end float (check the numbers) but I had about 5mm, I could quite literally pull the rear wheel in and out by hand when jacked up.

Lock ring is like a large castellated nut with a tag that is under one of the 5 half shaft nuts. All accessible once the drum is off, don't need to remove shoes.

We adjusted James Demon's ones recently to reduce the wheel bearing noise.

Garp · Post by **Garp** » Wed Jul 19, 17 4:23 pm

Who'd a thought it - 4 out of 5 lug nuts loose (could easily turn by hand) drivers side front !!!
Sometimes the simplest answer actually is the best, there I was thinking wheel bearing; brake calipers; tie-rods etc etc !
Went to screwfix and bought a torque wrench - all done to 110ft/lbs all round.
Close-one I guess

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Jul 19, 17 4:44 pm

Yep always worth torquing wheel nuts up to the correct value, not everyone can gauge when tight is tight enough. Another point which you have discovered, it's always wise when you've had a wheel off to check it again once the car has been driven, you'll be surprised how often it has loosened off especially if you tightened it by feel.

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Wed Jul 19, 17 5:18 pm

Garp wrote:
Derek wrote:Loose wheels nuts maybe.
Bloody hope not !!!!!

Thank you Derek............lol,

Glad you got it sorted.

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Wed Jul 19, 17 5:28 pm

Garp · Post by **Garp** » Wed Jul 19, 17 6:17 pm

Derek wrote:
Garp wrote:
Derek wrote:Loose wheels nuts maybe.
Bloody hope not !!!!!

Thank you Derek............lol, Glad you got it sorted.

Derek,
Yes, thanks - just didn't think it'd be as simple as that.
I'd had both front wheels off a month or so ago to do the brakes and although I thought that i'd snugged em up good n tight, moral of the story is - drive and check again.
Cheap fix but could've been expensive had I not limped home with the brake partially applied to stop the knocking (inevitably saving them from coming loose even more).
Phew !

Post by **MattH** » Wed Jul 19, 17 7:23 pm

Great news and an easy fix.
We used to have wheel nuts work loose on the work Volvo V70 T5's, to the extent I found one where thr tyre was rubbing the arch.
Good fun having that knocking noise at high speed!

Volvo eventually suggested a higher torque setting.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu Jul 20, 17 9:49 am

worth checking if the area of the wheel where the shoulder of the nut head clamps is free from paint powder coat etc

plastic based powder coating used to be a nightmare in that respect
wheels would work loose time and time again unless it was properly compacted down or removed.

Dave